mikespug 1 Posted February 24, 2009 hi everyone have been into my pug for about 8 years or so but have never had it on the road as such because of my age and all that but didt have the hart to sell it so just been sat in my garage start her every other week or so and wash it 4 or 5 times a year lol (i must be mad or in love) so im going to get her up and running this year i have a list of jobs to do like ...... clutch.... (got the info on how to do it off here thanks) steering rack gaiters.... (easy or not ?) driveshaft gaiters.... (done befor on another car so should be ok with this) bracks... (can do) service ....(done last year) what else do you lot think i should do or check ? thanks mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RHULPUG 0 Posted February 24, 2009 (edited) Looks tidy! Suggest you get a rear quarter badge for the area where there's one missing and also gets some original light lenses, ph2 would probably suit it best to go with the other lights. Is the rear beam lowered or knackered? Edited February 24, 2009 by RHULPUG Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hexhamstu 9 Posted February 24, 2009 Looks tidy! Suggest you get a rear quarter badge for the area where there's one missing and also gets some original light lenses, ph2 would probably suit it best to go with the other lights. Is the rear beam lowered or knackered? those lenses remind me of someone with cataracts. get em changed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted February 24, 2009 Is the rear beam lowered or knackered? dont no how can i tell ? sorry but new to this those lenses remind me of someone with cataracts. get em changed. lol thanks will look on the bay at ph2 but need to get everything else sorted thanks for your replys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg205 0 Posted February 24, 2009 To check your rear beam open the boot, stand on the sill and bounce, the car should move up and down, evenly, if it doesn't move you need a new beam. If I were you I would check your gear box oil. I'd also check your track rod ends and wishbone bushes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MerlinGTI 3 Posted February 24, 2009 Steering rack gaters are easy peasey mate, your have to have the Tie rod ends off, so mark where they were as accurately as possible. Putting them back in the wrong place will put your toe out. I found the clutch a pain in the ass to do, just warning ya. Check your beam Change your gearbox oil Completely change your brake fluid (full bleed through) Change the rear lights and burn the old ones! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 20, 2009 update only just got round to getting the pug out starting work on her in a min wish me luck lol when i got her out shes smoking really bad witch im not to happy about Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted March 20, 2009 Chances are that it would smoke anyway after being store, but get the ECU temp sensor changed just in case its causing it to overfuel. Before getting it on the road I would change all the fluids, plugs, probably the brake pads and shoes, tyres (as the old ones may well have gone hard); then check all the mounting rubbers haven't perished, take apart the breather pipes and clean up the SAD making sure the hoses are all good. If you can, get the rear suspension beam checked by someone who knows about them (such as Miles on here), if it has been lowered it could have disturbed the seals allowing the insides to corrode. Leave the lights until everything else is sorted. I'm sure I've forgotten something Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted March 20, 2009 (edited) Yeah. Get it mechanically sound (safety first) before faffing with cosmetic stuff. *Get the engine running right - no smoke, good idle and responsive throttle. *Do as advised and make sure the brakes function properly - pads ok (and not stuck to disks), handbrake good and brake fluid 100% refresh *Suspension functioning - beam test as above plus bounce the front corners too to see how they react. *Gears and clutch functioning - sweet selection and good clutch bite and pedal travel Only when the car's mechanically sound - checking it on the drive being fine - should you even risk taking it on the road. Then, finally, approach cosmetic issues. Get some photos of the public burning of those gash light clusters. Edited March 20, 2009 by DrSarty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 20, 2009 lol thanks people suspension front and back look good feels nice and stiff (im on about the car ) got new brakes to go on front and back but what would be the best way to empty all the old brake fluid out ? the ECU temp sensor ? where is it on the car ? and i take it that this would make it run really rich and use loads of petrol ? if so then its gone and need a new one :) all breather pipes been cleaned tonight thanks for all the info if any of you are out my way pop in and get your hands dirty lol 1 last thing where are they most like`ly to rust ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted March 20, 2009 The ECU temp sensor is either on the back of the head, a long way under the dizzy or on the side of the head iirc It has a blue bosch cap and connector. There should be the parts numbers on here somewhere for both Peugeot and GSF (who sell it as a BMW sensor). If it is dead the engine will seriously overfuel, and a new one only costs £10-20 so its well worth replacing. They often rust in the boot, under the rear seats, the front inner arches (often under the headlights) and suspension turrets, the bottom of the door pillar and sometimes the front of the rear arches. Paint bubbles aren't too serious as the shells of most are galvinised so corrosion tends not to spread. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 21, 2009 right been doing the clutch and oh my god what a day lol got the gearbox out and it has this funny black tar like stuff everywhere is this norn ? going to get some more clutch cleaner tomorrow and start putting it back i hope thats if the gearbox is ok thanks mike got some photos will put them up in a min Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 22, 2009 is this gear box ok ?????? plaese i want to put her back together today thanks mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark205 1 Posted March 22, 2009 Could be the seal around the shaft thats no good. I had similar problems on my xs box when the diff went, mine looked like yours and it turned out the seal was crap. I would replace the seal before putting it back on and i would also clean all that crap off as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alteran 1 Posted March 22, 2009 Mate don't overlook the cambelt. If anything, this is the most important. Over time the cambelt material becomes brittle and weak. If it's due because of age then it's imperative you get it changed otherwise you'll be looking at expensive engine repairs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 22, 2009 hi people got gear box done and all back in the only prob is ........................ i found this also the top left gage and bottom right ent working can work out if its oil temp or what sorry people told you i need help lol thanks mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BackStreetRacecars 3 Posted March 22, 2009 the dredded brown multiplug!!! lol..... Check the borwn multiplug under the inlet bit an top of the 'box likely the wires have been corroded and just broken... prob best doing the famous 'brown multiplug' search on the forum... very common fault! usually best just cutting the wires and renewing them from the harness down to the sensors or just joining them up!! that other piece i believe is a crank position type sensor on later models or on earlier ones I think it is used as a diagnostic sensor for timing them or something similar.... someone else will possibly elaborate on this.... depending on what age it is you dont need it.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 22, 2009 the dredded brown multiplug!!! lol..... Check the borwn multiplug under the inlet bit an top of the 'box likely the wires have been corroded and just broken... prob best doing the famous 'brown multiplug' search on the forum... very common fault! usually best just cutting the wires and renewing them from the harness down to the sensors or just joining them up!! that other piece i believe is a crank position type sensor on later models or on earlier ones I think it is used as a diagnostic sensor for timing them or something similar.... someone else will possibly elaborate on this.... depending on what age it is you dont need it.... thanks will have a look tomorrow its F reg if that helps can anyone help me on the left gage and bottom right gage not working please ? thanks mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,622 Posted March 22, 2009 I'd replace the input shaft seal and the crank seal, and the flywheel bolts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 26, 2009 what size is the drive shaft nut ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fenton 1,525 Posted March 26, 2009 32, 35, or 36, depends on what shafts, and which nuts. Best way to know for sure if to measure them! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 27, 2009 UPDATE Got a nice day tomorrow i have 100 and 1 things to do lol i have ........... a pair of handbrake track rod end`s oil pressure switch cv boot kit xenon headlight bulbs new dipstick ( going to take about an hour lol ) new fuel cap ph2 rear lights a nice new strut brace gearbox oil and be for i can do any of that i have to go out and find a 36mm socket mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikespug 1 Posted March 28, 2009 new bulbs fitted (ment to be ice white) but are yellow why is this ?????????????????? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
