[engine_work] 1.9 Mi 16V Engine Rebuild

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Another engine rebuild project i've taken on...

 

Here is Ben.rallye's car, originally started out as gti but after a reshell it reappeared as a white rallye:

 

 

It started misfiring a bit and down on power, oil pressure was lost at high Rpm and loads of mayo in the breather pipes

Draining the oil confirmed this, absolutely loads of mayo everywhere. At least half a litre came out the inlet manifold!

 

 

Stripped the engine down, crank seems ok but will find out when the engine builders get their hands on it.

Was there for a while trying to get bearing cap number 3 off, 13mm head bolts holding it in from the sides of the block, D'OH!

Got the liners out to check the liner seats, theres a bit of crap on there but will clean it up and double check.

 

Removed the pistons from the liners and found this:

 

 

All four of the top rings were in pieces

 

Turns out the crank needs a regrind

And the head a skim as it's pitted from corrosion

16 new valve guides as they're badly worn

But hey that's a MI for you.

 

Using a Gti6 oil pump sprocket/pump baffle/oil spring to combat oil surge and possibly a gti6 sump aswell to save on buying a sump baffle...

Edited August 27, 2011 by Paul_13

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Made a bit of progress today:

 

Cleaned up mating surfaces of paint where Ben got too happy with the paintbrush

Took spray bars off to give them a clean

Cleaned up the liner seats and seals

Clean HG surface

Test fitted new liners and measured protusion All within tolerance

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Fluted a head bolt to clear out the block threads, aload of crap in there

 

We now have a decent straight edge thanks to Kyepan (many thanks) to check the liner protruderance. Hopefully it'll come up positive

 

Also put 2 piston rings sets on just the other 2 to put on now. Then put the pistons into the liners using loads of engine lube

 

We have everything else to put the engine together now, just waiting on the results from the block measurements.

 

Quick question:

 

I don't think these engines suffer from valve piston clearance as badly as the 6 engine. The head has had a hefty skim, a bit of corrosion was uncovered and welding needed, so was skimmed again afterward the original skim. Will it need a repair headgasket or can we use the OE thickness gasket and increase the CR a bit?

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

 

 

 

 

 

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Torqued the head up by using 25Nm 50Nm then 75Nm, didnt fancy doing the haynes manual way of doing it. Felt like the threads were going to strip out if we were to do the 300' method.

Oil pump in pieces to give it a good clean. Fitted the new XU10 spring and relief valve.

26t oil pump sprocket off a gti6, we used a new chain off a gti6

Timing plate on

Edited October 9, 2011 by Paul_13

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Sump baffle hidden under the sump, ABSOLUTE PITA to fit.

Timing belt done with help from Kyepan cheers buddy

Edited October 9, 2011 by Paul_13

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Another handy tip, ditch the water pipe on the back, Not needed at all in the 205, less pipes to leak and more room, Worth fitting a alloy water dist block too, Less likey to snap like the plastic ones do

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

We were discussing this last night. Need to look up part number for the bungs later, unless anyone has them handy

[Anthony 1,000]

If you use an 8v rear distribution block you only need one bung, and even then, if you know someone that can TIG weld I'd get the thermostat housing welded.

 

The bungs are found on various XUD/TD models on the airbox/induction side, but I don't have the part number to hand. Probably got a couple kicking around though.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

If you use an 8v rear distribution block you only need one bung, and even then, if you know someone that can TIG weld I'd get the thermostat housing welded.

 

The bungs are found on various XUD/TD models on the airbox/induction side, but I don't have the part number to hand. Probably got a couple kicking around though.

 

Do you have a 8v alloy distribution block kicking about? That means only one bung is needed as you said, would you kindly have a look for one pretty please? (and a drivers side parcel shelf clip )

[Anthony 1,000]

I'll have a look for you - I know that I've an alloy Mi16 one, but not 100% sure if I've an alloy 8v one to hand (I have a plastic one though)

[welshpug 1,621]

was a recent thread with various part numbers of bungs recently.

 

I have a both 8v and 16v alloy water distribution thingy in my box of bits to be sold

Edited October 10, 2011 by welshpug

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Bung Thread

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Cheers Chipstick

 

Anthony should be sorting me out with the bits I need, if he finds them in the garage

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

If not, I have that old 1.9 block which I can pinch the DB from.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Clutch on........

 

Cleaned up box

 

New release bearing and clutch fork bushes.

 

As far as the clutch plate will go on... Turns out the splines are not machined square, but are tapered.

Black diamond have sent out a replacement friction plate, so will be fitting this soon. Seems as though they know it's a faulty batch but won't admit it.

 

Tomorrow night, box on again......

 

P.s. A thank you to Anthony for the 8v distribution block and bung so we can remove the metal pipe above the exhaust manifold Cheers mate

Edited October 18, 2011 by Paul_13

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Yay!

 

 

What are these sensors for, I know one is the water temp dial in dash. Whats the other?

 

And up

 

And in

 

 

Pic of the old big end bearing

 

 

Got pulled by the police on the maiden voyage

[welshpug 1,621]

water temp warning light, and the ecu temperature sender.

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Could you elaborate on those please.

There's three in the picture, 1 at top (spade connector) 1 in middle (spade connector) and one at bottom (blue plug)

 

Thanks

[welshpug 1,621]

blue 2 pin is ecu, same as the 8 valve

[Anthony 1,000]

The taller of the two single spade senders is for the coolant temp warning light, and the shorter of the two is for the coolant temp gauge.

 

I can never remember which way around the wires go, so the easiest thing to do is ground them to the block one at a time and see which one makes the gauge read maximum (the high coolant temp light will be on anyway without the engine running thanks to the oil pressure switch, which triggers the low oil pressure, STOP, and high coolant temp lights to all come on)

 

That said, do yourself (Ben) a favour and redo that sensor loom properly to get rid of that brown multiplug - there's absolutely no excuse for that on an Mi16 conversion!

[welshpug 1,621]

if it had the original spare connectors they are colour coded to the ring on the sender.

[Josh_Quant 27]

how comes your using the gti6 oil pump then?

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

It's an MI pump mate, using an Xu10 spring and relief valve to give 1bar extra oil pressure. Also using an early gti6 oil pump sprocket to raise the pressure at idle a bit.

More to be precautious than anything

[Josh_Quant 27]

xu10 mi16 or gti6 spring?

 

how many tooth a mi16 oil sprocket got if a gti6 got 26

 

cheers josh