Afm - Initial Setup On 1.9 8V

[AndyCrom 64]

Question is as per title really, does anyone know what the initial setup for the AFM, ie 3 full turns from fully closed or is it just a case of setting up the idol with it fully closed then adjust to suit co2 output

[AndyCrom 64]

Ok after a little digging on here I've now found out the following, not so surprisingly, none of which relate to the AFM on my car (0 280 202 090)

 

1.6 (XU5J) 1983-90 - Bosch LE Jetronic, Bosch number 0 280 202 056 (also on 1.6 309)
1.9 (XU9JA) 1986-89 - Bosch LE Jetronic, Bosch number 0 280 202 109 (also on 1.9 309)
1.9 (XU9JA) 1987 onwards - Bosch Motronic1.3, Bosch number 0 280 202 202 (also on 1.9 309 GTi 1.9 405)

 

My question is, what the hell is a 0 280 202 090 from? I see on service box they list 3 types for the 1.9, is it the 3rd one I cannot find on here and can anyone match up the pug part codes with that of the Bosch ones

 

 

AIR METERING DEVICE

 

01 1920 46 NFP XU5J

XU5JA

 

 

1920 70 NFP XU9J1

 

1920 80 NFP XU9JA

 

1920 93 NFP XU9JAZ

Edited March 20, 2013 by AndyCrom

[Anthony 1,000]

0 280 202 090 is listed as a AFM for BMW E30 320 and 323i models.

 

Assuming yours is a non-CAT 1.9 (ie Jetronic) then it should be 0 280 202 109

 

I'm not sure whether there ever was a default setting for the AFM's from the factory, but the chances are that if there was it's not applicable now after 25 years odd of wear and drifting out of calibration. Personally, I tend to leave them where they're currently set and see how it behaves, and tune it by ear if required which has always worked fine and sailed through MOT's.

 

The adjustment only really affects idle mixture and not mixture under load/revs.

[AndyCrom 64]

0 280 202 090 is listed as a AFM for BMW E30 320 and 323i models.

Thats what I found on the tinterweb, but thought "why would anyone use a BMW afm on a Pug"

 

 

Assuming yours is a non-CAT 1.9 (ie Jetronic) then it should be 0 280 202 109

Everything else is the correct code for Jetronic, just not the AFM

 

 

I'm not sure whether there ever was a default setting for the AFM's from the factory, but the chances are that if there was it's not applicable now after 25 years odd of wear and drifting out of calibration. Personally, I tend to leave them where they're currently set and see how it behaves, and tune it by ear if required which has always worked fine and sailed through MOT's.

 

The adjustment only really affects idle mixture and not mixture under load/revs.

Well that's what I'm aiming for, recently the idol after a drive would sit up at 1,500 rpm and other times after the same drive it would stay at 950ish rpm, so with this I went to reset all the settings, ie, position of the TPS, carb screw, throttle stop, all per haynes guide and also the AFM as it never had a tamper cover in since I got it, so wondered if adjusting that would solve the random idol rpm change.

 

(its not a SAD related issue as blocking it off/pinching the pipe makes no change)

Edited March 20, 2013 by AndyCrom

[Anthony 1,000]

Quite a lot of different AFM's are interchangeable (to a point), just calibrated differently.

 

Entirely feasable that someone fitted it because that's all they had lying around, or because they were incorrectly supplied a part and didn't notice. Could also be that the AFM itself is correct, just that someone's replaced the plastic cover at some point with whatever they found in the scrappy that fit.

 

Sticky or worn throttle body can cause the issue you're seeing as well - usual giveaway is a sharp stab at the throttle then "fixes" the idle.

[AndyCrom 64]

Quite a lot of different AFM's are interchangeable (to a point), just calibrated differently.

 

Entirely feasable that someone fitted it because that's all they had lying around, or because they were incorrectly supplied a part and didn't notice. Could also be that the AFM itself is correct, just that someone's replaced the plastic cover at some point with whatever they found in the scrappy that fit.

 

Sticky or worn throttle body can cause the issue you're seeing as well - usual giveaway is a sharp stab at the throttle then "fixes" the idle.

 

I have tried several times to "stab" at the throttle, it drops off for a second then soon rises back up

 

oh and on a side note, I've literally just now had a call back from a very helpful chap at Bosch Automotive UK and just to confirm there is no initial set-up value for the AFM bypass screw on any of their AFM's for the 205/309 etc based units and were shipped to pug as screw out (weak mixture)

 

Which leaves me to wonder, should I set up the idle as follows

 

1. warm engine up (until rad fan kick in) and stop

2. turn AFM air bypass screw fully out (weaken mixture)

3. turn throttle air screw fully in

4. start engine and set throttle stop screw to 600rpm (650rpm on 1.6)

5. turn throttle air screw out until RPM achieves required idle speed (900rpm +/-50rpm)

6. richen the mixture on the AFM by turning the screw in until the desired CO reading is achieved (1% - 2%) which will raise the RPM

7. turn the throttle air screw in until RPM is lowered back down to required idle speed in step 5

8. stop engine and adjust TPS to idol switch stop position (pin 2 and 18 continuity)

 

Can anyone see any problems with setting up the AFM like this?

Edited March 20, 2013 by AndyCrom

[superted 0]

I have tried several times to "stab" at the throttle, it drops off for a second then soon rises back up

 

oh and on a side note, I've literally just now had a call back from a very helpful chap at Bosch Automotive UK and just to confirm there is no initial set-up value for the AFM bypass screw on any of their AFM's for the 205/309 etc based units and were shipped to pug as screw out (weak mixture)

 

Which leaves me to wonder, should I set up the idle as follows

 

1. warm engine up (until rad fan kick in) and stop

2. turn AFM air bypass screw fully out (weaken mixture)

3. turn throttle air screw fully in

4. start engine and set throttle stop screw to 600rpm (650rpm on 1.6)

5. turn throttle air screw out until RPM achieves required idle speed (900rpm +/-50rpm)

6. richen the mixture on the AFM by turning the screw in until the desired CO reading is achieved (1% - 2%) which will raise the RPM

7. turn the throttle air screw in until RPM is lowered back down to required idle speed in step 5

8. stop engine and adjust TPS to idol switch stop position (pin 2 and 18 continuity)

 

Can anyone see any problems with setting up the AFM like this?

 

These are exactly the same symptoms as mine, AFM part number 0280 202 109 as original part, firstly I intend to get hold of a spare AFM and then re-adjust the internal wiper arm. There is a 'how to' on YouTube produced by a guy in the US as essentially the 924/944 uses the same AFM, so externally and internally the same............

[DanteICE 72]

These are exactly the same symptoms as mine.

And mine. Will be trying to fix this some time soon myself.

 

Geoff

[omri617 18]

I have tried several times to "stab" at the throttle, it drops off for a second then soon rises back up

 

oh and on a side note, I've literally just now had a call back from a very helpful chap at Bosch Automotive UK and just to confirm there is no initial set-up value for the AFM bypass screw on any of their AFM's for the 205/309 etc based units and were shipped to pug as screw out (weak mixture)

 

Which leaves me to wonder, should I set up the idle as follows

 

1. warm engine up (until rad fan kick in) and stop

2. turn AFM air bypass screw fully out (weaken mixture)

3. turn throttle air screw fully in

4. start engine and set throttle stop screw to 600rpm (650rpm on 1.6)

5. turn throttle air screw out until RPM achieves required idle speed (900rpm +/-50rpm)

6. richen the mixture on the AFM by turning the screw in until the desired CO reading is achieved (1% - 2%) which will raise the RPM

7. turn the throttle air screw in until RPM is lowered back down to required idle speed in step 5

8. stop engine and adjust TPS to idol switch stop position (pin 2 and 18 continuity)

 

Can anyone see any problems with setting up the AFM like this?

 

Good Morning , any new on the AFM setup ? I got a new ecu and trying to adjust the afm . screw , and dizzy together..

[AndyCrom 64]

1. Ensure your spark plugs and air filter are clean, injectors working as expected and fuel of desired choice (97 oct+) is topped up

2. Clean the throttle body fully and double check the idle screw and passageway is clean, and the same for the stop plate on the throttle arm where it meets the throttle stop screw

3. Warm engine up (until rad fan kick in)

4. When the engine is warm and still running, squeeze one of the SAD pipes, if the engine drops off then your SAD is stuck open and will need fixing first, if all is ok then just stop the engine

5. Turn AFM air bypass screw fully out in and then turn out by 7 full turns

6. Turn throttle air screw fully in

7. Start engine and set throttle stop screw to 600rpm (650rpm on 1.6)

8. Turn throttle air screw out until RPM achieves required idle speed (900rpm +/-50rpm)

9. Blip the throttle a few times

10. Richen the mixture on the AFM by turning the screw by no more than 1.5 turns either direction of in or out (MIN 5.5 turns out to MAX 8.5 turns out, all from fully closed/in) until the desired CO reading is achieved (1% - 2%) which will raise the RPM

11. Blip the throttle a few more times

12. If required, turn the throttle air screw in until the RPM is lowered back down to required idle speed in step 5

13. Stop engine and adjust TPS to idle switch stop position (pin 2 and 18 continuity)