Tempreture Gauge

[dave205 19]

Im concerned my 2.0 8v turbo engine is running to hot, ive fitted a new 82 degree thermostat, but the needle on the gauge raise's to judt over the half way line with in the first 1 mile of driving, admitadly i was being a little keen. I havent yet had time to take it for a proper long run to see what happens, but when i returned home it sat and ran for a further 10 mins and didnt seem to increase much more.

 

Any ideas? Or i simply over worrying?

[DamirGTI 327]

Looks like you have high temp. grade thermo switch for the cooling fan .. something like 97-92C ...

 

Fit lower grade switch , such as 95-85 or 87-77C rated .

 

Damir

[welshpug 1,626]

half way sounds fine, have search for a pic of the gauge with the numbers, you'd be surprised just how far up they go before the fan comes on.

[dave205 19]

Looks like you have high temp. grade thermo switch for the cooling fan .. something like 97-92C ...

 

Fit lower grade switch , such as 95-85 or 87-77C rated .

 

Damir

 

Now you've mentioned that im sure the fan switch i have is a 97-92c one, it was the one fitted to my dturbo before i broke it for spares. I never once saw the fans run on that car, i even changed the switch to ensure they worked.

 

What cars had the temp switch? I have a 1.1 radiator at home, will that a low temp switch? Problem is its a 2 pin not a 3 pin.

 

 

[dave205 19]

half way sounds fine, have search for a pic of the gauge with the numbers, you'd be surprised just how far up they go before the fan comes on.

 

The problem is after that run i undid the rad cap and it blew a bit of water out. I then revved it up and it pushed water out of the header tank, is this normal?

 

When the engines running and you remove the bleed screw on the stat housing nothing comes out, it actually draws air in. Then you turn the engine off and you get water. Ive tried bleeding it several times with no luck, ive changed that stat three times and the only way to stop it is remove the thermostat all together.

 

Surely something is wrong somewere?

[DamirGTI 327]

Dunno which temp grade thermo switch will 1.1 have .. if it's still factory switch could be the same one thou (a hot one ..)

 

Anyways , buy an new thermo switch of lower temp. grade (so either of the two 95-85C or 87-77C ... since it's a turbocharged engine id chose the later one ..) they're inexpensive part and it's best to have a new one rather than second hand .

Order one based on which car year you own and thus the loom for 2pin or 3pin switch , although the connector can be easily rewired to accept a 2pin switch or vice versa ...

 

When bleeding out a coolant , start first by opening all the bleeding nipples then fill the system with coolant ... when the collant starts to come out on the lowest point on the bleeder - close it up and continue adding coolant until it starts to come out on the highest bleeder point - close it and top up the expansion tank up to the top leaving the the tank cap off ..

Now , turn the heater fully on hot and start the engine , you'll need to hold it @ 1500 with a bit of reeving up until the fan kicks on .. up to that point leave it running just for a while and switch off ..

Put the cap back on to the expansion tank and you're good to go .

 

The blurbing/and bubbles coming out from the expansion tank is normal during the bleeding , cos the expansion bottle is your highest spot and any air left within the engine will be forced upwards out trough the pipework and then in the expansion tank .

 

Do the bleeding on cold engine , on hot engine switched right off the coolant will be extremely hot (can burn yourself) and pressurized ... the reason why you couldn’t get it out of the bleeder while running is cos it's moving by the water pump and it isn't under significant pressure , as soon as you switch the engine off the water pump stops spinning and thus stops coolant circulation trough the system , coolant temp. goes up , system pressure rises .. that's fore the pressurized system which is controlled by the expansion tank cap (usually 1bar rated on most cars .. but can be higher like 1.5 bars ... to raise the coolant liquid boiling point up from the 100C towards the 120/130C , and prevent coolant boiling at 100C point when you switch off hot engine - engine is still hot , by switching it off you've also stopped the water pump so the coolant wont be able to circulate through system to maintain it's temp. rating rather than that it'll heat up more but as it's under pressure by the expansion tank cap - it wont boil off , and will settle down after a while ..)

 

The one quick sign of badly blended system you can spot by turning the heater on - if it's fully on hot and blows just seamy hot air that's not good and needs bleeding again ... if it blows nice hot air then it's good .

 

Damir

Edited May 22, 2012 by DamirGTI

[dave205 19]

Firstly ive checked the fan switch, i do have a 97-92 one, the 1.1 one i have is the same.

 

I ran the car yesterday from cold on tick over for approx 30-35 mins. The is fluid coming out of the bleed nipple on the thermostat housing when not running, but not when it is. The tempreture slowly climbed up and up, the pipework between the matrix and header get hot first, then the expansion bottle gets to hot to put your finger in, the hoses to and from the rad still dont feel warm. The temp gauge got to three quarters and the stat opened, the fan kicked in when the gauge got to the last white line.

 

The bleed off blew air water and steam 6ft in the air and when i took the expansion bottle lid off its decided to empty the entire contents out everywere in the same fashion as the bleed off.

 

Im am concerned the engine is piped up wrong and i have water pushing againest itself or short looping somewere in the system.

 

The heater blows lovely and hot and the thermostat has been changed twice. I am now concered ive f**ucked the head gasket?

The tempreture needle went a needles width over the last white line before i turned it off.

 

Im at my whits end with this as i cant sort it!!