Service Items?

[fulani 4]

Usually give my 205 to Miles for service time before the MOT, but it looks like he's too busy this year to do it for me. I have done services on simpler cars like Minis and my Allegro before, and did an emergency oil change at the 'ring last year on the 205, so I should be OK.

 

What items do you change on an annual basis? Obviously oil and filter, but should I flush with cheap oil as well? Do I do plugs and leads? I'm running a K&N filter so will give that a clean up, and check power steering and brake fluid levels etc.

 

Anything else I should look at? And any recommendations for brands of kit to get? Any particular spark plugs etc.?

Edited July 7, 2009 by fulani

[welshpug 1,626]

I wouldn't bother changing plugs and leads, but would pull them out and inspect.

 

Look for leaks, corrosion etc.

 

Check brake pads + discs, tyres, suspension bushes and joints, check coolant protection level, change brake fluid if older than 2 years, check PAS fluid for burnt smell/discolouration.

 

Check lights horn wipers, top up washer fluid, check seatbelts.

 

that should get you through the MOT

[richsmells 2]

Drop the oil, replace with a decent semi synth and a Purflux filter. I would do the gearbox oil too, which is just as easy as the engine oil.

 

I would change the plugs if they're old as they're only cheap and easy to do. I can't remember the grade but I searched on here last time I needed it.

 

Leads, rotor arm and dizzy cap are up to you. Again fairly cheap if you shop around. I have had the same (Bosch) leads on for nearly 5 years, despite having a spare set!

 

You can get cleaner and oil for the K&N filters.

 

Inspect your brake disks, pads, cables, bushes etc too.

Edited July 7, 2009 by richsmells

[fulani 4]

Ah yes, I finally have a new horn to fit after 5 years of living with the "peep" tiny horn...wipers are fairly new, brake fluid is a year old. I think the front discs may be a bit worn - how easy is it to change them? I was supposed to be getting some from a trade on here, but the seller seems to have disappeared with my money.

I think the only thing it may fail on is rear handbrake efficiency. Any tips for getting that working any better?

[welshpug 1,626]

rear discs? strip them apart, put them back together with brake grease in the relevant spts, normal grease anywhere else, stomp the pedal a few times to adjust them up (with cables off) re-fit cables and adjust to suit, then go for a drive and drag the handbrake lightly for a few hundred yards to get some heat in them and burn off any corrosion.

[fulani 4]

rear discs? strip them apart, put them back together with brake grease in the relevant spts, normal grease anywhere else, stomp the pedal a few times to adjust them up (with cables off) re-fit cables and adjust to suit, then go for a drive and drag the handbrake lightly for a few hundred yards to get some heat in them and burn off any corrosion.

 

 

Sounds a bit complex for me - not too confident taking vital things like brakes apart!

 

 

It'll need tyres as well as I'm going to Germany in August - anyone had experience with these new Toyo Proxes PX4? http://www.blackcircles.com/information?mo...ductid=10942919

[fulani 4]

Any particular brand of oil or filter I should be looking for? Is this magnatec stuff any good for example?

 

I find the car uses about a litre of oil every 3 months. A very small amount of it leaks from somewhere I haven't worked out yet (not worth bothering with tbh) and the rest is what whisky distillers would call the "angel's share". Anything I can do to stop this happening would be great, as I have forgotten to check for a month or so and it's below the minimum line on the dipstick...

[Anthony 1,000]

Any particular brand of oil or filter I should be looking for? Is this magnatec stuff any good for example?

 

I find the car uses about a litre of oil every 3 months. A very small amount of it leaks from somewhere I haven't worked out yet (not worth bothering with tbh) and the rest is what whisky distillers would call the "angel's share". Anything I can do to stop this happening would be great, as I have forgotten to check for a month or so and it's below the minimum line on the dipstick...

How long ago was the engine rebuilt? Worn/damaged stem seals are the usual cause of oil consumption in my experience - puff of blue smoke on overrun and a general oily smell around the back of the car when idling are usual giveaways. That said, a litre in 3 months isn't anything to worry about at all in my opinion.

 

As for what oil to use, just a decent 10W40 semi-synthetic is fine. I usually use the Total or Fuchs stuff that GSF sell.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

List I would do is

 

1. Citroen Purflux filter (GSF) This is the long service intervial one

2. NGK BCP7ES Plugs

3. Fuch's 10/40 oil (GSF)

4. Gearbox Oil, Fuch's 75/90 (GSF)

 

Rear Brakes need cleaning as working in and out a couple of time's

 

Tyre wise try the old Falken 912's,

 

If you want to take one of my car's I should be able to squease you in

[fulani 4]

If you want to take one of my car's I should be able to squease you in

 

Didn't know you were offering a courtesy car service now!

 

I sent you an email a couple of weeks ago and got no reply. Do remember saying you were busy so didn't want to hassle you. I've bought most of the bits now, so will probably have a go myself and most likely have to call you when it all goes wrong!

 

Only things I don't have yet are replacement HT leads. Are these Splitfire things any good? For an extra tenner over standard leads are they worth it? Or are they snake oil?

 

I had been recommended the Falkens already, probably by you and some others. They have a very similar tread pattern to the Pirelli P6000s which are on there at the moment, and are absolutely rubbish. The similarity does put me off slightly.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Stick with Std leads and NGK plug's, out perform Splitfire all day long

 

The 912 tread pattern is nothing like the P6000's, The older 512's might have been but its the compound of the rubber rather than pattern that gives you the grip

[richsmells 2]

Give me a shout if you need a hand, i'm near Southampton this weekend!

Edited July 8, 2009 by richsmells

[fulani 4]

Stick with Std leads and NGK plug's, out perform Splitfire all day long

 

The 912 tread pattern is nothing like the P6000's, The older 512's might have been but its the compound of the rubber rather than pattern that gives you the grip

 

Ah, I've already bought the Bosch plugs as Halfords didn't have the correct NGKs in. Are they that much better that I should buy them instead and try to return the Bosches? They're the +8 ones...

 

Ordered leads from GSF, then I'll have everything ready to go. I think I'll start with the oil change and air filter, then see how adventurous I feel from there. I am off to the 'ring in August so it could probably do with a bit of TLC before then.

 

Ordering 4x Falken 912s from BlackCircles as well, and the top and bottom strut braces off ebay as no-one has replied to my wanted post...

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Never liked Bosh plugs from having a couple of sets not even working from new, Which confused me at first as it was after a couple of engine swap's so I thought it was something else.

But try them and if they work keep them.

 

Try http://www.falkentyres.co.uk/ for the tyres

[fulani 4]

Try http://www.falkentyres.co.uk/ for the tyres

 

Cheers for that, much cheaper than Black Circles, but would need to get them fitted, and be in for the delivery...

 

 

Strut braces have arrived. Top one looks simple enough, assume it's just a case of removing the three nuts on the top of the strut tower, fitting brace, then replacing nuts?

Not sure where the bottom one goes though. No instructions!

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Pretty sure it mounts on the front wishbone bolts on the subframe, which should be a bloody simple job

[fulani 4]

"Service" done, oil and filter changed, air filter cleaned and two strut braces fitted. A bit apprehensive about the lower strut brace - bit of a weird method of fixing it on, but seems to be solid enough.

This did happen when fitting the top one though. Likely to cause a problem?

 

 

Still need to fit new plugs, but that can wait (I got the NGK ones from GSF as well as the leads). Front discs look a little worn, such a shame they never turned up.

[fulani 4]

Anyone able to offer advice on the strut brace "issue"? Bolt has sheared off!!

[jackherer 543]

Anyone able to offer advice on the strut brace "issue"? Bolt has sheared off!!

 

Drill it through in place and put a bolt in from the wheel arch. Or buy a new top mount, remove and dismantle the strut and replace it properly.

[willmounsey 1]

Drill it through in place and put a bolt in from the wheel arch. Or buy a new top mount, remove and dismantle the strut and replace it properly.

 

Same happened to me, tightened a little too far and 'snap' didn't know there only 12nm on the torque wrench!

I just drilled out and put a bolt up through the arch as jack said, did the job.

 

Will

[MerlinGTI 3]

That top mount is bad, I would get it sorted.

 

No one mentioned fuel filter? I replace mine every 12 months, cheap and easy I only use 10 40 magnitec as well.

 

Maybe consider 6 monthly oil and filter in the future? and yearly for the rest of the gubbins? Espically if a daily driver...