1905 Mi Service

[fast_eddie 0]

I am getting ever closer to getting my 1905 alloy block 309 on the road again but it has just entered into my head that I have not even considered the engine

 

Obviously I have new oil and filter but I suppose I am going to have to do the cambelt/aux belt, all fluids and potentially the seals on the Webber 45's. The car had been stored with all its fluids in and run very occasionally over the ten years for very short periods of time and has always started after 5 or 6 pumps of the throttle pedal with no smoke to speak of.

 

Am I missing anything else-should I do the water pump whilst I am doing the cam belt?

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Fingers crossed you have kept it with plenty of anti freeze in, as otherwise it will have most likely eaten away at the head gasket fire rings. I would also not be suprised if the valve stem oil seals have gone hard through old age and lack of use. I would also consider doing all 4 cam seals, and the cambelt end crank seal. The flywheel end one I guess you will take a chance on as replacing it means removing the g/box.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Could be wrong, but if those things like valve stem oil seals could deteriorate then I'm guess you're looking at all new consumables, such as if you're going to do the head gasket as advised by Tom, then naturally new head bolts, perhaps the head oil gallery filter, cam cover rubber gasket may be w*nked as might the sump gaskets.

 

You haven't mentioned how many miles are on it, but if I were you then perhaps refurbing the hydraulic lifters wouldn't be a bad idea too. It only takes a morning, soaking them in degreaser, tapping them apart and resoaking, dressing the faces, clean, oil and reassemble and at least you'd be unlikely to suffer a noisy head.

 

The head gasket is the thing though isn't it? Because IF you choose to do it then you might as well do the other bits.

 

Good luck.

Edited July 16, 2009 by DrSarty

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Personally I would do the cam and crank seals, and then see how you get on. I wouldn't pull the head just for the sake of it. But don't be too suprised if it either smokes when hot, or if the head gasket doesn't stand much hard use. But having said that, you might be OK.

[kyepan 291]

I would change all the consumables, crank and cam seals, and other rubber bits + new water pump then put it in.

 

Things like lifters are either going to be worn or not, same with valve guides, they won't just corrode away.

 

When it's in do a compression test, if the head needs to come off you'll find out then, if not, spin it over to get some oil round. and off you go.

 

J

Edited July 16, 2009 by kyepan

[fast_eddie 0]

Last time I started it around a month ago (to move it on and off a trailer) the head 'tapped' for a few seconds then went quiet and I have not seen any oil leaks. I dont mind taking anything apart that needs it and I will check all your recomendations through and decide what to do.

I know I must do the cam belt, so really I may as well do the water pump--Is there a newer design form anywhere in the last ten years or shall I just order from Peugeot?

 

The engine was all taken apart when I got it initially and I put a lot of new bits on it then including all the seals mentioned and it has done probably 40k miles since then on top of its original 22k. The 40k was done on carbs with no filters and it has been a gem of an engine doing loads of track days regularly going to 8k ish.

 

I know stuff doesnt last forever so I will do what a can then give it a run up and see what compression is like and check for leaks.

 

Cheers guys

 

Jon