Diy Tracking

[Snowman 0]

OK- Here goes an explanation of how to do your own tracking.

I'm not explaining how to alter it (someone else can have that honour)- only how to check it.

 

Right.

 

Park your car on flat level ground where you can get right around it. Make sure the wheels are as straight as possible.

 

Then set 4 axle stands to the height of the centre of the hub nut.

Place 2 stands at the back of the car and 2 at the front. Just in from the outside edge of the car.

 

You then need 2 very straight lengths of bar (broomstick etc) which are just wider than the car by about 5 cm either side.

These need a groove cutting around near either end. These should be in EXACTLY the same place on both bars and the distance between the two grooves should be approximately 4cm wider than the track of the car (find that out for yourself). =I============I= <--a bit like that!

 

You then want to lay one stick on top of each pair of axle stands. One at the front, one at the rear.

They should protrude the side of the car by a roughly equal amount each end.

 

Then get some fishing line and join the sticks together on each side laying the line into the grooves on the sticks.

This effectively makes a box around your car.

 

This next bit takes the time and is VERY important.

 

You need to make this box perfectly square around your car.

Do this by using a metal ruler and measuring from each hub on your wheels to the string (which should be at the same height).

You'll then need to tap the sticks backward and forwards until the measurements are IDENTICAL (to at least0.5mm) on all four corners.

Make sure you measure from the same place on every wheel. The top edge of the centre hole is advised. But you need to be as close to the centre of the stub axle as you can.

If you remove all the centre caps before starting then you can use the hub nut itself.

Get a friend to help if you can and treble check your work to ensure it's perfect. Remember you will be working in fractions of millimetres here. Also note that when you've done the rear the front will have moved and vice-versa. That's why you have to check and re-check.

 

Now you have your perfect box you can check your tracking.

 

Move to the front of the car and measure from the back of the wheel (not the tyre!) to the string. Lets say this is 5mm.

Then do the same at the front of the wheel. Lets say this is 7mm.

 

You therefore have a toe-in of 2mm on this side. Do the same the other side and there you go.

 

It is important to note that there are many factors that can mess this up for you.

These are mainly down to inaccuracies in your measuring but another one is wheel damage.

As you should be measuring from the outer rim of the wheel then any kerbing here will put your results out.

Think about this when you park your car and try to get the wheels in a good position.

Also ensure that you have driven your car to the spot where you are to do your set up. Don't jack it up and put it down before you start.

You need the car to be settled on it's suspension before you start- it's worth bouncing up and down on each sill to settle it before you 'string' it.

Also check your tyre pressures first.

 

Now if you doubt this method then I'll just say that I've set up many many many cars doing it- all of them more important than any of yours or mine. (No offence there!)

Last time I did my own car I had it checked and I was less than 0.25mm out overall. That was using bent bits of wood and on a slope.

 

I can do a diagram if someone can host it for me...

 

I hope it all makes sense!!

 

Chris

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

I'm sure it works but thats a very VERY long way round of doing it. With two people, a tape measure and two longish straight edges you can do it surprisingly accurately, done it quite a few times with my father.

 

Just place one straight edge on each tyre and carefully measure the distance front and back of the tyre, difference is your tracking (approximately but was always good engough. You do have to be careful to avoid the buldge where the trye touches the ground though.

 

Once complete you can take it somewhere that will check it for free, pay for adjustment!

 

Rob

[Snowman 0]

You're right- it does take some time the first time.

However once you've got the equipment ready it can be done in a few minutes and it's the most accurate way of doing it other than laser tracking. All teams that I know use this method.

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

Yeah, my method is very rough and ready. Can also be a pain in the bum with low suspension cause bodywork gets in the way!

 

Rob

[base-1 17]

 

is tracking that expensive?! lol

[Guest PacMan]

About £15 last time i had it done!

[Snowman 0]

Well either way mine is cheaper and more accurate.