Torqing Cylinder Head

[mikeyd 13]

is there a method of tightening the cylinder head using a torque wrench only ie without degrees--torque wrench i have /degree guage i idont!!

ive seen on puma racings site where you only torque the head-i also know of his reputation on here!! but if it works------

any feedback positive or not?

[smithy 1]

personally i would not do it any other way than what pug recommend they suggest that way for a reason,i purchased a angular guage cheapish from halfrauds when i did mine.

[large 33]

I have done it the PR way a couple of times never had any problems.

[mikeygulley 19 1 Cars]

personally i would not do it any other way than what pug recommend they suggest that way for a reason,i purchased a angular guage cheapish from halfrauds when i did mine.

 

I agree, although I did do the degrees by guessing last time. I have since purchased an angular gauge ready to be used.

[matty_gti 20]

I once used the Peugeot method and ended up stripping a thread in the block . From then on I used the puma racing method and never had any problems as it doesn't put as much stress on the bolts/block. That's what it feels like anyway.

 

Just make sure you start in the middle with the bolt on the exhaust side and work your way out clockwise.

Edited June 2, 2011 by matty_gti

[Mikey S 29 1 Cars]

I once used the Peugeot method and ended up stripping a thread in the block . From then on I used the puma racing method and never had any problems as it doesn't put as much stress on the bolts/block. That's what it feels like anyway.

 

Just make sure you start in the middle with the bolt on the exhaust side and work your way out clockwise.

 

Clean the headbolt threads with a suitable tap and make sure there free of swarf and contaminants. I use a shot of brake cleaner down the holes to clear them out. Use the special headbolt grease thats usually supplied with the bolts, smear some under the bolt head and down the threads and you wont have a problem. I have done lots of heads like this including pug 8v and 16v without a problem.

 

Mike

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

If you use the correct spec headbolts (with spirals on the shaft, not solid) then they are easy to tighten to the angle torque & you don't risk stripping the block threads because they twist rather than put an extra massive amount of stress through the block threads.

 

 

The FIA one's I was supplied previously had a solid shaft & they can cause the block to strip if the internal threads are in poor condition.

 

Graham.

[AndyCrom 64]

Hi there,

 

Im a newbie here and have been searching around for an answer so forgive me if it resurrect an old thread, Ive just got myself my first 205 (J plate 1.9gti) and after being converted from the Vauxhall Nova (sorry is this a curse word on here lol) I saw the Lazer green example and thought a new hot hatch addition may be welcome, so some cash later I now have it at home and want to restore it to its former glory of days gone by.

 

Now onto my question, Ive just been to my local 'facotrs to get a headbolt set only to be told there is 2 sets each with diff lengths (168mm and 175mm?) but they are only have the FIA ones and after reading this am a bit wary of the FIA ones, so what make is the spiral ones and do they have diff lenghts?

 

Thanks all in advance!

 

Andy

[Weser 30]

I can't really help that much as I dont really know the answer to your question. I would say try Peugeot direct for the correct head bolts but someone else might give a much better answer.

 

I just wanted to say a big thumbs up on there being another Andy with a J plate Laser 1.9 Gti. Welcome to the club!

[welshpug 1,627]

last alloy block I did was put together with Payen bolts and standard figures from the Haynes manual, no issues at all.

[S@m 156]

Peugeot part number for the head bolts is 020457, they are 175mm long. Cost £5.73+vat each though!

 

Sam

 

EDIT- i have also used payen ones in the past from a factor, albeit on a xu10 8v turbo engine, but with no problems whatsoever.

Edited May 9, 2012 by Sam306

[welshpug 1,627]

and the last price I remember from my local motorfactor was about £15.

[AndyCrom 64]

thanks for the advice all, will get some bits ordered and get a crack on with the stripdown, but in the meantime I think I have enough to be getting on with the birds nest of wires behind the dash/engine bay of which half seem to be not connected to anything, is this a pug standard? oh and whilst im here anyone know what each of the dials is on the speedo, namely the one top right of the cluster, as when i brake it shoots right round to red, but I found out this was caused by a loose brown wire thats been tied to the header tank and was touching to ground during braking, tempted for a full re-loom by the current state!

[S@m 156]

Top right is oil temp, bottom right is coolant temp, top left is oil pressure. More info here; http://www.205gtidri...umentpanel.html

 

The loose brown wire should go to the oil temp sender in the back of the sump btw.

 

And i wouldnt say that lots of unconnected wires was a pug standard, maybe its the remnants of on old alarm system that you are seeing.

 

Sam

Edited May 9, 2012 by Sam306

[AndyCrom 64]

Im building up some photos ready to show all with a WIP thread, trust me when I say so far Ive found a good 30 or so so far, and thats in the engine bay, put it like this, when I was driving it home I heard a scraping noise, turned out to be the alloy rad fan relay dragging up the road, the previous owner seemed to have an affinity with clear sellotape making and holding connections/wires, If i did that back in my RAF days, I really would have been shot! Pole Volt are gonna love me soon!

[DamirGTI 327]

1. stage - 30Nm

2. stage - 55Nm

3. stage - loosen each bolt one at a time 1/8th turn and retighten to 55Nm

4. stage - 80Nm

5. stage - 95Nm (70lbf ft)

 

Oil bolt threads with engine oil or better still - copper grease (but don't apply too much of either) ... use new bolts and clean up the threads in the block out of deposits (make an tap out of old head bolt , take an grinder and make a V groove on two opposite sides of the bolt .. then oil up and run in/out a few times trough each block hole - clean up with a brake cleaner spray ..)

 

Damir

[AndyCrom 64]

Spot on, cheers guys for all the advice,

 

Ive just just ordered some payen twist bolts for £26 and a nice new snap-on torx bit just for the job in hand, so will post up once i get to the magic 30 with a WIP thread, but whils im here, what do you all think is the best, most effective way of flushing mayo out of the system? i will be getting new pipes etc for the oil lines, just wondered how everyone else tackles the dreaded goo!

[welshpug 1,627]

give it a good hard drive

[AndyCrom 64]

Won't that just spread the gunk around more liberally?

[welshpug 1,627]

no, it'll get it nice and warm and burn off the moisture in the oil