1.6 Afm.

[Rupertfinch 6]

As description suggests, my miami has the 28degree sticker on it's air flow meter and a wee warning bell in my brain is telling me that this isn't the right one. Should I listen to the voices or ignore them?

Mark - 2nd new topic of the day from me, greedy boy!

[welshpug 1,621]

what's the part number on it?

[Rupertfinch 6]

Balls! That's a good point! The car is over at my parents driveway/my car showroom! I'll check later and post up.

[welshpug 1,621]

here's a handy link for you, bookmark it now

 

http://www.atpelectronics.co.uk/Catalogue/peugeot.htm

 

 

part number you want it to be is 0 280 202 056

[humanz 3]

Is there any significance to the degrees on the sticker tho? The reason I'm asking, I just realized my 1.9 is running on an AFM with a 0 280 202 056 part number and a sticker which says 30 degrees. It's a D6a engine. Basically, should it be using this AFM, or one with a different part number? I'm thinking this is the source of all my idling issues.

[welshpug 1,621]

check the link!

 

1.9 Jetronic should be on 0 280 202 109

[humanz 3]

I had checked the link. The thing is, my engine is a D6a, and I'm not sure which engine that would be on the list. But I was thinking it would be the 109 as it's out of a 1986 car.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

I just realized my 1.9 is running on an AFM with a 0 280 202 056 part number and a sticker which says 30 degrees. It's a D6a engine.

Thats a 1.6 GTI AFM so definately not the correct one for your engine but whats your ecu number?

 

check the link!

 

1.9 Jetronic should be on 0 280 202 109

I'm not so sure, with humanz' engine being a XU9JA / D6A then it depends on if its running Jetronic or Motronic in Barbados.

 

Graham.

[humanz 3]

Thats a 1.6 GTI AFM so definately not the correct one for your engine but whats your ecu number?

I'm not so sure, with humanz' engine being a XU9JA / D6A then it depends on if its running Jetronic or Motronic in Barbados.

Graham.

 

Do both Jetronic and Motronic ecus look the same? Because the ECU that's in the car right now, looks the same as the 1.6 ecu in my basement. The numbers are different, so I will have a quick check and tell you. My engine is all confused, much like me

 

It's a Bosch ecu, with number 0 280 000 340, if that's any help. According to the link posted previously, that's a 1.6 Jetronic ecu!

Edited December 21, 2009 by humanz

[welshpug 1,621]

hmmm, right mixed bag of wrong bits then!!

 

afaik the D6A was from a 405, but that should not really matter as long as a complete set of components was used, i.e wiring loom, ecu + AFM.

Edited December 21, 2009 by welshpug

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Its not so bad as it is, at least you have a matching ecu & afm from the same car to start with but the D6A isn't the correct 1.9 GTI engine, it is from either a 405 SRi or BX GTI.

 

The correct ecu for your engine is a Jetronic L3.1 which looking at the ATE link uses the same AFM as the Mi16. 0 280 202 602

 

Graham.

[humanz 3]

I guess the best thing to do is talk to the mechanic that wired it all together. But basically, will I need going to need a matching 405 Bosch L3 Jetronic ecu to go with the 0 280 202 602 AFM?

 

This really should've been a new thread. Can a mod split this thread?

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

I guess the best thing to do is talk to the mechanic that wired it all together. But basically, will I need going to need a matching 405 Bosch L3 Jetronic ecu to go with the 0 280 202 602 AFM?

 

I think your biggest problem will be that the ecu on the L3 is incorporated in the afm iirc.

 

I have one of these from the BX TRi I broke which is (0 280 000 601).

 

Graham.

[humanz 3]

I think your biggest problem will be that the ecu on the L3 is incorporated in the afm iirc.

 

I have one of these from the BX TRi I broke which is (0 280 000 601).

Graham.

 

Here's the thing Graham. I spoke to the mechanic, and apparently to solve some of my early running issues, he removed a 1.9 GTI ecu (0 280 000 359) and replaced it with the 1.6 GTI ecu that's currently in. He returned the 1.9 ecu to me which I now have. Should I still be trying to get a BX afm and ecu, or should I just get an afm to match the spare 0 280 000 359 ecu I have?

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Should I still be trying to get a BX afm and ecu, or should I just get an afm to match the spare 0 280 000 359 ecu I have?

The BX ecu / afm won't fit the 205 GTI loom so I think you'd be best getting all the bits for a 1.9 GTI, saying that though there isn't that much difference between the two & with your engine not being made to use exactly either of the ecu or AFM's so it will still be a compromise.

 

What exactly are your idling issues?

 

Graham.

[humanz 3]

What exactly are your idling issues?

 

Well. First let me say, the car has a cam in it, which has been correctly timed. Here are the problems: The car only has a good idle when the SAD is open. When the SAD is open, the car has a relatively steady nice idle at around 1200rpm. After it's closed, the car's idle fluctuates, then occasionally dips..then fluctuates...then dips...Or rather...it fluctuates, up and down, but progressively averaging lower and lower until it reaches 1000rpm, then it climbs back up to say about 1400rpm. The problem is worsened when the first fan cuts in. The revs fluctuate even lower, to the point where they fall below 1000rpm and the car cuts out, unless I give it some throttle to keep the revs above that minimum. It makes driving in traffic very tedious, as the car's temp goes up and the fan cuts in, and the revs go down, and I have to be giving the car gas while still trying to control the car in stop and go traffic. Not difficult, just really tedious.

 

Here's what's been done so far. Firstly, the timing was adjusted. The ECU was switched with a 1.6 one. The plugs were changed. The plug leads have been changed. The aftermarket coil was replaced with a standard one. The fuel pressure regulator was found to be faulty and replaced with a standard one. The fuel pump was swapped with another.

 

Perhaps a related problem: my battery light has started glowing dimly once the lights are turned on. It gets brighter once more circuits are activated. If I activate the indicators, the revs also dip. Then once the fan cuts in and the dipped beams and indicators are on, the drop in revs is even worse.

 

I'm beginning to wonder if there's a problem with the accessory belt which drives the alternator. I heard a belt making a slight noise this evening when I started the car.

 

Question: can a bad relay cause my fan to draw too much current?

[welshpug 1,621]

sounds like the alternator is on its way out if the light is coming on, I would replace the regulator or the complete unit.

 

mine is doing a similar thing now and is 100% correct in parts and condition of parts so can only think its that now, though my charge light is not coming on (it does work!)

Edited December 23, 2009 by welshpug

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

What cam have you fitted because if it has too much lift/duration the AFM won't like it & this can cause problems like you are having afaik.

 

Even MP3.1 doesn't like cams too wild such as the PTS max torque one.

 

Graham.

[humanz 3]

Even MP3.1 doesn't like cams too wild such as the PTS max torque one.

 

I don't think the cam is too wild. The thing is, the cam doesn't have any codes stamped on it. Timings had to be calculated.

Will try a 1.9 afm, and have the alternator checked out. Not many other things left to check out. Other than idle, car drives perfectly fine, revving up to of 6000 rpm comfortably.