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wayne

206 Timing Belt Failure.

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wayne

Unfortuantly on thurday i suffered a timing belt failure. The belt has stripped off 10-12 teeth. I have warrenty that should cover this but as you may know warrenty companys as sneaky and will try hard to get out of paying, anyway id like to hear some common causes of this type of failure so i can be a bit more prepared for their cone back. To give some more information... Belt failed on 62k the service interval is 80k, after having a look around the area theres no oil contamination, the idler and tensioner both turn freely and are tight. Im concerned the warrenty company will blame this on a slack tensioner but i have no idea how they could check as the belt would have been loose after loosing that many teeth. There is somthing i cant quite put my finger on however, the cam sprockets seem to have a shiny patch accross one half?

20130202_124932.jpg

Edited by wayne

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welshpug

1.4 16v?

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ablister

1.4 16v?

yes

 

 

You haven't mentioned water pump as they are prone to failing

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wayne

I should be ok with the waterpump as "all mechanical parts" are covered. Would a sound water pump spin by hand?

 

Yes 1.4 16v et3j4 effectivly a scaled down tu5j4 with ineffective varariable valve timing.

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ORB

How long have you had the car?

 

Who is the warranty with?

 

I'm a car salesman do I am often on the wrong end of this type of argument!

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wayne

Ive had the car 2 1/2 years i bought a 3 year rac platinum breakdown cover for £850 when i got it.

The warrenty company hasnt yet decided if they are going to cover this, they may come back and say they will cover me and it will all be fine. However from some of the storys ive read on the internet(which i know need to be taken with a pinch of salt) they seem to come say some extrodonary things to get out of paying for timing belt failures. Im just trying to be prepared incase i get told aload of waffle.

Anyone got any ideas on them shiny cam sprockets?

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ORB

The shiney sprockets is just normal. The belt is thinner than the pulleys therefore it runs on one part constantly, causing dirt on the untouched bits.

 

I'm not clued up on the 3 yr policy's, but I know the first question will be to prove servicing, including invoices (these will often state a recommendation of timing belt change in X time/miles)

 

What is in the T&Cs on your warranty about belt failure? It will be mentioned. I hope they don't see it as a 'serviceable item'

 

The trick is, do NOT take no for an answer.

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wayne

Servicing is 20k miles or 2 yrs. Ive had a full service each year at 10k miles complete with stamp and invoice.

As for the belt its a 80k or 10 year change, failed at 62k 8 years old.

The warrenty states it coveres "timing belts- as long as there is no sign of contamination and that it has been changed in accordance with the manufacturers specified intervals.

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ORB

your fine then by the looks of it.

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Slo

Has it got antifreeze in the coolant?

 

This happened to me a week before christmas, :angry:

 

Turned out to be frozen water pump = turn engine over = crank pulls belt over stationary pump = ripped off teeth = weak spot = belt snaps very soon.

 

Sound familiar?

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wayne

Nope the car was moving at a steady 40mph, the belt didnt snap either.

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ablister

Have you checked the water pump though? There should be very minimal play in bearing. Have you got a picture of the broken belt?

As you said the cam pulleys look really shiney on the outer half, as though it has slipped off, is there any rubbing marks on the timing belt cover(s)?

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Paul_13

Does look like the belt was riding off due to the shiny outer edge of pulley.

 

Ditto foment above, check the water pump

Edited by Paul_13

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wayne

No more pictures as the garage has the car for warrenty purposes, i didnt check the water pump, would it turn by hand if it was ok?

As slo has mentioned the belt is thinner than the cam sprockets causing the shiney patch.

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Slo
Nope the car was moving at a steady 40mph, the belt didnt snap either.
My belt didnt snap either. What happens is the pump shreds the teeth off the belt then as the engine is running the belt slips its position on the teeth=valve piston battles. Not good! Edited by Slo

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wayne

Well i will definatly have that waterpump checked if they come back with a daft excuse.

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DamirGTI

Also noticed .. looks to me like the belt slipped off the pulleys by riding sideways or leaning towards the outsides ..

 

Id check the tensioner and idler bearing rollers , if there's any play on them could be that ..

 

D B)

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tartanbloke

Afternoon,

 

Just looking to clarify something here. If the servicing is every 2 years or 20,000 miles, then the timiming belt change will be at 8 years or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

 

If your vehicle is over the 8 year period from date of first registration, they will say that you have not undertaken the servicing requirments in accordance with the manufactures recomendations. Therefore, the argument will be that the failure was preventable.

 

Have you obtained a copy of the maintenance check sheet to confirm the recommended interval age/mileage.

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wayne

Its 80k or 10 years. Checked the idler or tensioner no play and was tight.

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Sandy

I'd be taking the cam covers off to look and see if all the valves/rockers are intact, if it's stripped teeth, it's a good bet that a cam jammed.

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Alan_M

Bringing this back from the dead, are there any hidden nasties with renewing the cambelt on these 1.4 16v engines?

 

Or is it straight forward?

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Slo

I would imagine it to be the same as any other engine "always" change the waterpump idle pulley and tensioner when you change the belt and dont be tight on the antifreeze as a frozen waterpump caused this problem for me

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Alan_M

I would imagine it to be the same as any other engine "always" change the waterpump idle pulley and tensioner when you change the belt and dont be tight on the antifreeze as a frozen waterpump caused this problem for me

 

Just wondering as it's got VVT. They've always needed special tools from previous experiences.

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ablister

Not really any special tools, the pin for locking the inlet VVT cam is long + thin and the exhaust is just a std size (i forget the sizes). Flywheel is locked as per TU engine: hole through block beside oil filter. To tension belt, just align the arrow with the notch on tensioner pulley. It's not 'that' bad to do but as said, replace water pump + tensioner/roller.

 

I'm sure you'll get a locking pin set from ebay or similar

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