205 Gearbox Mount Cradle - Same As 306?

[rikky 37]

i've got my 205 completely stripped now to a bare shell. i've come across numerous rusty bolts which have snapped and had to be drilled out or heated massively, but also when i removed the gearbox mount, the captive threads on the 2x gearbox mounts snapped off when undoing them.

 

so this whole gearbox mount 'cradle' will need replacing (or the threads drilling out and a new captive bolt welding in there for when i come to refit the engine)

 

my query = is this part the same dimensions etc as a 306? i've only got a photo of the 306 one from when i rebuilt it:

 

 

i'm hoping it's usable, as it'd let me run a 306 'cover' then (which is all one piece on the 205, plus it looks like on the top of the 205 cradle i'll need to grind the left rear corner off to create a flat surface)

 

thoughts? anyone done it?

 

if anyone's got a 306 one to hand, some measurements would be appreciated - namely the distances between the bolts on the chassis side, and the thickness of it at the chassis side aswell - 205 one is approx 25mm when turned upside down

Edited July 28, 2012 by rikky

[welshpug 1,623]

it is different as is the rubber mounting, easy enough to repair it though as it does unbolt like the 306.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Word of warning. When you got the 205 mount to use a 306 battery box on top you CANT use the 'cover' from the 306 which the battery box fixes to. Been there done that. It makes the box sit high and the bonnet won't shut.

 

You'll need to grind that bit off to make the 205 mount flat and drill a couple of holes for your battery box to mount through. I used existing holes in the battery box. Make sure you do this as one of the last jobs. The air filter if coming off the inlet is very tight and you don't want the ECU end of the box forced against the header tank.

 

It's a bit of a pain getting nuts under the battery box and tray when you find the ideal location. I managed to use two nuts with the washer formed into it - I forget the trade name. Anyway, this allowed me to pop it in a ring spanner and direct it through the mount and then when I could see the nut through the hole in the battery box - fire a bolt in. You won't get your hands in otherwise as the gearbox will be up high - unless you have 3 yr olds hands.

 

The way I have thought about combatting this tiny hassle is to get a hole cutter to the middle of the battery box so you can fit the mount and box in one go, then lift the engine up when you fit it and use the larger hole to get the top gearbox mounting tightened. Be the guinea pig.

 

You'll also find that it's necessary to have the mount off when fitting the '6 engine and then lowering it down enough to get the 2 13s in under the mount.

 

I have pics showing how I did it if it helps

[rikky 37]

the battery is going in the boot, have had a rethink. i wanted to do that anyway. so now i'm probably going to just cut this thing up or use a standard 306 one with a 306 box mount and see if it fits. going to do some measuring. and if it doesn't, i'll shotblast this one and redrill the snapped studs out

 

i had to remove the mount to get the standard gti engine out so i figured it'd be easier without the cradle there when putting the '6 lump back in. but i am thinking about just having the car on the 4-posters and sending the engine upwards instead as it's fairly tight anyway

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Yeah it's a fairly tight fit but easy to get in really.

 

You'll get the technique as soon as you try and do it, but for reference I make sure the cambelt cover end is tight in against the drivers side headlight panel as it will go and then the gearbox goes down past the chassis leg fine. Then when halfway down to so spin it so the master cylinder goes between the cambelt cover and cam cover without forcing against anything. Be wary of the L gear linkage bracket and if you leave the rear engine mount fork on the subframe make sure it slots in to that an doesn't force against and slide beside it. I personally leave the top left mount arm off so I don't have to worry about that knocking the cradle if doing it alone.

 

I must have had mine in and out about a dozen times when I had to reangle my manifold to meet the downpipe I bought already reangled to whatever angle.

 

Edited July 28, 2012 by chipstick

[EZ Tutty 7 1 Cars]

Just chop up your original mounting bracket, i did mine and welded a few bits in for strength/looks and gave it a lick of paint... not my best paint job tho tbh.

 

 

Also originally put my VTS engine in from underneath... however after removing it a few times for adjusting the manifold and moving the master cylinder i found it easier to just drill out the spot welds on the cross piece (that the rad sits on) and just roll the engine into place on a frame with some castors, keeping the car on the ground. Then i'll either bolt or weld the original cross piece back in... or make a new stronger cross piece (modified to drop the radiator a couple of inches whilst i'm at it)

Edited July 29, 2012 by EZ Tutty