Rear Arb Help, And Cross Member Seal Help.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

hello,

 

just a quick question, it says on the haynes manual that the side with the shouldered side which i believe is the left side, is that as your looking form the rear of the car?

 

 

the reason i ask is the beam i have took off has the shouldered end on the right side as you look at the car from the rear?

 

Am i right in thinking the the smaller splined end with the shouldered end goes on left had side as you look form the back of car? also is there anything i need to watch out for/tips tricks etc as this is the last thing i need to do on my beam.

 

 

 

 

 

 

one last thing, i found the cross member seal 0.05 mm gap between arm and cup on shaft hard to do, is there any tips on how do do it easier, as look at mine at the mo on the car, the seal looks very close up and too tight. was thinking i could make a round disk that is at the thickness off 0.05mm and doing it that way as then it would be even.

 

thanks

 

dan

[welshpug 1,626]

left side is always the left side, doesn't matter if you're looking at the front or the rear of the vehicle

 

One end of the ARB sits fully into the splines of the Lever/End plate, that is the one shown in the manual as the one having the shoulder, its the right ride that doesn't.

 

if the seal and cup are seated squarely in their respective positions you should have no trouble setting the 0.05mm clearance to the seal, just place a feeler gauge between them, push the trailing arm in, set the stud and lock off with the 13mm nut.

 

not sure what you mean by a round disc.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

left side is always the left side, doesn't matter if you're looking at the front or the rear of the vehicle

 

One end of the ARB sits fully into the splines of the Lever/End plate, that is the one shown in the manual as the one having the shoulder, its the right ride that doesn't.

 

if the seal and cup are seated squarely in their respective positions you should have no trouble setting the 0.05mm clearance to the seal, just place a feeler gauge between them, push the trailing arm in, set the stud and lock off with the 13mm nut.

 

not sure what you mean by a round disc.

 

sorry if im being stupid but if you look at the front of the car the left/right are the opp way round if your looking from the rear. so the arb end that has the shoulder thats the left side, but in the guide, why do you have to insert a bolt into the arm its self? That to push the arb end plate onto the splines? gather the bolt is then taken out?

[welshpug 1,626]

yes, you use the bolt to hold that lever on the end of the ARB as you draw the other lever on the right hand side of the ARB.

 

 

 

Left is left whichever way you look at the car, it may be on YOUR right, but not the car's right, if you get what I mean!

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

yes, you use the bolt to hold that lever on the end of the ARB as you draw the other lever on the right hand side of the ARB.

 

 

 

Left is left whichever way you look at the car, it may be on YOUR right, but not the car's right, if you get what I mean!

 

 

ah so that smalled shouldered end goes to the opp side to the drivers right handed side then

[welshpug 1,626]

yes, that end should be left fixed

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

yes, that end should be left fixed

 

hello, just a quick question, are both the arb end plates mean't to have a 1mm gap between between the pate and arm? as it reads in the haynes, it saying only the right handed side only has a 1mm gap. is that right?

[welshpug 1,626]

1mm in total, i.e 0.5mm for both sides.

 

when you place a 1mm spacer between the right hand end plate and the arm, and draw it on with the M8 thread, the other side will be pulled flush, as soon as you take your 1mm spacer out, the seals will push the bar so it sits centrally.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

1mm in total, i.e 0.5mm for both sides.

 

when you place a 1mm spacer between the right hand end plate and the arm, and draw it on with the M8 thread, the other side will be pulled flush, as soon as you take your 1mm spacer out, the seals will push the bar so it sits centrally.

 

cheers mate, always on the ball, another thing, the notch on the left hand side of the arb, does it mater where that notch is in splines of the plate. haynes mentions one of the plate has 3 120 degress which suggests that thats the right hand side, the other one just one. so is there any correct way the splines are entered in the splines of the arb plate?

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

1mm in total, i.e 0.5mm for both sides.

 

when you place a 1mm spacer between the right hand end plate and the arm, and draw it on with the M8 thread, the other side will be pulled flush, as soon as you take your 1mm spacer out, the seals will push the bar so it sits centrally.

 

 

been looking at the arb, and the 8mm is only on the shouldered side (left side) which is fixed, the right side on both my 309 arbs seem to have a 6mm thread? is that normal? Welshpug above says to draw the right hand end plate with the 8mm thread?

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

been looking at the arb, and the 8mm is only on the shouldered side (left side) which is fixed, the right side on both my 309 arbs seem to have a 6mm thread? is that normal? Welshpug above says to draw the right hand end plate with the 8mm thread?

All the rear ARB's I've had / have are M8 on both ends so i wouldn't say one end having M6 thread is normal.

 

Graham.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

All the rear ARB's I've had / have are M8 on both ends so i wouldn't say one end having M6 thread is normal.

 

Graham.

 

 

thanks mate, both the arbs i had had damaged threads, so managed to put it on the beam, they are m8 juts the threads are distored, so the other bar im going to rethread.

 

finally the beam is finished, the arb plates are on, and the torsion bars on, hopefully they are done tight as i did forget to tighten the torq screws before i did the stud side, so i had to undo my studs and reset the seals. booooo. i mot the car and get it on the road, then go over the beam again and tighen everything up again if needs be.

 

 

thanks all for your input, oh i had a thought, i have grease on my cross member seal lip externally, should i rub that off or leave it on? i was thinking maybe it would be a good think to keep greased as it would keep the water away, only downfall it would keep hold of the dirt.

 

regards

 

dan

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

I'd wipe the excess grease off, not all grease is good on rubber seals, some dry it out causing it to perish sooner.

 

Graham.

[yorkshirekowboy 19 1 Cars]

I'd wipe the excess grease off, not all grease is good on rubber seals, some dry it out causing it to perish sooner.

 

Graham.

 

 

well i have wiped most excess grease off, trouble is i applied grease when i inserted the cross member seal to the external holder and also to the trailing arms them selves. When i put the beam together the excess grease came out from the cross member seal, making the inner lip where it meets the cup on arm greasey. maybe i should apply some degreaser to the seals?

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

maybe i should apply some degreaser to the seals?

No, don't do that.

 

If you've wiped off all the excess grease visable that'll so imo.

 

Spraying degreaser around that area makes it likely it wil find its way into the beam & weaken the grease. Plus the degreaser could also attack the seals.

 

Graham.