Track Rod Ends

[McDude 33]

Like the topic description says - I was going to set about replacing my track rod ends this weekend but looking at the Haynes manual it says you need a splitter to remove the TRE from the hub carrier. I don't have one and can't get access to one until after the weekend, which would put the job back.

 

Can you pry them out a different way? Crowbar? Hammer? Gravity?

 

Thanks dudes.

[Greg205 0]

Hey mate, if you're changing them a big hammer should do the trick!

[Goliath 94]

I have never used a ball joint splitter and managed fine, It is awkward but doable by one person. Main thing is to make sure the whole thing comes out in one go as it will normally come out half way and then go slightly wonky (due to suspension pressure etc) and jam, if it does this then just slot it back in nd try again.

 

Any combination of hammer, crowbar, lever etc should do the trick

[Rom 0]

Ive rarely had to use a splitter for any TRE.

 

Undo the nut, but leave it on the last few threads. Turn so you can get a good swing, then hit the carrier right where the TRE sits. Being careful not to hit the TRE, although the nut will help if you do.

 

This is how ive got almost every TRE ive ever done out.

[hengti 2]

have only ever knocked them out with a hammer (with nut in place if it doesn't fall easily). having the pin turn in the cup whilst undoing the nut has been an occasional problem though, usually sorted by using a trolley jack (or just a knee!) under the TRE

Edited January 23, 2009 by hengti

[swordfish210 20]

I have one of the fork type splitters and it is much easire for removing track rod ends...............a 2lb hammer will suffice though

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

I have a scissor and a fork splitter, but unless it is an especially stubborn joint I usually just crack the casting around the taper with a hammer, a couple of good cracks usually does the trick.

 

If you are going to buy one, get the scissor type is my advice, the fork type work well, but often damage the joint boot; OK if you are fitting new, but not so good when you are removing the hub for another reason.

[welshpug 1,626]

as tom mentioned, the scissor type works best on tight joints, they don't damage the boots like a fork does.

 

I tent to just give the joint a nice square thump and out they drop

Edited January 23, 2009 by welshpug

[Greg205 0]

Hey mate, if you're changing them a big hammer should do the trick!

 

 

need I say more??

[McDude 33]

Thanks guys - I'll try giving it what for with the old Birmingham screwdriver then.

 

I can borrow a splitter, but won't see the friend until next week and I'd like to get it sorted this weekend.

[joe1joe 3]

hit the hub where the tre goes thru

using a ball joint spliter will reck the ruber boot!!

[Phil H 16]

I take the nut off fully, then thread it back on until the nylok makes contact, then smack with hammer. Then you know you can just undo the nut by hand and not have to jack it back up to wedge it in to take the nut off.

[Cameron 16]

I never bother hitting the hub, might try it though. I usually take the nut off, then put it back on so that the top is flush and then hit it, so you're hitting the shaft down directly. Usually comes out in one thump and the nut makes sure you don't damage the threads.

Edited January 24, 2009 by Cameron

[joe1joe 3]

not realy a problem with doin it but the u still risk damaging the thread/ jst mullering it!!

[meggy6620 0]

There sould be a nice bit of flat on the hub where the trackrod gose through, just take the nut off fully and one big swing with a good hard hammer sould do it, what happend is the metal flexes slightly and releases the tappered trakrod. (wheel need to be in lock to get a good swing)