Rollcage Fitting Queries From The Other Thread...pics + Info Here.

[Rippthrough 98]

Not sure why it generated so much interest but as from the other thread:

 

 

That's a cage with the feet knocked out, the whole thing then slides over the rear seat area with a bit of brute force, so you can weld the screen bar through the doors, and the main hoop over the top through the rear window holes.

 

I don't cut any holes in the floor, as the cage has to come backwards somehow as it triangulates to the front struts, so you need put those bars in before the a-pillars go in place.

You can see the feet I use instead:

 

 

^Now sports a lot more diagonals and door bars mind

Means the whole cage can be made a close fit right from the bottom of the b-pillar to the front of the a-pillar and all the tube work between. Which allows lots of stitch welding directly to the chassis

 

It's a right bar steward to fit the thing with it being so tight, but I'd rather swear for a day extra fitting it and have it tight to the bodyshell, than have it floating in fresh air like a lot of off-the-shelf cages.

Edited April 9, 2012 by Rippthrough

[petert 639]

Very nice, thanks. I notice that not many designs pickup the forward rear suspension mounting points. A previous car I owned had a bolt in alloy cage, early '90's vintage. In addition to the rear points, it had diagonal bracing picking up the forward points as well.

 

I found a pic. Overkill?

Edited April 10, 2012 by petert

[Rippthrough 98]

Yeah, I've done one before where a bar runs over the top of them from the rear mounts to the bottom of the main hoop, but this is supposed to be a fairly cheap cage. They might go in at a later date.

[Rippthrough 98]

Here you go:

 

[matt.f 16]

Nice cage,everyone has there own opinion on cages.Most works competition cars you see now have a vertical double diagonal right behind the seats,that's what my dad was advised to get on his 106 rallycar by the protection and performance who did his cage.

I'll be going down the bolt in c44 route,easier to take out if I damage shell and not the cage

[welshpug 1,736]

with a decent weld in you just replace the bent panels

[Rippthrough 98]

Yeah, I prefer the cross in the main hoop too, it gives you more room to put the engine in the middle....

 

However, the reason it's usually put in the back is that even though it's at an angle if the car goes over sideways, you usually have at least one kink/bend in the main hoop to follow the bodyshell, and in the case of quite a few manufacturers - that CC one Cameron has for instance - there's several, so you no longer have true triangulation between the diagonal for rigidity - to stop the frame being pushed over.

It's not a massive difference, but it makes it enough that the one in the rear makes just as much, if not more sense to have. Especially if you're putting the harness bars back there anyway...

Edited April 10, 2012 by Rippthrough

[matt.f 16]

with a decent weld in you just replace the bent panels

yep,suppose depends how bad you roll it.light roll yeah,if all inner panels are knackered no

[welshpug 1,736]

naah...

 

 

 

 

[matt.f 16]

Yeah see quite a lot now with vertical double diagonal and horizontal!Suppose it's all extra weight though!

I've rolled with an omp(basic design)cage and it did it's job.

 

[welshpug 1,736]

I'd bet that car even with its iron bloc engine and 17" wheels would be lighter than your 205

[matt.f 16]

That's nowt,should have seen 106 I rolled in lol!

I'm a panel beater anyhow so can sort it

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

I remember that car from pugfest few years back, that yours welshpug?

[welshpug 1,736]

afraid not, it's the gwynnespeed saxo.

 

http://gwynnespeed.co.uk/rallyteam.htm

 

There's no way I could afford to build something like that, Andy Gwynne is quite a talented fabricator, its completely home built other than an Ex-works 106 maxi kit car engine rebuilt by RED I think, started off life as a 1.5 diesel 106

Edited April 10, 2012 by welshpug

[Rippthrough 98]

Nearly there...

 

[M@tt 77]

Good effort Phil!!!

[matt.f 16]

Not seen the other thread,what cage is it mate?

[welshpug 1,736]

its a "rippthrough/phillipM" cage

[Rippthrough 98]

^^What he said

[Cameron 16]

Here you go:

 

 

So.. How is this different to the installation of my main hoop in "the other thread" that I received so much stick for?

 

If anything the fit is much, much worse!

Edited April 11, 2012 by Cameron

[Rippthrough 98]

That's not one of my hoops, it's a CC's one like yours, hence the 'fit'............like a sausage in a tunnel - think that's bad look at their a-pillars....

 

Its pressed against the roof as far as it will go, - close enough that it's welded directly to the shell at the top corners, the b-pillar gussets come forwards to the b-pillars (as they're not straight on a 306), not just outwards, the angle of the photo is deceiving:

 

Edited April 11, 2012 by Rippthrough

[Cameron 16]

Sounds exactly like mine then.. only mine is a lot closer than that as it's a tight fit to the contours of the B-pillar, only positioned behind it some 15mm so I can get the seating position right.

 

Maybe I'll take some better pics later to silence the critics..

Edited April 11, 2012 by Cameron

[Rippthrough 98]

Nah, I'm still gonna take the piss

 

At least that one ^^ actually touches the chassis at the top

Edited April 11, 2012 by Rippthrough

[Rich_p 23]

How do cages that are alterered, or not fitted exactly as per spec stand with MSA compliance?

[Cameron 16]

Depends what you've done to them!

 

Touching the roof is pointless in my opinion, it serves no purpose at all.