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Idiots Guide To Cam Belt Change Please

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Masekwm

I need a puller, I tried to jemmy it off with many objects but now I also need a new crankshaft pulley. :blush:

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omega
I need a puller, I tried to jemmy it off with many objects but now I also need a new crankshaft pulley. :blush:

 

 

good excuse to get a nice shiney one of tom

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Masekwm

If the timing holes align up once you've changed the belt, and span it twice.

 

If you then retighten it as the Haynes says and they still align.

 

Have I done it right?

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Masekwm

This is really bloody annoying me now.

 

Everything went fine, but the belt sounded overtightened and whines so I've retensioned it. It still whined.

 

So I took the belt off, and checked everything (and eventually got it back together) and it still is whining, with the spring tensioner can I just push it back a little and fasten it in place?

 

Thanks

Keith

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welshpug

did you replace the tensioner pulley and water pump?

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Masekwm

Yup, I've replaced both, I've tried it with the aux belt off to check it's not the alternator and with the cam cover off and it still does it.

 

Only bit which remains from the old set up is the spring

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Masekwm

I've found an old post by Alex from way back, which differs from the Haynes guide.

 

The method for tensioning the timing belt up I use is.

Turn the crank by hand with the belt on, and the tensioner loose.

i.e. two 11mm nuts loose and 16mm rear nut loose.

As you turn the crank you will see the tensioner pulley move slightly back and forward.

When its at a point when the tensioner is as far forward as it goes under it's own spring. (i.e. at tightest belt point), then tighten the nuts.

I find the timing marks on the belt useful for fitting the belt.

Align both pulleys up with the dowels. fit the belt on in the right direction. then align both the timing marks up.

If you've got the right belt the timing marks will be correct. I've yet to see a belt with a miss printed timing mark on it.

I ALWAYS use the timing marks on the belt to ensure the number of teeth between the top cam pulley and bottom crank pulley are correct.

 

Doing it that way would allow the tensioner to move, but is it recommended as the Haynes says to tighten it before you turn the engine by hand?

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dcc

have you done the 90 degree twist check?

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Masekwm

Yes, I can turn it 90 degrees, however, as a virginal belt changer, I'm not sure if I'm putting too much pressure on it. I do think the belt must be just a tad too tight.

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dcc

could the belt be rubbing against the block or head at any point?

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Masekwm

Any ideas? Please help :rolleyes:

 

Edit - I'm wondering if it's the Spring! To move the tensioner I have to use the end of my breaker bar to compress the spring, should it be easy to move the tensioner when it's undone?

 

I've been compressing the spring and then holding it back by moving the third bolt by hand...

Edited by Masekwm

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Masekwm

Oh ffs.

 

The rear cam cover was catching, probably from when I lifted the engine to put the engine mount back on

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kyepan

well done, got there in the end.

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PugPal

Hi, I'm currently engaged in a similar project on my 1993 1.9 GTi

The Water Pump collapsed and the engine overheated - then stopped.

Managed to get towed back to my garage and have started the repairs.

Cambelt had slipped but l have now got the Camshaft Pulley dowelled (10mm bolt) in the correct position (approx' 7 o'clock).

Car jacked up, wheel off, wheel arch liner removed exposing the Crankshaft Pulley.

Two other belts driven by the Crankshaft Pulley via a Tensioner - AC Compressor and the Alternator.

However, the space between the engine and the bodywork is so narrow, the Engine Support will have to come off to allow the dismantling of the various plastic covers protecting the Camshaft Belt - Tensioner - Water Pump etc.

Does the Crankshaft Pulley HAVE to be removed to facilitate the necessary repair/s?

If the two other belts being driven by the Crankshaft are removed, then the Camshaft Belt should slip into place over the Pulley (?).

Finally, exactly which is the right Crankshaft Pulley Timing Hole to be used for the correct timing - there appears to be Two Large and three smaller ones - and, which is the position to be dowelled - 11 o'clock/ 12o'clock ???

 

Yes, l've got the Haynes, but it falls short of specifics about my particular year and model although it covers the later XU Engines.

 

Any help and specific details will be most welcome,,,,,,,,,,,Thanks!

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welshpug

the lower timing belt cover is behind the crank pulley, also IIRC on the pre 92 cars it covers the water pump.

 

the pin only fits in one hole on the crank pulley.

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Tom Fenton

The crank pulley does need to come off.

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