Deep Socket Size For Reverse Switch Removal?

[RickyD 0]

Good Morning All,

 

I bought a '91 H 1.9 GTI at the weekend and I'm just going through a list of jobs that needs attention. I've noticed that the reversing lights don't work.

 

I bridged the connector light night and the lights are fine. I don't appear to have a socket long enough to remove the faulty switch.

 

Could someone confirm the size of deep socket that I will require. Is it 22mm or 23mm??

 

I'm also not sure which is the correct switch replacement that I will require. I've e-mailed Auto Five to request their assistance. The switch currently on has a white plastic housed connector.

 

Many Thanks

 

RickyD

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

I cracked mine off with an adjustable spanner from memory. Once you have done this it should easily screw out

[RickyD 0]

I cracked mine off with an adjustable spanner from memory. Once you have done this it should easily screw out

 

Thanks for the advice, however I couldn't fit my adjustable spanner into the hole of the gearbox housing.

 

Cheers

 

RickyD

[RickyD 0]

Oh, I forgot to mention that I purchased a replacement reverse switch from ebay. It's the intermotor part no. 54352 which replaces part no. 2257.33/2257.41.

 

Hopefully I've bought the correct one, it's looks identical on the photo. Any one know which size it is, 22mm, 23mm or 24mm?

 

Cheers

 

RickyD

[welshpug 1,626]

get it out of the packet and check the size?

[RickyD 0]

Will do mate when it arrives. Should be here early next week.

 

I've asked the lads on the shop floor at work and they are going to have a look for me.

 

Cheers

 

RickyD

[RickyD 0]

Received the new switch last night and the diameter of the nut is a lot smaller than the current one. I've tried all sizes ranges from 21mm through to 24mm and I cannot get the old one off.

 

I think it must be between 22mm & 23mm as the 21mm is too small and 24mm is too long. I don't have the deep sockets for 22mm & 23mm and I ended up snaping the connector off.

 

Another though it may be imerial sizes 13/16" or 7/8".....

 

Anyone else have any ideas as it's doing my crust in. Hopefully I will be seeing my mates Dad at the weekend and I'm sure he will be able to assist.

 

Many Thanks

 

RickyD

[tony perks 1]

its 22mm for information, also dont mix be1 and be 3 switches as you wont get gears with the wrong one fitted

[RickyD 0]

Thanks Tony, I'll order a 22mm deep socket then.

 

How can I tell which gearbox it is be1 or be3? My car is a 91 H-Plate which is phase 1.5.

 

Many Thanks

 

RickyD

[cRaig 265 1 Cars]

BE1 or BE3 should be visible in the casting, not far from the reverse light switch, on a flat part of the cast towards the gearbox mount pin. At least thats where it is on the BE3 boxes I have

[Ryan 99]

Look at the selector arms. BE1s have two flat arms, BE3s have one flat arm and one round arm that's bent 90 degrees:

 

 

BE3 (circled) vs BE1 (bottom right)

[Anthony 1,000]

How can I tell which gearbox it is be1 or be3? My car is a 91 H-Plate which is phase 1.5.

Easiest way to tell....

 

BE1 = Lift-up reverse next to first

BE3 = Reverse below fifth.

 

You car should have a BE3 gearbox fitted as the changeover point was on a early 1990/G.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

A 1991 car would have a BE3 box if it hasn't been changed.

 

However the easiest method to ID which type, that I am suprised no one has mentioned, is that BE1 has reverse next to 1st gear, BE3 has reverse below 5th gear.

[jord294 87]

be 3 gearbox is a pull down reverse

 

be 1 gearbox is lift up reverse

 

[RickyD 0]

Ha ha, you learn something new everyday. I'm having lots of fun learning about these cars.

 

Mine will be the BE3 then as it's reverse below 5th gear.

 

Thanks again for all of your responses and detailed drawings.

 

RickyD

[RickyD 0]

O.K. 22mm Deep Socket now ordered and awaiting feedback regarding the supply of a new switch.

 

If the suppliers doesn't come up trumps does anyone have an suggestions as to where I can obtain a new switch to fit the BE3 gearbox?

 

Many Thanks

 

RickyD

[RickyD 0]

Result guy's. I've managed to replace the faulty switch. What a sense of achievement!

 

I managed to remove the old one with a 7/8" socket and fit the replacement with a normal 21mm socket by hand. Once it was nip up by hand, I had to put some latex gloves on take achieve more grip. As the lights were still not working at this point I had to tighten it up further by using two flat head screw drivers.

 

It shows what a bit of determination does. I couldn't fit an extention in the socket so the above sufficied.

 

Thanks again for you support.

 

Cheers

 

RickyD

[cheesegrater 43 1 Cars]

The tightness of the sensor isn't to get the switch to work it's to stop it from falling out

It's definitely worth acquiring a decent tool kit and steer clear of using adjustables.

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

Check the quality of your wiring connectors as they may have corroded. I had problems with this once and even had 12v going to the bulb at the back but it wouldn't work. I swapped the rear light (phase 2) and all was fine

[RickyD 0]

All the lights are now working as they should do and the switch thread is all the way through the housing. Mission completed as they say.

 

Adjustable spanners were not used as I couldn't fit them in the housing and there was no way an extension bar or knuckle would fir in either.