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cammmy

[trackday_prep] 4bie Motorsport Build

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cammmy

It has arrived

 

p1070358.jpg

 

p1070359.jpg

 

p1070360s.jpg

 

p1070361v.jpg

 

p1070362s.jpg

 

Will begin the process of prepping this shell

 

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calvinhorse

man that looks good! crack on buddy!

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cammmy

Didn't do much on it yesterday (other than give it a wash) as I didn't have anyone to help push it into the shed (need about 3 people due to the slope/lip on the entrance).

 

Spent that time giving the BX a real good polish. Used rubbing compound, then clay bar, then turtle wax. Started at about 2:30 and this was the result when I finished at about 10:15

 

p1070366.jpg

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KRISKARRERA

Looks very tidy and dent free. My car looks shiny but also like someone chucked big stones at it .

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cammmy

It's got a few dings but pretty good considering it's older than I am.

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DRTDVL1345402287
Friend had the Mi16x4 motor in his 205 dyno'd. Power curve was still going up when it hit the limiter. He doesn't know if his has been worked though.

 

Is there any point in going to the red on a 4bie? I don't feel the power drop off but I've made a couple of tweaks that help in the higher revs.

I suspect it's due to the shortened intake moving the powerband, rev limits 7,500 at the moment... It's running one Peter's chips

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rodionski
This left the car sitting WAY to high, so I got some GAZ GGA Gold's for the front (adjusting the hight at the rear to match). This allowed me to get it a bit lower B)

 

p1060530n.jpg

 

Could you please advise on how you've managed to fit the coilovers to stock top mount assembly?

I see that you're using some black pans on top of original gaz blue spring pans?

Would you be able to use the same set up with an earlier top mount assembly where the top buffer is separate from the large washer (the reason being to keep my Group N top buffers)

 

Where did you get the needed parts? Many thanks!

 

 

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welshpug

off the shelf GAZ top spring pan.

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rodionski

I received feedback from a friend of mine who said that normally a coilover kit will include the adapter pans which allow fitting of the stock top mount assembly.

 

Is that what you refer to, Welshpug?

 

thanks

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cammmy

I wanted the eccentric mounts but GAZ couldn't do them for the 405 at the time (still can't). Those are the standard top mounts from a 405 diesel from the local scrapper. Will be getting eccentrics when I can.

 

The black pans came with the struts

 

Am getting these

 

Picture001.jpg

 

They are 15"x6.5" ET16. If they don't fit the 4bie they are going on the BX (offset should be about right for that).

 

8.5kg each bare. Hopefully should get rid of some unsprung weight if they fit on the 4bie.

 

Going to clean 'em up and get them done in arctic white or similar B)

Edited by cammmy

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welshpug

They'll fit fine on the 405, not any lighter than the stock wheels but the extra width is helpful, as is the higher offset as you'll have more brake clearance.

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cammmy

No lighter? Thought Mi rims are about 9.3-9.5 each?

Edited by cammmy

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DRTDVL1345402287

I measured my mi16 wheels at 9.8 kg with no rubber on them.

 

Where did you get those?

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cammmy

Dude from FF got 'em for his 106. Couldn't use them for some reason, can't remember if it was the width or the offset or something.

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wesly

iff you want realy light rims you should search for citroen C5 aluminium rims like these

i use them on my racer, 4,5 kilos without tyre ;) but there not that pritty...

 

60779578.png

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cammmy

Yeah, I heard they are really light.

 

I put them on the BX in the end anyway. I think the car is now 1000% better

 

p1070392hs.jpg

 

p1070393.jpg

 

Will probably go with the original plan of Compomotive MO's for the pug

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cammmy

Righto, had a crack at the new 4bie. only managed to get work done on it on Sunday (as I was getting a mates car and the Citroen sorted on sat).

 

Just need to get some A/C components unbolted from the front panel. After that the front of the car will be off and I can start work on dropping the sub-frame.

 

Will get some pics next weekend

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cammmy

Should be ready to drop everything soon.

 

p1070427i.jpg

 

p1070424p.jpg

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cammmy

p1070547b.jpg

 

p1070548m.jpg

 

p1070549c.jpg

 

p1070550m.jpg

 

p1070552r.jpg

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cammmy

The above pic is the broken timing belt. I'm expecting to find a lot of smashed valves when I get the head off.

 

The previous owner must have been gutted. Looks like it's been pretty well looked after otherwise.

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KRISKARRERA

Hehe look at you there all greasy with ya chains, just as well I don't bat for the other side :lol:

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cammmy

Ha. Has been likened on another forum to a particular type of adult movie mostly associated with underground rooms in Germany :lol:

 

I maintain that photo was taken after the filming :P

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cammmy

Just had a crack at splitting the motor from everything else. Reckon I should have it on the stand and ready to strip for inspection this weekend.

 

I'm hoping/praying that the t/fer case is mounted how it looks like it's mounted. I.e bolted to the gearbox at one end and to the water distribution block behind the motor at the other end. Not bolted to the engine somewhere that only quantum physics can get you.

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AlexN
Just had a crack at splitting the motor from everything else. Reckon I should have it on the stand and ready to strip for inspection this weekend.

 

I'm hoping/praying that the t/fer case is mounted how it looks like it's mounted. I.e bolted to the gearbox at one end and to the water distribution block behind the motor at the other end. Not bolted to the engine somewhere that only quantum physics can get you.

Getting the transfer box off is pretty straight forward, like you say it is bolted to the gearbox where it is obvious and also the other end of the block. There is also a metal bracket on the top of the box bolted to the block. I had real fun the first time I stripped the gearbox and and transfer box out of my car as the last of the bell housing bolts for the gearbox is threaded into the bell housing rather than the block. The only way to access this bolt head is to first remove the transfer box!

 

At least with the engine out it should be a lot easier than lying under a car with water pouring down your neck in the middle of winter :lol:

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cammmy

So the t/fer case needs to come off before the g/box? Do I need to drain it first?

 

Yeah, I have a shed and we are coming into summer here.

 

Also, update your thread plz :D

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