The Ongoing Saga Of My Shagged Mi16 Engine

[GLPoomobile 958]

Justin

 

Short answer to the coolant loss - it's coming out from under the headbolt at the front by the engine mount. So there is a constant pool there in between the webbing, and when it was at it's worst (prior to the Radweld and prior to going to Miles) you could see it coming down there quite quickly.

 

Regarding the engine swap, to put this in to perspective (and to make HK realise how completely misplaced his comments are) the issue here is not about access to work space, the issue is about time (and to a lesser extent money). I don't have any time, it's literally as simple as that. I have an impending move to Edinburgh at the end of this month. Last weekend we had to go up to flat hunt and for Laura to have job interviews, which is why I had to put K-Seal in the engine hours before leaving, as I needed the car, end of story. I have no free weekends between now and the move. I have very little free time due to how much I'm working (I was in the office until 10pm last night and got home at 11pm). I have a room full of car parts that I still need to catalogue and put up for sale on here or they'll end up being scrapped. We've got s*it loads of stuff at home that needs to be sold. We've got all the packing to do, and I have to repair and repaint the flat so our deposit is not affected.

 

I have NO time!

 

I really don't understand why that is so difficult for some people to comprehend, and why it pisses me off SO much when people try to be helpful on here but only manage to be patronising instead. So going back to HK's reply above, if I hadn't used K Seal, what would be the alternative?

1 - Take the car back to Miles or somebody else and have them strip down the engine to skim the block, and rebuild - not affordable

2 - Replace the engine - I have no time to source and complete a swap

3 - Have the car trailored all the way to Edinburgh when I move, and rely on expensive rail tickets for each trip that we need to make up there in the meantime - not affordable

4 - Simply leave it London or scrap it - like I'm going to do that

 

So come on then, what should I have done other than use a bottle of K-Seal? I'd really love to hear the answer to this.

 

And before any smart arses comment on me having time to post this, that's because I'm sat at work and taking my lunch break, OK?

 

Sorry for the rant, but I had to vent

 

And to re-iterate yet again, the short term will be about establishing how genuine these problems are and lessening them if I can. An engine swap will happen in the long term, so there is no point in going on about it now.

[Jrod 7]

I think you need a second car.

 

I know its extra money and it might be a struggle to afford it but in the long run It's the best thing you'll ever do. You won't have to use the 205 and can repair it at your own pace and welll.... the amount of time it spends off the road technically you'll only be running 1 car still.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Hopefully getting a Volvo 850/V70 in a few months.

[Jrod 7]

And keeping the 205?

 

You won't regret it.

[kyepan 291]

If the leak is just a leak, then you can drive it, just keep it topped up, i've had a cracked block for two years, it has weeped at various rates, i just top it up with the correct percentage of water and coolant weekly/ monthly, dependant on use. I've sat in massive traffic jams, and because it's full, and the cooling circuit and fans work it's just like normal.

 

As far as i am concerned if you monitor the level hourly over the first 4 hours, you'll have a good idea of how much it is using then go form there.

 

You have nothing to worry about! apart from where to store the water and coolant on the way up.

Edited August 6, 2010 by kyepan

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

I RAN OUR TRACK DAY CAR FOR ABOUT 3 YEARS WITH IT WEEPING COOLANT (oops caps sorry) from the front of the block.

 

OK I was luckier than you and a new head gasket and head skim sorted it. But really I think you are getting over excited about it. At the end of the day I'm guessing you have breakdown cover, so try to stop over analysing each and every movement of a temperature or pressure needle and just drive the bugger. Keep it topped up with coolant and then should it break down then so be it and deal with it then.

 

For the record on the Volvo subject, my Dad bought a V70 2.4 auto about 18 months ago for less than £1500. He has been to Spain and all over the country in it, it even returns mid 30's mpg which I was astonished about. Leather, air, all the toys. If you go down the Volvo route, what is the point of buying the T5 you were talking about, when you will have the 205 as the toy? Something to consider anyhow.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Hi Tom

 

 

Maybe I'm coming over a bit over excited about the issue (I'm not - except for certain responses). Believe me, after all the problems I've had with the car I'm now at the point where I really don't give much of a f*** anymore, and if it dies it dies. So I wouldn't say I'm over analysing it exactly, but yeah, I probably am jumping to conclusions as per usual. To be honest, I'm trying to strike a sensible medium between not giving a f***, and still being wary of the problems and showing it some sympathy. So I'll keep using it, and at the same time try not cause a premature death if I can help it, but if it does go then I've just got to accept that and move on.

 

I still want a T5. 5 cylinder 20v turbo burble

[wracing 19]

Wait till engine is stone cold, remove suspect head bolt but some instant gasket or good silicone round the hole on both sides of the washer and on the bolt face, do the f***er up and forget about it.

 

James

[lagonda 41]

As no one seems to have replied to your particular question specifically...my old Lancia Y10 had a pinhole leak in the lower metal water pipe to the block....wasn't clear how that was retained & too busy earning a living to find out. Eventually ran car without antifreeze as antifreeze has a leak-seeking propensity....end of leak...most of the time.

 

A couple of years later...on holiday in France....big puddle of water under car. Core plug (inaccessible of course) has corroded through. Yes, I know I asked for it, yes I do know antifreeze contains anti-corrosive. Put water in...it poors out. Fortunately nearby shop has stocks of rad-seal type bodgo. Put that in, & unbelievably, it sealed that leak.

 

BUT! car ran much hotter ever after, & motorway traffic jams were hell. So very definitely YES this stuff does block water passages & will make your car run hotter, & it did heat up very quickly.

 

Also this might sound daft, & if Miles has been involved doubt it's the case....but are you sure dipstick is the right length? Only saying this because Meadows engines as fitted to Lagondas have different length dipsticks, & not at all unknown for people to find some moron has put the wrong dipstick in. Too little oil could explain low oil pressure & rapid heat increase.

[harryskid 193]

Frankly, I find that reply patronising and offensive. It's very easy to be holier than thou when you don't know somebody's circumstances.

 

I suggest you refrain from further input on this topic unless you have something constructive to add, as you are going to really get my back up

 

Pm sent

[welshpug 1,622]

#5, enlist 205gtidrivers forum aid to replace sourced known good unit.

 

your engine loom is good is it not? along with most if not all ancillaries.

[Toddy 7]

GLP

 

We have all carryed out bodges at some point. although now I do prefer preventative maintenance, normally the bodges are due to time or financial constraints, or naivety.

 

Halfords sell metal putty for about £4 which is plyable and mouldable before it goes off and sets, I sucessfully used it on a radiator which I damaged, this lasted years, certainly worth a try in your predicament, just clean the area with solvent/ wire wool etc to give it a fighting chance of binding. If your lucky it may save you a £1K!

[boldy205 74]

Just fill it up with coolant before you leave, get as far as you can without overheating, then call AA etc when/if the $hit hits the fan, just dont forget that at the end of the day, its only an engine, its not a huge deal, everybodys cars, new and old breakdown.

 

Matt

[harryskid 193]

For the record, i think mine was a bad post and have said sorry to him. I hope thats and end to the matter.

[GLPoomobile 958]

For the record, i think mine was a bad post and have said sorry to him. I hope thats and end to the matter.

 

Apology accepted and I'm sorry for jumping on you for what was innocent banter.

 

No real updates yet. Have been mega busy this weekend so I've not done anything with the car yet. But what I can report is...

 

1) The oil level is a smidge on the low side, so that probably accounts for the drop in pressure. It's currently about 1/3 of the way between min and max, whereas I tend to try and keep it at max usually. As I'm sure you all appreciate, it's bloody difficult to check the oil level when it's brand new, as it's almost invisible on the stick! But now it's darkened slightly I can see it.

2) I checked it when the engine was cold, and with my hand over the open header tank I got no pulsing or pressure against my hand, so that's a good sign.

3) Mayo is now very minimal in the filler cap, so it might have just been remaining condensation in there before. I'll clean it out before we go back up to Edinburgh this weekend and check it again.

4) The container of used oil from the last change the other week doesn't look as if it has any coolant in it. It should have collected on the surface but I can't see any.

 

So at the moment, it all looks pretty positive

[carbers205 1]

FWIW Ill throw my two pence into the mix, you say the head has been pressure tested and fine, yet the coolant is coming out from the headbolt.....would suggest to me that there is a crack between the block and the bolt thread so the water seeps up the bolt and out onto the floor. How you'd go about fixing it without buggering the torque settings of the bolt sadly I have no idea.

I know exactly how you feel about rapid temp rises, my 306 ended up with something similar but I didnt have an obvious leak....a higher rated header cap made things a little better though. Aside from hooking the rad fans up to run all the time, I suspect you will only cure the temp problems by curing the leak. Sounds like you just need to firefight as long as possible, carry a big bottle of coolant at all times and go steady, then once youre settled in Edinburgh and have the Volvo to run around in you can get stuck in to a permanent solution.

 

Andy

[Anthony 1,000]

1) The oil level is a smidge on the low side, so that probably accounts for the drop in pressure. It's currently about 1/3 of the way between min and max, whereas I tend to try and keep it at max usually. As I'm sure you all appreciate, it's bloody difficult to check the oil level when it's brand new, as it's almost invisible on the stick! But now it's darkened slightly I can see it.

Generally speaking, a low oil level won't cause low pressure unless there's enough force on the oil in the sump (ie heavy cornering or braking) to cause oil starvation. The exception to that is the less oil in the sump, typically the quicker that it will get hot under load, and hotter oil gives lower pressure than cooler oil.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Sorry for the real n00b-style question, but, I just checked the Haynes 405 manual (and did a search on here to double check) and it states that the oil capacity is 5l with no filter change. I'm not convinced. The last change I did I used a full 5l and then had to add a little more from a new 1l bottle. Although as I mentioned earlier, I've always found it nigh on impossible to accurately read the dipstick level when the oil is fresh.

 

Does anyone have any comment on this? Maybe I should check I've got the right dipstick as someone else suggested. It's a standard 1.9 Mi16 by the way.

 

Oh, and since I'm additing to the topic, another thing to ponder...what I've noticed with the oil pressure (on the standard guess-o-meter) is that when you come off the throttle and the revs drop back to idle, the pressure drops nice and smooth to a low point, then pauses for a second, then drops quite quickly the last little bit to it's minimum point (in this case, just above the first line on the gauge). It'll drop to down to idle (pretty rock solid at 1krpm) smoothly with no hunting, and I'd expect the pressure to drop smoothly in unison, which it does. But I don't understand why it'll retain a little more pressure for about a second after reaching idle speed, and then suddenly drop again. It's almost as iff there is a sticky bit on the gauge and the needle catches there on it's way down, but I honestly don't think that is the case as it does seem to move smoothly around that point otherwise. EDIT: I've only noticed this when it's hot and the pressure is low, so I'll need to check it's behaviour when cold.

 

Is that normal behaviour (I can't remember from previous 205s) and if so, why does it do that?

Edited August 12, 2010 by GLPoomobile

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

For christs sake GLP, you cannot deduce engine behavoiur that accurately from the guessometer. If you are worried about oil pressure fit a proper gauge, you will most likely find your oil pressure to be far better than you think it is. Trying to determine anything meaningful from the standard gauge is a lottery.

[Tesstuff 222]

That car has really really got to you hasn't it GLP.

 

From an unbiased mature calm outsider take my advice, get rid.

[kyepan 291]

....

[happygoron 2]

I have read this whole thread and I have come to a diagnosis.

 

You have puganoia, a severe case.

 

The only cures are to sell it or stop giving a s*it and just drive it.

 

Please pay my receptionst on your way out.

[S@m 156]

Sorry for the real n00b-style question, but, I just checked the Haynes 405 manual (and did a search on here to double check) and it states that the oil capacity is 5l with no filter change. I'm not convinced. The last change I did I used a full 5l and then had to add a little more from a new 1l bottle. Although as I mentioned earlier, I've always found it nigh on impossible to accurately read the dipstick level when the oil is fresh.

 

Just FYI, i was always under the impression, from Haynes and otherwise, that the oil capacity of a standard 1.9 Mi is 5.3L; Just to take the piss and force you to buy more than one bottle of oil. Usually seems pretty damn close to that when i change the oil in mine anyways.

Sam

[GLPoomobile 958]

For christs sake GLP, you cannot deduce engine behavoiur that accurately from the guessometer. If you are worried about oil pressure fit a proper gauge, you will most likely find your oil pressure to be far better than you think it is. Trying to determine anything meaningful from the standard gauge is a lottery.

 

Alright, chill out Jeez-oh!

 

I'm only casually asking if anyone else has noticed similar behaviour, as there's no harm in asking. I already stated in an earlier post that I'll be connecting up another guage, and depending on the result of that I might have to get a garage to fit a mechanical gauge to get a proper reading. But if someone has seen this behaviour before and thinks it's normal then I'd hope that they chip in and tell me. It's not going to massively change the situation but every bit of info helps.

 

I get the feeling that everyone thinks I'm stressing out over this. I'm not. This isn't a drama! You obviously think I'm making a big deal becuase of previous topics from me, and that's understandable. But I'm totally chilled about this, honestly. I'm trying to do things as and when time permits, and I want to go through it logically, bit by bit, so that I can see what changes have what results, so that I can get an idea of what the causes of the problems are, or if indeed any of them are real problems. Like I said, no harm in asking questions along the way.

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

From reading your posts it sounds like you are just over analysing it to bloody death. Fit a proper mechanical gauge and you will then know what your oil pressure actually is and either discover your engine is fooked or actually there is nothing to whittle about.