Help White Smoke

[Galifrey 1]

Please stop using stupid acronyms, at a guess!

 

Ah JFDI is well known tho, and politer than writing just f***ing do it!

[stimpysaurus 0]

Ah JFDI is well known tho, and politer than writing just f***ing do it!

I'm suprised it hasn't turned up on all of my threads then

[mitch205gti 1]

Think I'm going to just fix this engine, and leave the GTi6 till a later date.

Think I'm also going to let someone who knows what he's doing sort it as I'm a bit heavy handed and don't trust my self.

Tom sent you a message.

Edited November 23, 2009 by mitch205gti

[mitch205gti 1]

After speaking to a mate today he's offered to give me a hand to do this my self, working all week and out on Saturday so will start it next Sunday, this will give me time to have a good read up on it and get it all clear in my head before starting.

Already been out and clean my garage up in preparation.

So fingers crossed it will all go OK.

Edited November 23, 2009 by mitch205gti

[mitch205gti 1]

Well after starting and not getting very far with work, Christmas, a bad back and been a lazy bugger finally got round to getting the head off my car and found this

 

So now need to take head to get skimmed, can I just take the full head in and let them remove all the valves etc, skim the head and reassemble so I can just chuck the head back on? I've already removed the exhaust manifold.

 

This is a pic of the head

 

Thanks

 

Mitch

[woodsy 0]

Yeah mate just take the head in with valves etc in position.You should get it back with it ready to bolt on.Dont forget the bigger spacer on the headbolt above waterpump as loads people make that mistake.Lube the new headbolts and take your time tightening them down.Last time i done my mi motor i used the puma racing torque settings as doing the haynes manual torque is horrible when you get to 300 degrees especially if the threads in block are not that great.

[mitch205gti 1]

Phoned a place up and the bloke said yeah just bring it down mate, got there and spoke to a grumpy old bloke who muttered something about they will have to come out etc and you will have to put it back together or something so not sure what it will come back like, will just have to see.

Now have to get all gasket set etc, was going to ask there but can't be doing dealing with a grumpy old bloke lol, what are GSF like for prices on head set and bolts etc??

Edited February 15, 2010 by mitch205gti

[DamirGTI 327]

Remove the camshaft first in order to release the pressure from valve train , in order to level out the valves so that they're in fully closed position inside the chambers , beneath the head sealing base .. of course , when you remove the cam , you'll need to remove the followers and the adjusting shims as well (cos they'll drop out if left inside without the cam in position ..) so take 8 PVC bags and label them so that you know on which position follower+shim needs to go during the assembly , and wrap inside the bag follower with the adjusting shim ...

 

Take care when refitting adjusting shims back on the valve steam - one side of the shim is square and another one is slightly radiused -> it needs to be fitted on the valve steam with the radiused side UP .. so square side on the bottom on the valve steam and radiused facing UP , towards the follower ..

 

Can leave/refit the cam bearing caps back when you remove the cam or could store them until you get the head back from the machining .. as you wish ..

 

Damir

[mitch205gti 1]

Remove the camshaft first in order to release the pressure from valve train , in order to level out the valves so that they're in fully closed position inside the chambers , beneath the head sealing base .. of course , when you remove the cam , you'll need to remove the followers and the adjusting shims as well (cos they'll drop out if left inside without the cam in position ..) so take 8 PVC bags and label them so that you know on which position follower+shim needs to go during the assembly , and wrap inside the bag follower with the adjusting shim ...

 

Take care when refitting adjusting shims back on the valve steam - one side of the shim is square and another one is slightly radiused -> it needs to be fitted on the valve steam with the radiused side UP .. so square side on the bottom on the valve steam and radiused facing UP , towards the follower ..

 

Can leave/refit the cam bearing caps back when you remove the cam or could store them until you get the head back from the machining .. as you wish ..

 

Damir

 

Thanks for the advice mate but I've already took it in complete, so will just have to see what it comes back like. Bloke on phone seemed very helpfull and said we may be able to do it with valves still in so just bring it down but old bloke who served me when I got there mumbled about having to remove all valves etc and something about putting it back together when it comes back so will just have to see!

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Where did you take the head?

[mitch205gti 1]

Where did you take the head?

 

The one you suggested behind Meadowhall.

[woodsy 0]

If you gave them the head complete you should get it back complete i would get the valve stem seals changed aswell mate but they should do this

if they take the valves out anyway.

[SurGie 54]

Quick the American Indians are coming.

[mitch205gti 1]

Got round to doing more on the car today and after struggling to get the head back on (think I had the engine too high) I'm now having problems with the timing belt.

Both dowels line up but when I put the timing belt on its a couple of teeth out:

 

Anyone have any ides what is wrong?

 

Cheers

 

Mitch

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Not 100% from the pics, but try turning the belt around- the engine rotates clockwise as looking at the bottom crank pulley- it looks like you have the arrow pointing anticlockwise.

[jord294 87]

cambelt is on back to front

 

EDIT: beat me too it tom

Edited March 9, 2010 by jord294

[mitch205gti 1]

tried it other way first but was miles out:

 

This is the belt im using

[jord294 87]

if i remember correctly.

 

between both white lines sould measure approx 18.5"

 

that is from cam pulley to bottom crank pulley at it's straightest length

[mitch205gti 1]

Will go and check tomorrow, had enough for today!

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

To be honest I don't normally bother with the lines on the belt, so long as both dowels go in the cam pulley and crank pulley correctly it should be correct. With the plugs out and the belt on and tensioned turn it over carefully with a socket on the main crank pulley bolt, it should turn over smoothly with no tight spots or nasty noises.

 

Remember that the lines will only ever line up the first time the belt is put on, as soon as you turn it they will not line up again no matter how much you turn it clockwise. (well, OK they probably will eventually, but you will be there a long long time!)

 

Are the white paint marks ones you have made from the old belt, this could be the problem if so?

[woodsy 0]

As said i wouldnt worry about the white lines on belt either, so long as the crank and cam are locked in right position and its tensioned it should be ok.Best bet is too tension it and turn it by hand and make sure the pins go back in correct position.If so happy days

[mitch205gti 1]

Tested it by hand first and all was fine so connected everything back up and it started first time except had a water leak from thermostat, but a new gasket solved that, but the bigger problem is the what was a hair line crack in the exhaust manifold is now blowing like a bugger

Anyone in the Sheffield area with a good manifold for sale?