1.9 Gti Lump Identification

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

I have just stripped my 1.9 DKZ engine down to the block only, unfortunately it is slightly damaged. I have a spare block which is older but does appear to have everything in the same place in terms of holes, threads etc although the casting style is very slightly different. Has anyone with experience done this and is sure that all the blocks are essentially the same? I'm assuming the slight casting differences are just supplier differences but the spec is the same!

 

Also where is the best place to get replacement rebuild bits?

 

Thanks!

Edited May 27, 2011 by mhyphenl

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

I have just stripped my 1.9 DKZ engine down to the block only, unfortunately it is slightly damaged. I have a spare block which is older but does appear to have everything in the same place in terms of holes, threads etc although the casting style is very slightly different. Has anyone with experience done this and is sure that all the blocks are essentially the same? I'm assuming the slight casting differences are just supplier differences but the spec is the same!

 

Also where is the best place to get replacement rebuild bits?

 

Thanks!

 

Bump, Is there some sort of conspiracy regarding decent suppliers of rebuild parts, another lad has posted a similar question with no reply. It's not alot to ask to be fair. I've searched and found discussion on measurement and build grease and running in but not on bearing supply!!

 

Cheers,

[murtaghp 3]

I was going to attempt something similar, My DKZ engine block was also damaged so I got a spare block with the intention of swapping the internals.

 

Comparing the two bare blocks there was no difference and mine was a 1990 and the spare was a 1987. I believe they may have changed the block slightly in 92 to accomodate the different timing belt tenisioner though. I have no experience with these block so I cannot tell you.

 

I enquired at my local machine shop for the bearings etc. they were no problem providing I could give them a sample of each.

 

Prices were as follows:

 

Crank Grind - £45

Liners Honed - £48

Full Gasket Set - £60

Rings - £75

BE, Shells & Thrust - £90

 

In the end I just bought another engine (non CAT) and so far so good.

Edited May 28, 2011 by murtaghp

[mhyphenl 10 1 Cars]

As far as i can see the only thing I need to do is tap the hole where the concentric tensioner should go and all will fit.

I'm trying to get my head round things like clearances etc and possible crank polishing, mine looks to be in very good condition, just light marking in the direction of rotation.

I have read that honed liners and the apropriate rings will never bed in as well as the original, (if it aint broke i guess) but I do want to restore as much original life and performance as possible, I may go for new liners and new rings as that should give the best results, what are you guys thoughts?

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

I don't know where you have read that honed liners and new rings will not bed in properly? This is standard practise in a rebuild of any engine. If you remove the pistons from the liners it is good practise to fit new rings and hone. Chances are you can get away without though.

[smithy 1]

as tom says it is good practice to renew the rings however you can have pistons out and check condition etc and if good refit,honing the bores is standard procedure on any engine that is stripped unless they are scored/knackered.