Tu Engine End Float

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Hi Guys

 

I had my bottom pulley off when I changed the crank oil seal and timing belt and there seemed to be about 1mm end float in the crank, this totally disappears when I bolt the pulley back on.

 

Is this normal, is it okay as there's no end float when it's all bolted together?

 

Any ideas Guys???

[RossD 43]

Doesn't sound right to me, when building an engine you check the endfloat without the pulley on anyway and it's a lot less that 1mm!

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Cheers Ross, Any idea what the maximum allowed is? I've never changed thrust washers before, Is it a simple as removing the oil pump and the end bearing cap? (I think this is where they are)

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

I think they are deeper in the engine, on the second big end from the flywheel, also im not sure if they can be done with the crank in situ...

[RossD 43]

Nope, to get an accurate reading you'd have to have the flywheel and gearbox removed, as well as pistons and rods ideally. Best place to do it is with the block stripped on a stand!

I can't remember the figure off the top of my head, I'll try and look it up and post it later.

Edited April 26, 2010 by RossD

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Cheers Guys, that would be good thanks Ross

 

 

Probably be rebuild time then, not done anything like this before

[swordfish210 20]

TU's are easy to rebuild, Is it an alloy block?

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

TU's are easy to rebuild, Is it an alloy block?

 

 

No mate, Gti engine. I might purchase a Haynes manual as I'm unsure how to check tolerances etc

[swordfish210 20]

No mate, Gti engine. I might purchase a Haynes manual as I'm unsure how to check tolerances etc

 

Shouldn't this be in the XU section then?

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Not if its a 106 Gti

[swordfish210 20]

I see. Before you condem me as an idiot just remmeber it's late and i've been typing about simulation software all evening

 

If it's an iron block then it's slightly easier to build as you don't need to worry about setting the liner heights. The haynes manual isn't brilliant for all the measurements you require, i'm lead to believe the Autodata book is more informed.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Ha ha I'm not going to condemn you as an idiot after all you're the one helping Me, I think I should do ok if I can get hold of the tolerances. I'm just dreading the whole thing as I'm new to this engine rebuild stuff

[Sandy 189]

Endfloat spec 0.07-0.32mm, I aim for about 0.12-0.15mm

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

If there is a local engine building place near you, if you ask them very nicely the will be able to print you off an engine spec sheet with all the torque values and tolerances.

 

Paul.

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Thanks for all your help and info guys, I'll have a go at getting the spec sheet then I'll have a crack at rebuilding it. Wish me luck

[Guest dean-191]

02392828224 Banda engineering in sunny Portsmouth. Brilliant blokes and brilliant prices on all bits and machine work.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

most of the Tu engines i've dealt with seem to of had loads of float on the crank, even a a jp4 engine with less than 15k on it had well over 0.5mm float??? They're all still running fine though

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

02392828224 Banda engineering in sunny Portsmouth. Brilliant blokes and brilliant prices on all bits and machine work.

 

Yeah I've heard good things about Banda from people in the trade, I'd like to have a go at doing as much as I can myself first though

 

 

most of the Tu engines i've dealt with seem to of had loads of float on the crank, even a a jp4 engine with less than 15k on it had well over 0.5mm float??? They're all still running fine though

 

Mine ran fine with no symptoms up until the woodruff key in the crank broke up causing lots of bent valves (I assume the two things were related),

My engine has only done 64k and has 1.1mm according to a DTI gauge