More Bloody Problems.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

 

Went to fit the subframe back onto the car and only 2 bolts will catch and go in... typical. I've ordered new cages for the rear subframe bolts if you know what I mean, the blocks that sit inside the car with captive nuts in. My biggest problem is the chassis rail where the brake compensator sits on that 'bump'. The captive nut seems to have come free typically (only on this side!) and want opinions of what I should do to cure the problem...

 

The engine needs to be back in asap and the shell needs to be rolling asap too so it can go for welding.

 

Please help before I cut this car into cubes.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Any ideas?

[BackStreetRacecars 3]

got any pics? I have a similar problem.... rather interested.... Wasnt aware that you could get into to captive nuts!!

[welshpug 1,626]

can't quite picture it, but is it totally enclosed? if it is there's not a lot you can do bar cut the side of the chassis leg open, tack the nut in place, then weld the leg back up.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

It is pretty much enclosed... there is a slot and a second smaller hole torwards the rear of the chassis leg in the same bump which im contemplating enlarging enough to get a spanner in there for the moment to get the nut in place and the lot tightened up.

 

I can get a picture in a bit to help.

[Super Josh 4]

What's peoples opinion on the best way to remove the subframe bolts so that you don't break away the cage around the nuts?

 

Is it best to go softly, softly on the bolts or to use a rattle gun to shock them free?

 

 

Josh

[willmounsey 1]

What's peoples opinion on the best way to remove the subframe bolts so that you don't break away the cage around the nuts?

 

Is it best to go softly, softly on the bolts or to use a rattle gun to shock them free?

 

 

Josh

 

The first 205 i got i used the rachet and was very gentle with it as the bolt were quite tight but after a few full turns the bloody thing snapped it was an 89 and was very rusty.

 

Long story short i ended up getting a 92 rolling shell and decided to used the air gun in very short bursts and luckily these came out no problem at all.

 

I'd imagine the rattle from the gun would loosen any rust that is caught up in the thread thus putting less pressure on the nut itself?

[TRYNKEEPUP 0]

helicoil ?

[Goliath 94]

What's peoples opinion on the best way to remove the subframe bolts so that you don't break away the cage around the nuts?

 

Is it best to go softly, softly on the bolts or to use a rattle gun to shock them free?

 

 

Josh

 

Try this, works everytime:

 

1) lift carpet and spray end of bolts with WD40 24hrs before removing.

2) Repeat step '1' 10 minutes before removing.

3) Tap the head end of the bolts with a hammer.

4) Undo the bolts as follows to put the least strain on the 'cage': Passenger side - undo the bolt closest to the gearstick first (all the way out), then undo the other one on the passenger side. Drivers side - Undo the bolt furthest from the gearstick first (again, all the way out) then undo the other one.

 

Let me know if that works for you, has always worked for me even on the rustiest of bolts

[GLPoomobile 958]

Try this, works everytime:

 

1) lift carpet and spray end of bolts with WD40 Plusgas 24hrs before removing.

2) Repeat step '1' 10 minutes before removing.

3) Tap the head end of the bolts with a hammer.

4) Undo the bolts as follows to put the least strain on the 'cage': Passenger side - undo the bolt closest to the gearstick first (all the way out), then undo the other one on the passenger side. Drivers side - Undo the bolt furthest from the gearstick first (again, all the way out) then undo the other one.

 

Let me know if that works for you, has always worked for me even on the rustiest of bolts

 

I was totally s*itting myself about removing my subframe after hearing before about dislodged captive nuts in the chassis legs. I just soaked mine in Plusgas for ages and went very gingerly with the ratchet. If I'd had the slightest feeling (that rubbery/stretchy feeling) that it was not going to plan then I would have just aborted. No good for anyone who actually needs to remove their subframe though (I was just swapping mine for a refreshed one). I have no idea if my approach made things a bit better, or if it would have come off without drama anyway. Also, bit difficult to get Plusgas on the front bolts unless you can get a nozzle inside the chassis leg somehow.

 

As for fixing a stray captive nut, I'm sure I've read on here before that the only solution is to cut out a section of the leg to get access to it to weld back in place. Hence why I was so paranoid!

Edited March 30, 2009 by GLPoomobile