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cRaig

[car_restoration] My Longwinded 1.9 Laser Project

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cRaig

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#bornready #itstime #resassemblyisthereverseofremoval

 

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So I've dusted the cobwebs off the old shed (barnfind dust, so it's probably already devalued...) done a bit of a stocktake, organised the garage (including tweaking the spanners..) and made a list for a proper BH weekend of making (hopefully) significant progress. 

 

I've also realised that I've actually made quite a lot of progress I haven't documented here (I say a lot, it's all relative, bear with me.. :P) I even made a list, and ticked quite a few things off!

 

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"Pro" Tip - please do check your seam sealer on the shell. Mine was all present and correct, as you would expect. But at some point it had gone brittle and let/trapped moisture behind it. Considering I've already had the carpet and insulation out literally countless times, in addition to adding all of the sound deadening, plus a couple of resprays.. You would have thought I would have noticed! I poked and prodded the 'surface rust' and this is what I uncovered!

 

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Quite concerning this had developed and the seam sealer looked absolutely fine! Especially as underneath is a bit of a water trap with the fuel tank below and seatbelt mounting is nearby as well as letting moisture into the entire length of the cill. 

 

So I gave the entire floor pan a good once over, exposed, chemically treated and fabricated a good old fashioned CAD (cardboard aided design) reinforcing plate transcribed onto a sheet of zintec, welded it on from underneath and zinc primed, smothered it in 3M seam sealer (above and below). Followed by stonechip & ChassisBlack paint. Then a liberal coat of underseal. Belt and braces and all that.. While the fuel tank was dropped I re-run the brake pipes for the ABS and fitted the rear load compensator to the beam:

 

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Shiny shiny, panic over... 

 

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While the tank was dropped (again..) I took the opportunity to replace the fuel lines with pre-formed stainless ones from BakerBM

 

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Question to the folks out there: Clearly Peugeot didn't envisage a car being assembled both with the later engine management (M3.1) which removes the AFM for a much smaller flow sensor, fitted in a car which also had PAS, as the sensor plug fouls the PAS reservoir. Any thoughts/suggestions?! I could try and nudge the reservoir slightly (although when the battery is back in there isn't much wriggle room!), so I'm thinking maybe reposition the sensor boss on the plastic pipe..? Thanks in advance!

 

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Please stand by. More updates incoming.... B):lol:

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AndyCrom
Posted (edited)

Glad you still keeping at it cRaig, makes me wonder if I should finally drag mine back home from its long standing barn storage in Wales.

 

I must admit however my 10yo son is now more passionate about getting my Lazer back on the road again than I have been these past 10 years, and if yours has devalued any with a minor bit of dust I'm wondering where actual farm barn dust and hay values mine at. :lol:

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Edited by AndyCrom

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cRaig

Oh, I think with that genuine dust and straw, you could retire on the funds from selling it as-is...! B):lol:

 

It's amazing that actually finding the motivation (for me, anyway) is by far the most difficult part... (I guess it's easier to say that at the moment before a long weekend of head scratching trying to remember how the bastard thing goes back together..)  and just how few actual defined 'jobs' can completely stall a project. -_-:blink:

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welshpug

I would be inclined to try the zx/306/xsara/partner/berlingo pas bottle and location, though you would lose the oem jack location, that's easy enough to stash in the CTI location,  the pipework for the PAS is a lot neater on them though the cooling loop is on the front panel not under the floor.

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cRaig

Good thinking Mei! I've already lost the OE jack screw for the A/C dryer so I will investigate further!

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Leslie green

Great to see you cracking on with this Craig , id imagine the rust was a bit of a surprise on such a mint looking car 

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cRaig
Posted (edited)

Well, I channeled the Peugeot spirits and put on my uniform..:

 

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Was waiting outside the local supermarket first thing for supplies (freezer bags & cake...)

 

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We started by unearthing all of my various spare parts from where I'd stashed them..

 

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My mate made a start on the brake piping while I did what I do best... Filing and organising.. 

 

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Anyway, on to the more important (and interesting..) stuff:

 

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We had the 306 bracket (I had previously adjusted it to fit in the 205 engine bay utilising the same mountings as the original ABS bracket that sits behind the battery on the chassis leg)

 

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Fortunately the Bosch pump/ controller (no separate ECU in the boot!) is pretty logically labelled, as long as you know (or can deduce) the French for front & back and left and right. So he made a start running the pipes:

 

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The four wheel feeds were all sorted (at least as far as the nest that is the load compensator on the beam..), it turns out that the feed from the front and rear from the master cylinder to the ABS block uses a different union (Male M12 x1.0) and we assume a larger bore pipe (3/8ths rather than 7/16ths?) which I didn't have, so we moved on to pulling the ABS loom into place. Fortunately it's entirely self contained, and if you start at the ABS block, point the feeds and plugs at the relay box at the front, the rest of the loom essentially falls into place. Again, we chucked the rear wheels under the car and will tackle later when we sort the rear plumbing.

 

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Next up was the interior/dash loom. A lot of the (with hindsight, largely pointless..) 'enhancements' I made were added after the dash & loom were fitted, so my mate had to do a hell of a lot of unpicking and re-routing before he could make sense of where everything went. We introduced a few more connectors for things that made sense to be removable, fortunately I had a spare loom (or two...) and bucketloads of male & female pins for the colour coded connector plugs.

 

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And that's pretty much up to date! Which I don't think is bad progress for a couple of days with two of us. 

I'll tackle the rest of the stocktake & organisation, as well as ordering the few parts to finish plumbing in the brakes. I'll make one 'good' heater box out of the two that I have (both A/C equipped) ready to refit as part of the continuation of the wiring fettling. 

 

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Until next time...

20 hours ago, Leslie green said:

Great to see you cracking on with this Craig , id imagine the rust was a bit of a surprise on such a mint looking car 

 

Yeah, very true. I mean, originally it was pretty rusty in all of the typical Phase 2 places (inner wings, rear quarter bumper mount/buffer, behind the wheel arch water pipe etc) but it was surprising (at least to me) that the body seam sealer had failed so significantly, particularly on the interior protected by the insulation & carpet as to let moisture creep in..

Edited by cRaig
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welshpug

The abs still uses 3/16 (4.75mm)   pipe in the M12x1 unions.

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cRaig
Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, welshpug said:

The abs still uses 3/16 (4.75mm)   pipe in the M12x1 unions.

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Is there any 80s-90s Peugeot related fact or detail that you don't know!?! :o I think you could do worse than pick it for your specialist subject on Mastermind...:lol:

Amazing, thanks! :)

Edited by cRaig

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welshpug

You Would have the same unions in the original brake pressure limiters on one side from memory

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cRaig

We are looking to plumb in the master cylinder - There are two larger inputs on the ABS block are marked MC1 and MC2. Is it logical to assume that MC1 is the front circuit and 2 is the rear from the Master Cylinder? :huh::)

Edited by cRaig

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welshpug

I would follow that logic too, however I don't think it matters as its the outputs that are regulated.

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