1.9 Cti Wont Start

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

That shouldn't happen imo, its a plastic bodied sensor so they can't rust together.

 

Try to gentley twist the base of the CAS where it sits on the gearbox casing lug with a suitable sized spanner but first clean round the CAS hole inside of the box & spray with some penetrating fluid, wd40 isn't the best at this but should get it started.

 

g

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Bringing this old thread up to date, having a lazy afternoon today I thought i would pull the head off to see what actually happened. And to my surprise the cam belt and tensioner were fine, I thought it had snapped.

 

Carried on removing everything then got to the camshaft pulley bolt and braced myself with the cracker bar while a mate hugged the engine and ...........nothing there, wasn't even nipped up.

 

On removal it was pretty obvious that the cam had seized up because the woodruff key has completely sheared off and the belt has been spinning it round on the starter.

 

The cam was jammed solid so took all the bearing caps off and number 2 from flywheel end is all chewed up inside exactly as it is in this post here also the cam bearing is pretty chewed up too so head and cam are now scrap.

 

Then i removed the head expecting to see bent valves and while there were light marks on the pistons a water test shows that they are all closed so none are bent.

 

Not that it matters now as I don't need it anymore. Just curious what could have caused this as all the other bearings were pretty well caked in oil when I removed the bearing caps.

[DamirGTI 327]

Might be the small filter which is inside the head in the main oil feed passage .

 

Often , when you get the head skimmed , if you do not remove the filter by yourself prior to skimming chances are that the machinist will (by not knowing that there's an filter in the oil passage ) leave it inside during the skimming process .

 

Usually what happens is , the metal shavings will clog up the filter and if not cleaned (just washing the head wont clean it - need to pull the filter out and clean it) after the skimming it'll reduce the oil feed up to the head .. and from time smaller particles of metal shavings will loosen off the filter and will travel with the oil up inside the spray bar and clog it as well thus creating wear on camshaft and cam bearings/caps .

 

D

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Right I didn't know there was a filter in the head I didn't come across one when i inspected it. All the oilways were spotless I checked and checked and checked before i built it back up. Besides there was plenty of oil in the top when i took the cam cover off. Do you think it might be possible to over tighten the bearing caps down to the degree that oil cant physically pass through it and the cam shaft? My gut feeling is that is what happened.

[DamirGTI 327]

Id say yes - if over-tightening the cam cap bolts to a greater degree then specified , sooner or later it'll damage the camshaft/cam bearing slide surfaces or worse still lock/size the camshaft upon few min. of running .

 

Camshafts and valve train are one of the most stressed part in the engine .

 

Anyways , oil wise .. oil pressure quality for proper engine lubrication is all about engine metal part clearances , bearing clearances particularly .. not the oil pump .

 

I'll try to dig a photo of that oil filter . Every singe one which i took out from spare bought heads had aluminum shavings/deposits (some less , some more) blocking the filter mesh from previous skimming jobs .

 

D

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

No need I've found one on here D looks like you've hit the nail, on the head it ran for about a minute and half fine just idling then started making noise like a large nut makes on very rusty thread followed by a seized/snapping sound and stopped with a thump which must have been the pistons hitting the valves and the cam woodruff key gave up the ghost. Oh well might as well bin it now then thanks for the input Damir

 

Cheers

Andy

[DamirGTI 327]

Cod be that , if you've "over done" the caps .

 

How much torque did you use on the bearing cap bolts ? .. tightening "pattern" is also important , often same as head bolts tightening from the center outwards in circular motion (as it should be on 8v Xu's) or diagonally , though dependent's on the engine layout .. tightening pattern need's to be followed as per specification as well as torque spec for bolt on engine parts .

 

D

Edited September 8, 2013 by DamirGTI

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

I'll give you an alternative possibility.

 

The main crank sprocket bolt was not tight, on 1900 engines the oil pump is driven by the friction of the lower pulley clamping against the oil pump drive, there is no keyway.

 

Thus the top was starved of oil to where it was needed, hence the cam picked up and seized, the rest is history.