Gti6 Timing Belt

[Dan Ingram 1]

I'm just about to swap the belt on my GTi6 engine but don't have a haynes manual or anything like that. I'm guessing you just fit it like most other belts. Start at the crank then on the cam pulleys pulling it tight so that all the slack is on the tensioner side. If that's right how do I set the tensioners once I've got it on?

[pj838 0]

There's two different types of belt/tensioners (136 tooth & 137?) there are guides on the gti6 forum with pics as well.

[pug_ham 240 3 Cars]

Have a look at page 32 & 33 for a guide to changing the timing belt in the 306 GTi-6 service guide. (right click save target as).

 

Graham.

[welshpug 1,622]

you need to pin it all up, making sure that the bottom pulley lines up

 

(its common for the outer section to separate and turn placing the timing hole out of alignment)

 

then on the cam pulleys slacken the 3 bolts on early engines/central bolt on later engines, and turn them fully forwards.

 

fit belt anti clockwise, tension, then counterhold the pulleys and re-tighten bolt/s.

 

turn engine over by hand and re-check that all 3 pins slide in, you may well need to adjust the pulleys slightly to achieve this.

 

and thats it

 

make sure you don't turn the cams independently if you have to move them, the valves are quite large and can strike each other.

 

setting the tension with the manual tensioner is a straightforward one, quarter of a turn on the longest run without excessive pressure, with the auto tensioner you line the pointer up.

 

I would fit the 136 Toothed belt and appropriate tensioners personally, far more durable than the spring plastic items, if you have the 137 arrangement you'll need to fit a boss to the engine that you can get from peugeot cheap enough.

Edited January 6, 2009 by welshpug

[Dan Ingram 1]

Excellent thanks Pugtorque. I couldn't find a guide for the non auto tensioner one.

[Dan Ingram 1]

Thanks welshpug. Why do you need to slacken off the cam pulley bolts?

[welshpug 1,622]

to ensure that whatever you set the belt tension to, the cam timing is still correct.

[Dan Ingram 1]

Ok, by fully forwards you mean clockwise?

[welshpug 1,622]

yes, you have the same arrangement on many PSA engines, 1.8 XU, both XU10J4r and RS, 4 on the V6 and all EW+DW engines, and even many diseasels

Edited January 6, 2009 by welshpug

[Dan Ingram 1]

Ok thanks. Its a little bit more complicated than the 8v one. Is the crankshaft pully bolt just normal r/h thread? I think I'm just being a bit weak bit it wont budge.

[welshpug 1,622]

yes, one big bolt.

[Anthony 1,000]

(its common for the outer section to separate and turn placing the timing hole out of alignment)

That point really does need emphasising - turn the engine over until the two cam pulley holes line up, and check the lower pulley hole to see whether that lines up - if it does not, then DO NOT turn the crank with the cambelt off to line it up, otherwise you will likely have a whole lot of bent valves when you try and start it. Things like the Haynes manual do not mention this and I'm sure many people will have fallen foul.

 

Personally, I completely ignore the timing hole on the GTi-6 crank pulley, and put an 8v pulley on for timing the engine up (as the 8v one being a one piece cast item will be lined up correctly) and then refit the GTi-6 pulley once I'm happy that the belt is fitted and tensioned correctly.

[Dan Ingram 1]

All 3 holes line up perfectly but I'll check the crank is in the right place once I get the pulley off.

 

Thanks for your help chaps. I'd be lost without this place