My Mi16x4

[Tej 0]

Hi, i was hoping someone will be able to help me with a few probs on my mi16x4

 

firstly theres the speedo cable. I know it comes in 3 parts. i got hold of the part that runs from the instrument panel down. when i connected it the prob was still there. im now not sure if it is the 2nd part of the cable that runs from the middle point down to the bit which connects on to the end, or that end bit itself. Any ideas how i can remove the bit on the end seeing as though i've read on the forum that this is the commonest fault when the cables play up.

 

the more pressing problem is last week i tried to start it up. it kept turning until after about 10 seconds it started grudingly. idled an ran like a dream. then the same thing happend a few more times but each time it started just about. yesterday the engine kept turning but it did not start. in the end it stopped turning.

It sounded as though the battery dies but i checked it and it was fully charged. it turned for a few more seconds and went dead again. tried jump start but that didnt work. im at a loss as to what it is. in my haist to fix it i ordered a new ignition module and ignition coil.

 

i havent fitted them yet but just wanted to know if anyone can help?

 

any input would be appreachiated. Im based in west london so if u know any garages heres who know their peugeots let me know please.

 

tej

[Guest badboyracer3500]

sounds to me to be starter motor, slugish at first then sticks and wont turn over. thats how mine is at the moment. i just tap mine with a hammer and it works.

its like this for 2-3 weeks then fine for mths. mad really as its been this way for probably 3 yrs, should really change it but it still works so will do it when i fit new engine.

Gavin.

[AlexN 7]

If your drive pinion in the transfer box is knackered you'll need to replace it. The pinion can be removed pretty easily (at least with the transfer box out of the car!) by pulling out the rubber bung and then removing the screw holding the plastic cap on. This will allow you to pull out the pinion. If the teeth are knackered then you need a new one (i have one btw, bought it for a stupid amount then found it wasn't the problem). They can't be found easily now. The problem with my speedo was where it connected to the dials, just a poor connection, but as you have replaced that it doesn't sound like yours will be so straight forward to fix! The curved metal connection is probably unlikely to be the cause, remove it and check that the internals still rotate. If you need pictures of how to remove the pinion i can try and take some for you. Hope this helps.

[Tej 0]

sounds to me to be starter motor, slugish at first then sticks and wont turn over. thats how mine is at the moment. i just tap mine with a hammer and it works.

its like this for 2-3 weeks then fine for mths. mad really as its been this way for probably 3 yrs, should really change it but it still works so will do it when i fit new engine.

Gavin.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

hi, thanks for reply. Ive had the starter motor re-coned so its not that. i thought that was causing the non-starts but its not apparently. someone suggested it may be a sticky solenoid [some part on the key barrel itself] but that wont explain why the car goes dead after a few turns [despite the battery being charged.

 

Hence why i spent £ on the ignition coil and module. I hope it is one of them. ill be at a loss if not!

 

Do you know the function of the ignition module? and can a dodgy one affect the car starting up? its definately an ignition problem. once it does start it idles and runs fine, its just the initial 10+ secs it take to fire up!

 

the starter motor is a nightmare to get too if i want to check it. How can i give it a bang with a hammer to check it without taking it out??

 

tej

[Tej 0]

If your drive pinion in the transfer box is knackered you'll need to replace it.  The pinion  can be removed pretty easily (at least with the transfer box out of the car!) by pulling out the rubber bung and then removing the screw holding the plastic cap on.  This will allow you to pull out the pinion.  If the teeth are knackered then you need a new one (i have one btw, bought it for a stupid amount then found it wasn't the problem).  They can't be found easily now.  The problem with my speedo was where it connected to the dials, just a poor connection, but as you have replaced that it doesn't sound like yours will be so straight forward to fix! The curved metal connection is probably unlikely to be the cause, remove it and check that the internals still rotate. If you need pictures of how to remove the pinion i can try and take some for you.  Hope this helps.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

hi, thanks for the reply.

 

I dont understand how a bit in the transfer box can affect the car starting? surely the transfer box only relates to any problems with the car actually moving in stread of starting??

[AlexN 7]

Sorry guess I didn't make myself clear, its the speedo problem I was describing how to fix not the starting problems. There is a thread on Aussiefrogs describing how to fix a starter motor problem Aussiefrogs starter relay and another thread here Aussiefrogs starter motor (i've go the same issue and am going to try to wire in the relay as described). This might help but your symptoms don't match as your not getting dead clicks.

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

According to Miles fitting a later XU starter motor sorts these problems. It's a better design or something, smaller too.

[Tej 0]

cheers Alex,

 

I had the starter motor re-conditioned a month ago so it is highly unlikely to be that. The solinoid may be the bit thats causing the problem or the ignition switch itself.

 

how can i get to test the current in the wire that goes from the swtich to solinoid? if its less than 12v then i know to replace it. The relay job sounds arkward! any simple ways to connect that? whats this i hear about a connecter for the relay to the solonoid near the LH headlight??????

[Tej 0]

If your drive pinion in the transfer box is knackered you'll need to replace it.  The pinion  can be removed pretty easily (at least with the transfer box out of the car!) by pulling out the rubber bung and then removing the screw holding the plastic cap on.  This will allow you to pull out the pinion.  If the teeth are knackered then you need a new one (i have one btw, bought it for a stupid amount then found it wasn't the problem).  They can't be found easily now.  The problem with my speedo was where it connected to the dials, just a poor connection, but as you have replaced that it doesn't sound like yours will be so straight forward to fix! The curved metal connection is probably unlikely to be the cause, remove it and check that the internals still rotate. If you need pictures of how to remove the pinion i can try and take some for you.  Hope this helps.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Alex the pics on the removal of pinion will be a great help if you could please.

 

cheers

[petert1345402284 0]

how can i get to test the current in the wire that goes from the swtich to solinoid? if its less than 12v then i know to replace it. The relay job sounds arkward! any simple ways to connect that? whats this i hear about a connecter for the relay to the solonoid near the LH headlight??????

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

The problem is the ignition switch contacts. They wear over time and can longer supply enough CURRENT to engage the starter solenoid. The cure is thus to install a relay behind the LH headlight, underneath the air filter, which supplies 12V directly from the battery to the solenoid. The ignition switch will still be capable of energising a relay.

 

This location is the last connection for the wire to the starter. There's three connectors there. A large black, a large brown and a small 2 pin brown. The two pin brown is the one you're looking for.

 

Cut the large wire before the connector and use it to energise the relay. Grab 12V from the distribution block bolted to the guard and you're away!

[Tej 0]

If your drive pinion in the transfer box is knackered you'll need to replace it.  The pinion  can be removed pretty easily (at least with the transfer box out of the car!) by pulling out the rubber bung and then removing the screw holding the plastic cap on.  This will allow you to pull out the pinion.  If the teeth are knackered then you need a new one (i have one btw, bought it for a stupid amount then found it wasn't the problem).  They can't be found easily now.  The problem with my speedo was where it connected to the dials, just a poor connection, but as you have replaced that it doesn't sound like yours will be so straight forward to fix! The curved metal connection is probably unlikely to be the cause, remove it and check that the internals still rotate. If you need pictures of how to remove the pinion i can try and take some for you.  Hope this helps.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

how much are you looking for the pinion? if your willing to seel it that is!?