Idle Problem

[Feeble 0]

I've got a big problem with my idle at the moment, and am gonna try and give as much detail as possible in the hope that I might be able to sort it out myself, with some of your good advice!

 

Right, when I start the car up, it will run fine for about two minutes. I assume this is how long it runs for before the automatic choke stops working...

 

After the two minutes is up, the revs drop real low, but they always seem to just about keep the car running, before I have moved it. When I flick the accelerator and the revs drop back off, the engine cuts out.

 

When I drive it, it is fine apart from when I am changing down gears or coming to a complete stop. I need to keep my foot on both the accelerator and brake pedal when I am stuck in traffic to keep it from cutting out.

 

Whenever it does cut out though, it will always start back up. It's normally ok for about a minute or so after restarting, but it will go back to being the same shortly after.

 

If anyone has any quick fix ideas I'll be more than happy to give them a try!

 

Thanks

[Jer309GTi 3]

Sounds like the idle is too low, but I don't know if you can adjust it on the Mi as I'm used to the 8v injection on 205/309's. For a quick fix, you could try giving the throttle body a good clean up inside with carb cleaner and check there are no air leaks on the induction system.

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

I assume this is how long it runs for before the automatic choke stops working...

There is no "choke" on the Mi16, just longer injector pulse duration to give more fuel.

I hate these problems because there can be several causes and until one knows the cause it's just lots of shots in the dark.

First thing I would do is clean the throttle body and make sure it's adjusted correctly.

If the throttlebody plates are gummed up with crap and/or have been maladjusted the engine will cut out. This is because the idle speed control valve is unable to open enough to compensate for a throttle body that is not getting much air through. And therefore cannot maintain 850rpm. The throttle plates need to be closed as much as possible without actually catching on the casing of the throttle body. There's a pug workshop guide somewhere that shows how to do this, got it on my pc but I'm not gona drag that up at nearly 2am when I'm tired lol.

Then there's the Throttle position switch adjustment - assuming that the TPS is not faulty. Basically you loosen the TPS adjustment screws and hold the throttle plate to keep it from moving, while u rotate the TPS clockwise, and then counter clockwise until a click is heard. Continue rotating until it stops but do not cause the throttle plate to move. Secure the screws.

Proper adjustment is obtained when you open the throttle plate and insert a feeler gauge at the throttle stop screw:

When you close the throttle against a .45mm feeler gauge, no "click" is heard from the TPS

When you close the throttle against a .15mm feeler gauge, a "click" is heard.

But what gets me is it cuts out when engine gets warm only - as if the coolant temp sensor is thinking the engine is hotter than it really is. YET, if will restart and idle ok for a minute even when the engine is warm.

Wish you were round the block, I'd have this s*ite sorted in no time.

[Haze 0]

I had the same thing happen to me, slightly different

 

I had checked the air filter, but left the Air flow meter connector off...

 

idled like crap and stalled most of the time unless i feathered the acc pedal.

 

would start back up fine though, for a minute....

 

maybe the connector needs cleaning, renewing or your air flow meter could be faulty......

 

just another avenue to consider