[car_upgrade] My 205 8vt Project

[Jamal 2]

Some interesting info's.

 

My 2 slim rad fans are working specially. At the first grade both spinning slow(wired to cascade) but on the second grade they spinnig fast(wired parallel)

To do this I used the Xantia's fan relay box. I choose this because I feared that the two 80W fan will kill the fan switch.

 

The second sweet thing is the boost gauge. I will post a few pics tomorrow about it

Edited November 16, 2009 by Jamal

[sonofsam 5]

Thank You!

I'm doin' my best

 

Can You tell me something about this?

 

Im sorry I never got round to fitting it!, send craigf90 a PM as im pretty sure He wired in a similar tacho adaptor using

a couple of diodes like that box of tricks

 

 

Its all about the boooost gauge

[Jamal 2]

I'am using the standard length bottom mount. Do I need to extend it? Maybe my exhaust shop will tell the truth

[pablo 0]

it only needs extended to clear the servo which clearly isnt an issue for you. Mine was running a std mount when I got it, but I got mine extended 15mm to allow a little more clearance to the servo.

 

Lucky LHDer!!!

[Jamal 2]

it only needs extended to clear the servo which clearly isnt an issue for you. Mine was running a std mount when I got it, but I got mine extended 15mm to allow a little more clearance to the servo.

 

Lucky LHDer!!!

 

 

So the downpipe fit clearly with the std bottom mount. It's great!

 

How does the axles feels with the extended mount? Or it isn't a problem?

[Galifrey 1]

Looking good Jamal, and on top of the quality job on the car, a quality job on the thread as well.

 

[Jamal 2]

Looking good Jamal, and on top of the quality job on the car, a quality job on the thread as well.

 

 

 

Thanks!

And apologies for my english

[Galifrey 1]

Thanks!

And apologies for my english

 

Never apologise for your english unless your audience can speak fluent hungarian mate.

 

[pablo 0]

the pics do all the talking for me

[Jamal 2]

Here is the boost gauge

 

Maybe I mentioned, but I don't have pin 3 on the injection double relay. And it's original. In every wiring diagrams I see that from pin 3 a wire goes to the ECU pin 27. Is this wire really needed or it's okay, because it's original?

[pablo 0]

Oh I like that! Any pics in daytime?

[Jamal 2]

Oh I like that! Any pics in daytime?

Will take some pics tomorrow. I built it into the instrument. Was a pretty hard job, but worth it. I hate hang-on gauges

[Ludi 2 2 Cars]

That thing with boost gauge is excellent.

 

Very nice job.

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

I also think that boost gauge is very neat and clever, I'd be interested to see pictures of how you did it.

[Jamal 2]

I also think that boost gauge is very neat and clever, I'd be interested to see pictures of how you did it.

 

I bought a gauge, and stripped it down. Ignored the housing and illumination PCB, only used the numberplate(sorry I don't know the proper name of this) and the gauge itself.

 

Drilled 2 little holes under the rev, marked the gauge plate edge onto the rev plate, and with a knife cut out the area under. Used sprayable clear glue to fix the gauge plate.

 

The gauge was too big, so I relocated the rev's PCB to the back of the instrument.

(Under the PCB You can see the back of the gauge)

 

Thats all

[DaveW 6]

Thats so smart and clever! i like that alot

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

Really good job all-round, especially the gauge - I haven't seen it since mattcony done it, years ago, utilising a vague R5GTT gauge IIRC.

[jackherer 543]

Very neat, Mattcony did something similar back in the day with a Renault 5 GT turbo gauge, I tried to find a pic but failed, someone must have one?

 

Edit: Beaten by cybernck, but only because I didn't have permissions to post in this forum earlier

Edited November 17, 2009 by jackherer

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

Not the best of photos, but it will do .

[Jamal 2]

I so pissed off.

 

The wastegate solenoid is OK, now I have got 2 of them. It has got the 12V but doesn't close. The dual relay is clicking all the time the engine idling, and if I rev the engine the clicking is getting faster. And the immo isn't working good.

 

I think my ECU is half dead, and this is the source of all the failure.

 

Today I bought some parts.

(An absorber for the MAP sensor and the boost gauge, the wg solenoid, the one and only oil temp sensor)

[pablo 0]

you could bypass the solenoid just to get it running ok, should only boost to 0.3bar ish depending on what way the arm is set.

[Jamal 2]

you could bypass the solenoid just to get it running ok, should only boost to 0.3bar ish depending on what way the arm is set.

 

Not the boost is my main problem. I think the ECU is a piece of s*it. I will put in a good one and test the car.

I strated the conversation with the idea keeping the immo, but now I want it out as fast as it can be

When the solenoid is open and the arm is on factory default should boost is only 0,3 bar?

[pablo 0]

yes the actuator needs to open the wastegate at a low psi. The solenoid holds boost back from the actuator until its told to open it (at your desired boost, eg 1bar). So the actuator needs to be set below your minimum boost, so it will close when the solenoid opens.

 

hope that makes sense.

[Jamal 2]

I so pissed off.

 

The wastegate solenoid is OK, now I have got 2 of them. It has got the 12V but doesn't close. The dual relay is clicking all the time the engine idling, and if I rev the engine the clicking is getting faster. And the immo isn't working good.

 

Hopefully not the double relay clicking. It is the evap valve, and it has to do that clicking

It was fasten near to the double relay, and I the clicking was sensible on the relays housing.

 

Bud the immo is still a piece of s*it, and the wg solenoid isn't working jet. Maybe the ECU is in service program or protecting mode?

[Jamal 2]

Today I made the first testdrive with a working ECU in the car. I have to tell You driving the car first time since february is a great-great thing

And the boooost

 

I noticed something that has to be modified. It is the cooling system. I will use the water joiner at the back of the block from an XU10J2 Automatic or XU10J4, because these blocks has got water joiners with 3 small inlets. One for the turbo, one for the heater matrix, and one for the header tank.

Edited November 21, 2009 by Jamal