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tdr_1976

Tu3S Cylinder Head Work

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tdr_1976

Hi,

 

I've just removed the engine from the car in order to repaint and sort out the engine bay. So I decided that during the time the engine is out I'd take the opportunity to take the head off and fit the Kent cam and vernier pulley that I'd bought for it.

 

I've had a good read of the Haynes manual, but I still have a few questions.

 

1. Do I have to take the head bolts off in sequence?

 

2. Am I able to reuse the head bolts?

 

3. I've bought an OEM Head gasket for it, but it's not a repair one, does this make any difference? As I'm only going to be skimming enough off the head to clean it up and don't want it skimmed to the max as I still use the car as a daily driver. [ I'll be doing all that stuff to another engine I have anyway.]

 

4. Is it worth skimming the head? As Iv'e never had any issues at all with it overheating or using water or Oil.

 

Just a few questions I couldn't find the answer to in the Haynes.

 

Cheers! :)

Edited by tdr_1976

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Lan

1. its best if you do yes

 

2. for a tenner or whatever it is now its worth replacing, you can check if there overstretched though if your tight

 

3. oe head gasket is fine unless the head requires some serious skimming

 

4. if its not had any issues you don't have to, its all down to you really

Edited by Lan

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dcc

Its great you have a vernier as that'll allow you to time the.cam correctly to the bottom end. id ask for the head and block to be resurfaced. is this an alloy block? you cant really comment until its been apart and you check for pitting and further damage

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tdr_1976

Cheers for the replies chaps!

 

I've taken the head off & had a look at the top of the block and bottom of the head, both look really smooth with no nasty pitting or gouge marks. :D

 

I'm going to buy a set of head bolts anyway, I was just asking to see if they could be re-used.

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Anthony

Have the head checked for trueness as a matter of course - it's a false economy not to tbh

 

I'd personally say that if you're putting a bigger cam in then skimming off a little extra to raise the compression a little wouldn't be a bad thing, as it's quite low to begin with.

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tdr_1976

I've decided to get it skimmed for peace of mind anyway, how much of a skim would you reckon I could get away with, with a standard OEM gasket?

 

I've got a Steel Straight edge that I use for setting HP Turbine Blades on Rolls Royce Adour Engines, it's a two foot one, should be good enough to check if it's true!

Edited by tdr_1976

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tdr_1976

I went to the Peugeot main dealers today, and was quoted £54 for a set of head bolts with a 10% discount. :o

 

Is there an alternative to OEM head blots?

 

Or is it best to put the OEM ones in rather than after market ones?

Edited by tdr_1976

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trogboy

Go to GSF or ECP for the headbolts - you'll be fine. You don't seem to hear about people stripping or snapping them.

 

What are the specs on your kent cam? You can machine an awful lot of of these heads before you start to get clearance issues, even with an agressive cam. Plus it takes a lot to get close to exposing oil ways in the head.

 

As long as the cam isn't crazy I'd have thought you could safely take off 30thou. For reference I removed 45thou from my TU24 head when I used it with my TU3S bottom end. No valve-piston clearance issues although it made the squish clearance very low.

 

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tdr_1976

Got another question, this time regarding setting the timing using the vernier pulley.

 

I'm very familiar with setting the timing with the standard pulley and lock blots. How does it work with the vernier?

 

Do you set the timing point with the Std pulley, mark if off and then fit the new pulley? The rest, I'm not so sure on!

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Rippthrough

I took nearly a full millimeter off my TU3S head the last time :ph34r:

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tdr_1976

Brave Man.....lol!

 

I've opted for 10 thou, the more serious work will be done on my spare engine.

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trogboy

Got another question, this time regarding setting the timing using the vernier pulley.

 

I'm very familiar with setting the timing with the standard pulley and lock blots. How does it work with the vernier?

 

Do you set the timing point with the Std pulley, mark if off and then fit the new pulley? The rest, I'm not so sure on!

 

Depends on the info you get from the cam supplier. Kent specify a lift on the inlet cam when the cylinder is at TDC so you set the bottom end to TDC and then use a dial gauge to set the lift on the cam and hence the angle. Then you tension up the belt making sure the cam doesn't move and finally lock the bolts on the vernier. Turn it over a couple of times and re-check.

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tdr_1976

Depends on the info you get from the cam supplier. Kent specify a lift on the inlet cam when the cylinder is at TDC so you set the bottom end to TDC and then use a dial gauge to set the lift on the cam and hence the angle. Then you tension up the belt making sure the cam doesn't move and finally lock the bolts on the vernier. Turn it over a couple of times and re-check.

Where will the crank be on std timing? BDC?

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trogboy

~TDC on cylinders 1 and 4 when the locking pin engages.

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tdr_1976

Ah, ok!

 

Right, let me get it clear how I do it...

 

1. Set the crank to TDC using the lock pin

 

2. Set up a dial gauge on the Inlet to find where the cam is at full lift - [The Kent cams website states Full Lift 108 Deg Inlet/Exhaust]

 

3. Take up the slack on the cambelt and lock the vernier making sure it doesn't move.

 

Is that right, sorry to sound like a retard, but I haven't done this kind if timing before......lol

 

Cheers!

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tomcolinjones

digging up your old thread sorry Dyl. How did you get on with fitting the cam and pulley? I've got a 285 piper cam to fit to a tu3s . How much did you skim off in the end? Many thanks, Tom

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tdr_1976

Hello mate!

 

I took 10 thou off the head.

 

:)

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