Bugger Bugger

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Taking Mrs to work this morning and coming off a roundabout I heard something snap and lost the clutch pedal. Had a look and saw it was a snapped clutch cable. Not a massive hinderance but had to get the car recovered to my usual MOT garage who I trust.

 

Just called them now to ask about the car being ready tomorrow and been told it needs a new clutch too

 

Certainly not doubting the honesty of the garage but this clutch has only done 29,000 miles and in my ownerhsip has never been launched at high revs or tracked etc.

 

Any ideas on how much it would cost to do a clutch for a garage that charge £30p/h labour. I'm seriously skint and ringing vigorously round mates/family to try scrape together money. Sh1t

[Jose 0]

i would find out why it needs a new clutch aswell, if the cable had clearly snapped then i would be thinking they might just be trying to drum up work, if they do replace it then ask to see the old one and even then you dont know for sure they didnt damage it

Edited December 2, 2009 by Jose

[Anthony 1,000]

Unless they've removed the gearbox, how do they know that the clutch needs replacing?

 

If it's a BE1 gearbox, my suspicion would be that they've replaced the cable without the link bar (which falls off onto the road when the cable snaps 99% of the time) and are assuming that the now non-functional clutch is goosed

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

i would find out why it needs a new clutch aswell, if the cable had clearly snapped then i would be thinking they might just be trying to drum up work, if they do replace it then ask to see the old one and even then you dont know for sure they didnt damage it

 

 

I genuinely don't dount their integrity mate. The boss has rung me up and said that even after replacing the clutch cable, the pedal would not move. From his previous experience of rallying them and building gearboxes etc, he said it's the clutch. Guys very busy currently too so can't start on it until Monday/Tuesday next week at the earliest.

 

With the recovery from earlier, new clutch kit, cable etc and all the labour thats gonna be involved, I'm looking at £400. Thats if the clutch takes 5.5 hours as per the computer systems recommendations. Gulp.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Unless they've removed the gearbox, how do they know that the clutch needs replacing?

 

If it's a BE1 gearbox, my suspicion would be that they've replaced the cable without the link bar (which falls off onto the road when the cable snaps 99% of the time) and are assuming that the now non-functional clutch is goosed

 

I'll ask to see the clutch Anthony, is the link bar at the top as I think it was still there earlier when I looked.

 

(Just to add the cable snapped right at the end where the adjustment bolts are, not further up in the engine bay - dunno if this makes any difference).

Edited December 2, 2009 by chocolate_o_brian

[Anthony 1,000]

The link bar goes between the clutch arm and the L-shaped arm the clutch cable pulls. From memory, it's about 40mm long and about 6mm diameter.

 

If your 205 is missing the spring that holds the two together (as 99% are these days) then you almost certainly will have lost the bar and the clutch won't work - it's only the tension on the clutch cable that holds the bar in place, so snapped cable means it just falls out onto the road below. Unless they're used to BE1 boxes, they won't expect that bar to be there and will hence overlook its absence and assume the clutch is at fault.

 

Definately check it anyway before they start pulling off the gearbox and needlessly replacing the clutch!

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

The link bar goes between the clutch arm and the L-shaped arm the clutch cable pulls. From memory, it's about 40mm long and about 6mm diameter.

 

If your 205 is missing the spring that holds the two together (as 99% are these days) then you almost certainly will have lost the bar and the clutch won't work - it's only the tension on the clutch cable that holds the bar in place, so snapped cable means it just falls out onto the road below. Unless they're used to BE1 boxes, they won't expect that bar to be there and will hence overlook its absence and assume the clutch is at fault.

 

Definately check it anyway before they start pulling off the gearbox and needlessly replacing the clutch!

 

 

Ah it makes sense now

 

I'll possibly get down sometime before they start work as it seems weird a clutch would last so little time (19,000 miles not 29,000 as stated). I'm just hoping nothing more sinister like a deaded gearbox occurs too - probably me worrying about crap to be fair.

 

He did say it was seized up and not like flopping or pulling. When I tested it this morning after the cable snapped, I could pull the sheared end and it moved the pedal. He can't do this now.

 

Luckily through a couple family members and the inlaws I've got the money together for the worst case scenario. These things are sent to test us at the most inappropriate time so you take the rough with the smooth (and the twisties with the straights ).

 

Thanks for the input guys, I'm walking everywhere for the next week!

[welshpug 1,626]

has it been fairly stiff of late?

 

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

has it been fairly stiff of late?

 

 

It had actually. I had to adjust the cable a lot recently as the biting point was right at the bottom on the floor. The cable was a major bitch to adjust too as it was all seized up and the pedal kept clicking. Certainly didn't look or feel under 2 years old!

 

The clutch and cable were done at a franchise called Mr Clutch in Sheffield I believe.

Edited December 2, 2009 by chocolate_o_brian

[welshpug 1,626]

DOH!

 

that name never instills confidence, if it has been quite stiff I'd definitely check and replace the bushes on the pivot pictures not just the cable.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

DOH!

 

that name never instills confidence, if it has been quite stiff I'd definitely check and replace the bushes on the pivot pictures not just the cable.

 

Will do. I'm gonna have a chat to the mechanic tomorrow to let him know I've got the ££ so he can start next week. Due to work I haven't really got chance to get down there, plus it's a fair walk

 

Clutch was literally new when I bought the car last June so I will not use Mr Clutch.

[mr_exe 1]

The clutch and cable were done at a franchise called Mr Clutch in Sheffield I believe.

 

That says it all. One of their tricks was to put a new friction plate in and re-fit the old pressure plate if you did'nt fall for the old 'We got the box off and it needs X,Y and Z line.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

That says it all. One of their tricks was to put a new friction plate in and re-fit the old pressure plate if you did'nt fall for the old 'We got the box off and it needs X,Y and Z line.

 

As said was done before my ownership but wouldn't suprise me.

 

At worst I'll know the clutch has been replaced by a reputable garage I trust so it only leaves the gearbox and engine to die as the rest is bloody new nearly. When it comes to selling it, some bugger is gonna get a bargain I'm telling you!

[Pob 1]

As said was done before my ownership but wouldn't suprise me.

 

At worst I'll know the clutch has been replaced by a reputable garage I trust so it only leaves the gearbox and engine to die as the rest is bloody new nearly. When it comes to selling it, some bugger is gonna get a bargain I'm telling you!

 

The clutch cable snapped on me a while back. I have a BE1 gearbox and as said the pin was lost. Got a new pin and clutch cable and the pedal was solid and pretty much to the floor. Check the clutch arm is still attached to the ball joint. The bush on the clutch release arm partially fell off causing the arm to twist when pressing the clutch. To cut a long story short I had to buy a new arm and it's perfect now.

 

I know alot of people will say 'I've never had problems with pattern clutch cables' But I fitted a new pattern clutch cable and it was seriously stiff, so much so it was flexing the bulk head... I thought it was the clutch, replaced it and still seriously stiff. Fitted a genuine cable and silky smooth... I wouldn't fit a pattern clutch cable after that hassle

 

Dan

Edited December 3, 2009 by Pob

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

WELLLLLLLL....

 

Just had a phone call from the garage and it's good news. He found that the link arm was there but broken and the pring was missing. So instead of taking the 'box off he ordered a new bar in with a spring (not sure if it was a total link bar or not) and fitted that to start with. A bit of fiddling around and the clutch is all good. To be fair to the guy he told me straight away and has saved me a bundle on a new clutch/labour costs. A lot of garages wouldn't have done that and just fitted the new clutch so it reaffirms my trust in him.

 

So new link bar/other bar fitted, new clutch cable and accelerator cable (I asked for this as it was on its way out), recovery and labour - £136 instead of £400

 

Thank feck for that, gonna get some decent linkage rods with the cash I've saved as they are dying a horrible death too!

[happygoron 2]

Thank feck for that, gonna get some decent linkage rods with the cash I've saved as they are dying a horrible death too!

 

Speak to miles for them, easy to change too.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Speak to miles for them, easy to change too.

 

Baker BM sells them too, I'll have to see whats what with them

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Well got her back today and shes all better. The clutch is very heavy now but assume this is the new cable bedding in. Was stiff but after a drive it's just heavy and not clumpy any more. Accelerator cable I'm hoping may have sorted my irratic idle so it's a case of getting her set up at Skip Browns or whoever soon as.

[Anthony 1,000]

The clutch is very heavy now but assume this is the new cable bedding in.

A new cable shouldn't need to "bed in"

 

That said, most BE1 equipped 205's that I've driven have had fairly heavy clutches - worth checking and lubing the pivot mentioned earlier in the thread though, as that'll make a big difference if it's siezed up.

[Galifrey 1]

A new cable shouldn't need to "bed in"

 

That said, most BE1 equipped 205's that I've driven have had fairly heavy clutches - worth checking and lubing the pivot mentioned earlier in the thread though, as that'll make a big difference if it's siezed up.

 

 

Agree with this, my BE1 clutch was nasty heavy, the BE3 is feather light.

[welshpug 1,626]

my BE1 is nice and light, as its had the bushes replaced an an o.e cable fitted, 13k miles ago!

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

Hmm, dunno then. Maybe its because it had no spring in before? Would some copper grease suffice to lube it up with? The pic which was posted earlier; can someone show me which bit to grease up please.

[welshpug 1,626]

I wouldn't use copper grease as it contains metal particles, just normal grease like you'd used for a CV joint etc.

[chocolate_o_brian 0]

I wouldn't use copper grease as it contains metal particles, just normal grease like you'd used for a CV joint etc.

 

Can't say I've ever done one. I'll scan the Halfords site, see whats what. It's very heavy compared to before put it that way.

 

Oooh, something of this page any good? http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/...1&langId=-1

Edited December 8, 2009 by chocolate_o_brian

[welshpug 1,626]

comma multi purpose grease probably most suitable.

 

though it it really is that heavy i'd replace the bushes first of all, about £1.50 for the pair I think, make sure you have the correct washers on the bolt/pivot.