Mi16 Reliability

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

but there are a few out there that haven't been looked after properly and are therefore pretty unreliable, correct?

 

Well naturally that's correct, just as it would be about any engine or other piece of machinery!

[Ludi 2 2 Cars]

MUST KEEP OIL TOPPED UP (is what I force myself to say 50 times just before I go to bed)

 

 

:D :D

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

I'm fed up of saying it over and over again, but you can have a 1.9 mi16 that doesn't surge whatsoever with nothing more than a PTS sump baffle ie. it is possible. I know, because I had one, and that was an engine that spent NONE of it's life on the road and ALL of it's life on tarmac rally stages. Hence the suggestion above that, most of the time, I suspect it's just a badly built motor that suffers it - although granted I wouldn't risk it without a baffled sump. It's all here just my opinions, but I 'aint lying.

[24seven 104]

Read my sig, you'll see my stance on oil surge .

 

Having stripped my engine down after the surge, it was overdue a rebuild and was fairly coked up in places. Soon as I'm able I'm going to get a spare head and look into what causes the draining issue in the first place, but meanwhile a baffled sump and extended pickup will be going on to increase capacity (plus an oil cooler for a further increase when funds allow) and increase my chances when surge does hit. Otherwise there's no reason why an Mi16 should be any less reliable than anything else.

 

Actually to compare to a more modern engine, Ford 1.6 Zetec, that I stripped & rebuilt in the last 3 weeks at uni, our Mi16s are very reliably designed! These zetecs had no mechanical grip between the cam pulleys and the camshafts, nor between the lower cambelt pulley and the crankshaft. They relied entirely upon friction generated by a single bolt through the pulleys on all 3 (bear in mind that on an interference fit engine if any of those bolts isn't tight enough then bye bye). Not only that, the main & crank pin bearings were quite narrow as were the camshaft bearings which tapered to roughly 7/8mm in the middle, plus no spray bars.

[Guest chrisw]

Well naturally that's correct, just as it would be about any engine or other piece of machinery!

For sure, what i should've said is- like any other engine the poorly maintained or badly built....etc

 

Is Longman one of the best tuners there is for pugs then? As obviously never being into tuned peugeots before i've never heard of him, i did google the name, but got pages and pages of cars for sale and projects etc....

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Longman used to build the BTCC engines for the Peugeot works cars. They are one of the very best.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

A good Mi will last, I'm one of the few that remember's them new and then there were OK, As Baz has said old worn out Mi's which do wear + the big end bearings from around 80,000 road miles wear not helping matter's either.

 

My old MI lasted a complete Race season before going bang, Not bad for a std lump with some T/B's, 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and cam's, Spent most of it's life upto 8500rpm with std lifter's and the rod bolt broke, Std item so I can;t complain too much.

 

I know I'll get shot for this but the XU 10 sump doesn;t solve the problem, Only mask's it by adding extra oil which there's enough in the engine's anyway, + it has the problem of lowering the sump below the grounding out line of the car so on track not very good for Kerb hopping or our nice speed humps

[Guest chrisw]

Longman used to build the BTCC engines for the Peugeot works cars. They are one of the very best.

Excellent, i'm glad i bought it then. Just got to look after it now, and avoid long corners by the sounds of it lol

[James_m 0]

All Mi16's are not the same for oil surge. I have no idea why but its the only explanation of the wildly differing experiences! I suspect it might be tolerences in the head castings but thats a wild guess.

[philfingers 5]

this is what I did with my Mi and 10k miles later and not seen any surge at all. I have a reliable mechanical gauge too. BUT as Miles says, they drop the sump level . . . .a lot!

[PVFCpug 6]

Did this with my MI and it definately does not surge guaranteed Reliable as hell. Its just everything else on the 205 that f***ing breaks

 

 

 

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You say Longman WHERE the best but look at the 405 TC engine's, Low and power and they went bang allot, Compare them with Sodemo and it's like Chalk and cheese

Thankfully the 306 engine's where allot better thou

[Galifrey 1]

Did this with my MI and it definately does not surge guaranteed Reliable as hell. Its just everything else on the 205 that f***ing breaks

 

Dry Sump, the only certain cure for oil surge issues...

 

Had one on my ZX12R car, it was awesome.

 

 

People come up with allsorts to stop the problem, swinging pickups, accusump, etc etc, but Dry Sump is a sure fire winner...

 

Shame they cost more than the car

[Baz 421]

I'm fed up of saying it over and over again, but you can have a 1.9 mi16 that doesn't surge whatsoever with nothing more than a PTS sump baffle ie. it is possible. I know, because I had one, and that was an engine that spent NONE of it's life on the road and ALL of it's life on tarmac rally stages. Hence the suggestion above that, most of the time, I suspect it's just a badly built motor that suffers it - although granted I wouldn't risk it without a baffled sump. It's all here just my opinions, but I 'aint lying.

 

Totally agreed, and as have i, more than one.

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

I also have an Mi16 engine in a track car that uses slicks, that does not surge, and that is monitored by an SPA digital oil press/temp gauge.

[Baz 421]

All Mi16's are not the same for oil surge. I have no idea why but its the only explanation of the wildly differing experiences! I suspect it might be tolerences in the head castings but thats a wild guess.

 

Differences in driving styles too IMO.

[Galifrey 1]

It's all here just my opinions, but I 'aint lying.

 

I run Redline 10w40 racing oil. A thin 0w40 oil definately shows lower pressure when hot. Chances are a thin 0w40 like Mobile 1 would be fine for general fast road use, but for track or race work a thicker oil is a safer bet. I've heard the arguments about internal friction but I'd rather save my engine and lose a few fractional measures of power!

 

When I read a paragraph like that, it is temptation to just stop reading. Anyone that thinks 10w-40 is thicker than 0w-40 at high temps is clearly not anyone to take seriously when taking advice on oil issues!

 

Try a 0w or 10w-50 oil, the lower number with the w only refers to its viscosity at low (winter) temperatures, if the oil pressure was low at high temperatures it was down to other inconsistent factors, or that the other oil is a 10w-45 not a 10w-40 as both oils should be the same viscosity at high temperatures.

Edited October 24, 2009 by Galifrey

[petert 550]

Any type of trap door, baffle, etc., is only ever going to limit oil surge, never cure it. I see a range of 30-80 psi in my car, with 25psi at idle (1200rpm). I regard that as being acceptable for the type of track work I do. A better driver, on full slicks, would push it past the limit. The only real cure is dry sumping. You just have to work out what your limit is. I have been using 10W-60 racing oil but going to give Mobile1 5W-50 a go.

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

I run Redline 10w40 racing oil. A thin 0w40 oil definately shows lower pressure when hot. Chances are a thin 0w40 like Mobile 1 would be fine for general fast road use, but for track or race work a thicker oil is a safer bet. I've heard the arguments about internal friction but I'd rather save my engine and lose a few fractional measures of power!

 

When I read a paragraph like that, it is temptation to just stop reading. Anyone that thinks 10w-40 is thicker than 0w-40 at high temps is clearly not anyone to take seriously when taking advice on oil issues!

 

Try a 0w or 10w-50 oil, the lower number with the w only refers to its viscosity at low (winter) temperatures, if the oil pressure was low at high temperatures it was down to other inconsistent factors, or that the other oil is a 10w-45 not a 10w-40 as both oils should be the same viscosity at high temperatures.

 

Ok, I'll correct the factually incorrect bits. You're right, of course, it shouldn't be any different at highers temps - is it just the fact that it's a better quality oil then? Because all I do know is, when I changed the oil, it got a whole load better.

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

I run Redline 10w40 racing oil. A thin 0w40 oil definately shows lower pressure when hot. Chances are a thin 0w40 like Mobile 1 would be fine for general fast road use, but for track or race work a thicker oil is a safer bet. I've heard the arguments about internal friction but I'd rather save my engine and lose a few fractional measures of power!

 

When I read a paragraph like that, it is temptation to just stop reading. Anyone that thinks 10w-40 is thicker than 0w-40 at high temps is clearly not anyone to take seriously when taking advice on oil issues!

 

Try a 0w or 10w-50 oil, the lower number with the w only refers to its viscosity at low (winter) temperatures, if the oil pressure was low at high temperatures it was down to other inconsistent factors, or that the other oil is a 10w-45 not a 10w-40 as both oils should be the same viscosity at high temperatures.

 

Ok, I'll correct the factually incorrect bits. You're right, of course, it shouldn't be any different at highers temps - is it just the fact that it's a better quality oil then? Because all I do know is, when I changed the oil, it got a whole load better.

[Galifrey 1]

is it just the fact that it's a better quality oil then?

 

It is entirely possible that it operates with more stability outside its normal (road use) range, ie in the extreme conditions of a rally stage. What I mean by that is its viscosity drop off wont be as bad, or maybe its additives allow it a better lubrication of hot parts?

 

I would rate Redline Synth above Mobil 1 anyway, very popular motorsport oil in the states.

[philfingers 5]

this is what I did with my Mi and 10k miles later and not seen any surge at all. I have a reliable mechanical gauge too. BUT as Miles says, they drop the sump level . . . .a lot!

 

doh, missed the link off

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=100177