[misc_work] Rodionski's 405 Mi16

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Would anyone be interested in my build thread here? I am still questioning the effort as it will take twice as much typing)))

[calvinhorse 870]

yes just put the good bits on, shouldn't take long! joke!

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

what do you deem to be the good bits then?

[calvinhorse 870]

you tell me, suspension setup, anything that helps you win races

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Current specs:

 

free flowing air filter

Spoox silicone oil hoses

BakerBM pre-production silicone water hoses (test-fit and test-run in progress)

Constella sump baffle system

6 bar spring, sprocket, chain

fat silicone HT leads

peter taylor ECU chip

Grp N battery kill switch

Grp N ignition, starter, fuel pump switch panel

Grp N engine and gearbox mounts

Grp A lower fork bush

Grp N gear rods

UNP bucket seat

Toora 4-point harness

All carpets and sound proofing removed

Mechanical oil temp and pressure gauges, etc.

Stage 1 cams

45mm throttle bodies with variable inlet length (ECU controlled), custom intake manifold, 8 fuel injectors.

0.7mm head gasket

Aftermarket ECU

Battery moved to trunk

Front 406 brembos

Rear stock

EBC Yellowstuff all round

Hydraulic handbrake with custom lever

Custom gear shifter

GAZ GGA all round, 550lb front coilovers with helper springs

Rear Peugeot Partner torsion bars and ARB

Parada Spec 2 semislicks

Edited June 2, 2011 by rodionski

[chris adams 0]

any dyno graphs to follow ?

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

No, not really. Frankly I don't think it's important) Other than bragging about it)

[chris adams 0]

i was intrested in how the upgrades differ from the standard mi setup.

Edited June 3, 2011 by mi8 turbo

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Well, the stage 1 cams are very mild.

I would think that the engine should give about 195-205 hp running on 98 octane. Maybe a bit more.

 

[petert1345402284 0]

Google translator is fine!

 

"Seeing a more congenial staff members of the forum, decided to immediately conduct bortovik (after on pyzheforume got phrases like "oh dear" "oh why do you", "th machine tortured master" and so on.

 

Thus, we have an old Korchik 1987.

 

Of the improvements: patched chip, modified intake, "nulevig" linzovanaya optics, increased GTZ and vacuum antiotlivayka, modified oil pump. Oh yeah, understated springs Aybah, ammonium Kayaba gas in a circle, still strut smile.gif)))

 

In the summer plan to add the brakes - 4 piston brembo under 305h28mm discs and 16 "wheels in front and either 2 or 4-piston monoblock rear in a ventilated pancakes.

 

Instead, the injector vkinem twin 45mm Weber and "pomirkovanі" sportvaly a head. SI rose from 10.4 to 11.5.

Pose additional. oil cooler and thermostat.

 

Plans of many, as the implementation will add foty."

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Haha, that's hilarious)) "ventilated pancakes" is a true winner)))))

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Was trying to install the front coil-overs over the weekend.

They did not fit to the hubs as they appear to be thicker than stock items and TA Technix coil-overs as well.

I tried every possible way except that I could not remove the hubs from the car - some stupid mechanic has tightened the hub bearing nut so much that i could not undo it for the life of me.

 

So I had to reassemble the suspension using TA Technix coil-overs and give up the try this time.

 

I am looking to purchase some spare hubs (Ph2, plus front arms to fit) - maybe i could fit the coil-overs to the hubs off the car and then try fitting them already assembled.

 

Also, all stock cups and washers had to be drilled to accommodate the thicker top coil-over threads. Is that normal?

 

Anyhow, that was not a very nice surprise, especially seeing that other guys seemed to fit them without commenting on any fitting issues.

 

Any comments on the above would be very welcome!

 

I will be giving it a second try this coming week-end. Hopefully, successful.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

I've checked all measurements for stock fronts and GAZ GGAs i received now. They are as follows:

 

Stock and TA Technix:

 

Top thread diameter: 13.8mm

Bottom of damper for entry into the hub: 51mm

 

GAZ:

 

Top thread diameter: 14.8mm

Bottom of damper for entry into the hub: ranges from 51.8mm to 52mm on both coilovers (they both are a bit oval, hence the range of 51.8 to 52mm, and also the diameter goes from 51.8mm at bottom edge of damper to 52mm at the top of where the "stop" collar is welded)

 

Now in discussions with Warren on how to proceed with this.

 

I can't force them in, I have tried every possible way. It took about half a day of fiddling to try and fit them. At stock position the hubs have about 6mm gap in the slot, while i have prized them open by a good 10mm (which is forbidden by the workshop manual by the way) and they would still not accommodate the coil-overs - they do not open proportionately at such load, they open at the part with the slot only, turning into an oval shape.

I was also advised that the hubs are prone to crack at excessive loads, and i fear that another 1mm of diameter will strain the hubs at maximum loads during racing (especially given that those are 23-old hubs and they must have a fair bit of fatigue).

 

If we can't find a solution, I will try to find a local shop to machine the 1mm off and maybe try to apply some anti-corrosion coating to the machined surface as the nickel plating will be then gone.

 

Anyway, that's a dissapointment, as after two rounds of Ukrainian stupid customs clearance procedures, finally received and now unable to fit them.

 

[cammmy 1]

^I had to enlarge the holes in the top hat to mount the struts. The bottom fit without issue though.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

the top cups and washers are no problem - i already enlarged those. but the bottoms are a problem.

i've been consulting with some people from different peugeot workshops and so far all of them say that it will be a no go to force the 52mm into stock hubs.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Just received a reply from GAZ.

 

They admit that their drawings indicate 51mm as the correct diameter.

However their position is that I should simply push harder to make the damper slide into the hub.

 

A bit of a dissapointing approach as far as I am concerned.

 

Especially after all the certification and customs riddles i had to go through.

 

 

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Scheduled for Saturday is a visit to a racing workshop for assessment of shell seam welding, strengthening and a roll cage build.

[cammmy 1]

Piccies of the car please

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Here's a link to some pictures)

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

The problem with GAZ fronts hopefully solved now.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Test fitted some bigger rims - 16" 7.5J ET24 on racing slick tires - 210/575 R16

 

Surprisingly there were no clearance issues at the back, even with the racing slick 210mm wide and ET24.

 

However, the tire will rub against the coilover spring at the front. So it will either be spacers, or a different tire - about 195/45 r16.

 

 

[petert1345402284 0]

The ET is way wrong for that width. You need around 5mm, or maybe even less.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Yes Peter, if i get around to purchasing those, i will be thinking about 15-20mm spacers and studs conversion.

[welshpug 1,622]

whats the angle of the wishbone like at that ride height and how much travel have you got left?

 

 

just curious as you may be introducing a lot of bump steer having it that low...

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

so far i think that having the car that low is not right. mainly because of the angles of the driveshafts. i don't get much bump steer however.

that's not the lowest position though, i have about 25mm of thread left on the 306 coilovers. GAZ coilovers will not have that much thread and i don't see a problem there, as road clearance in that position will be close to zero. moreover, the rear beam will not adjust that much to balance out the front. yet more, the rear dampers will lock up and will sit on bump stops (GAZ rears) and there's a good chance of the piston assembly puncturing the gas cell.

 

i can make some pictures in the lowest position just for the heck of it.

 

oh and there's another problem. the thicker water hose going from the radiator to the 3-way union at the back of the block will routinely sit on the right driveshaft.

 

so lowest ride is for show, but there should be about 25-30mm of thread below the spring ring locks for more or less normal use.