Gti6 Goes Pop! 2

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

worst case scenario, could it have not bent a conrod very slightly, not enough to be noticed by the naked eye but just enough to slightly effect the compresion ratio on that one cylinder giving you the rough idle?

Hope this isnt the case though mate.

[nick9one1 2]

I dont think so, as the only piston that had any mojor impact was replaced inc. the conrod.

 

I think the problem is down to a sensor/wiring

 

my description wasnt that good earlier, it does iidle ok at about 900, but the engine does shake a bit and the exhaust goes put put put

[philfingers 5]

spitting on your finger and touching the exhaust header will tell you which cylinder is duff, if it's cool then it's duff, or cooler than the others anyway

[nick9one1 2]

fantastic tip!

 

its not firing on cyl 3

 

I guess a check of spark then fuel is in order.

[maxi 36 1 Cars]

spitting on your finger and touching the exhaust header will tell you which cylinder is duff, if it's cool then it's duff, or cooler than the others anyway

 

 

f*** getting your fingers burnt. Just disconnect injectors one by one until you find the culprit (it will make no difference when disconnected).

 

Maxi

[Anthony 1,000]

Compression test would probably be a good start to rule out anything internal as being the issue.

[trialster 0]

Compression test would probably be a good start to rule out anything internal as being the issue.

 

wise words!

 

list of things it could be:

 

plug, ht lead, injector, injector wiring, piece of rag in the inlet fanny mould...

[welshpug 1,622]

no HT leads on these...

[trialster 0]

no HT leads on these...

 

good point, i'm in mi16 mode

[welshpug 1,622]

my Mi16 doesn't have plug leads either

 

 

hope you manage t5ioget to the bottom of it soon Nick, shouldn't take too long though

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I did suggest those tests earlier, such as removing injector plugs one by one. Seems I'm in swahili mode again. As Adam said, f*ck burning your fingers.

 

What's concerning me is whether cyl 3 was the one you replaced the piston in. If it's not, then it's probably just a fuel/connection issue.

 

Comp test will reveal the truth, and hopefully not an ugly one.

 

*Frets a little*

 

Trailster>

piece of rag in the inlet fanny mould

I'd like to hear about that one.

Edited August 6, 2009 by DrSarty

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Incidentally what's this 'MIL' light you mentioned Nick?

Edited August 6, 2009 by DrSarty

[philfingers 5]

the whole purpose of spitting on your finger is so you don't burn it! You're just listening for the 'fizz' as it burns off. You could use a sprayer or WD40 etc too (yes i know it burns, do it at your own risk etc). Either way it's a very quick way of seeing which ones running correctly and which one's not,

 

Phil

[M@tt 77]

MIL = Management Information Light

[gti-si 0]

Idicates a managment fault, so there's a good chance you can relax Rich. Obviously need's a comp test first though

[nick9one1 2]

It was a coil pack! swapped it over and it runs fine

 

now just need to triple check everything is tight, put the covers on the cambelt coilpacks etc and shes good to go!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Yay!!

 

£550 lesson that, with all of Nick's hard work on top!

 

The lesson is BE CAREFUL WHO YOU TRADE WITH!!!!

 

Well done fella. Awesome stuff.

 

EDIT: The other lesson is with a bit of planning, communication, commitment, friendship and regrettably some money difficulties can be overcome. The car I hope will now retain and possibly gain its value over time with continued maintenance and TLC. Maybe I'll get to drive it yet.

Edited August 6, 2009 by DrSarty

[nick9one1 2]

Just take it for a short trip and everything runs great.

 

there was 20 senconds of tapping shortly after i started it up but i guess that was the hydraulic lifters filling up?

 

 

one last problem...

the battery/alternator light is staying on when the keys are out of the ignition.

when the keys are in and at any position/running its not there.

 

It doesnt look like an alternator issue really as the battery reads 14v while running.

 

When its off the amps start at 0.5 and drop down to 0.001 on a multimeter set to 10A. This looks pretty normal to me?

any ideas??

[marksorrento205 80]

Good effort getting it all sorted. Glad its all worked out

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

That battery light thing is weird.

 

Have you disturbed the wiring going to the alternator. Take off / clean and refit might rectify it.

 

I know some GTI6's have immobilisers, so don't do this if it's gonna cause probs, but what about disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it after a few minutes? I.E. force the problem to go away rather than hunt for it.

 

I'm feeling VERY lucky that we got away with this. These little post rebuild niggles are to be expected sometimes and I suspect the charging circuit has just become disturbed. I reckon the disconnect, settle and reconnect will sort it.

 

If not, we'll investigate further.

 

The tappets do take a while to fill, and if I remember you said you'd put in a new filter, new oil and plugs, and this fresh oil will take a while to fill the filter and get up to the head and tappets. Does it run any different (better) than before the 'pop'?

 

Really, really well done Nick.

[nick9one1 2]

Thanks Rich,

 

Yes it does have new oil filter and plugs!

and it does seem to run better, seems smoother and pulls better.

 

I dont think the alternator cables have been disturbed, as the battery voltage goes up from 12 to 14v while running and the alternator light goes out while running.

It is possible that another cable has been disturbed though.

 

The batterys been in and out a few times while testing!

[nick9one1 2]

something is definately draining it, just been out and the batterys flat. I guess thats why the light is on.

 

I have taken each fuse out one by one and none seem to make a difference, apart from 15, which made it go slightly dimmer.

Edited August 6, 2009 by nick9one1

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Right: now I am confused.

 

You said the battery voltage is 14v when running. This is a sign of an alternator doing it's job isn't it, although shouldn't it be nearer 14.4v?

 

But when is it draining? You said the light's on when the key's out of the ignition. That in itself is odd, but is there something draining it when it's not running and the ignition isn't even on?

 

I'm suspecting the battery or alternator. Can you do a swap (i) battery (ii) alternator? Sometimes it's just a process of elimination.

 

Definitely getting there, but confused. Test battery voltage when off; then when ignition on; then when running and see what happens please.

 

We may need a new alternator AND battery still. Not out of the woods yet it seems, but these are what I would call ancilliaries that take worse case 1/2hr to swap. Also please check the power cable routing. Perhaps you've pinched the insulation somewhere?

[gti-si 0]

I very much doubt the light is a fault with the alternator or battery, it shouldn't come on with the ignition on whatever their condition. I'd start looking for a problem with the excite wire or perhaps even the ignition. Unless the alternator ground the excite wire to light it up?

 

I'd go with Rich on a snipped insulated wire or something. Although that doesn't explain a fully drained battery, unless something else is drawing current? So it's very ossible you've a knackered battery. I can't see it being the alternator if your seeing 14v running

 

Just my 2 pence.

Edited August 6, 2009 by gti-si

[Matt Holley 11]

I had this problem with a 306 dt and it was the altenator,the altenator was also getting really hot while it was running.