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Tandoh

205 Rallye Now Has No Power

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Tandoh

Right ok so when me and my girlfrined went to pick up my new 205, i noticed a small oil leak under her Rallye. So after returning from collectin my car we checked the oil and water, to find that the water was oil:P The head gasket had gone :o

 

So after a week of trying to find time to sort it out, the head had been skinmmed and all the other work had been done, the Rallye was all back together ;)

 

However, on the fist drive, there was no power and the Rallye could barely move. There was a continuous stalling problem and the Rallye then developed a problem where it wouldnt go above 40mph even with your foot flat on the floor.

So we took it to the local garage which is owned by a family friend, and tehy cleaned the jets on teh carb and brought teh idle up, and he seemed a bit better. Thhe Stalling problem then started again and there is still a lack of power.

 

We have put a new battery in and the Rallye now doesnt stall as much, pretty much when he is cold and only once. But there is still no power. We Took him along the A303 and as we reached 90 the stop light came on and so did the temp light.

 

1st and second gear are ok, even though there is no power just after you change, but in 4th and 5th there is no power and he can barely accelerate from 70-80. This is so different from the car he used to be as the accelerate used to be from 50-60 in 5th was almost instant.

We have some new spark plugs to put in but this all we can now think of it being.

Im not sure if the head just needs to be run in, but i wouldnt have tought it would be this bad :s

 

Anyone have any ideas of what the problem is please can you let us know

Thanks

Luke

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welshpug

I would start by checking that the timing is correct, i.e line up the cam and crank and lock them in place with the 2 pins, might be a tooth out.

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Tandoh
I would start by checking that the timing is correct, i.e line up the cam and crank and lock them in place with the 2 pins, might be a tooth out.

 

Thanks for the super quick reply

 

Forgot to say the timing before was way out and the garage corrected that as that was my first thought

 

Thanks

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welshpug

did they do the distributor timing or engine timing?

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Tandoh

Hmm im not sure i will have to go ask them as all they said to me is the timing was way out so they corrected it :s

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drmo

Cam timing out?

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Gentrix

from my experience with the little tu engines - check if your watersystem is correctly bleeded - as these engines can trap big airbubbles.

 

And the next thing - make sure it doesnt suck unmeasured air anywhere. The seal between intake manifold and carburator is one candidate.

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Tandoh
from my experience with the little tu engines - check if your watersystem is correctly bleeded - as these engines can trap big airbubbles.

 

And the next thing - make sure it doesnt suck unmeasured air anywhere. The seal between intake manifold and carburator is one candidate.

 

Cheers im on my way over to my girlfriends now so i will have a fiddle around with it =]

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DrSarty

Just in case you didn't know Luke, a good way to check for any unmetered air leaks is with a can of Easy Start. Choose carefully where you spray to know what gets a reaction, and work around the likely areas with little squirts to see if it breathes any in and the revs rise; then you've found your (possible) leak.

 

Good luck.

Edited by DrSarty

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pip470

Nice idea rich I like that, as for your car mate, when something is running great and then something is changed because its way out, and then it doesnt run great thats the first place I would be looking.

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RossD

I think its probably a cam timing \ ignition timing thing - You say the timing was way out to start with - I think you need to go back and check everything as has been suggested.

Check the timing holes all line up

Check the ignition timing (Probably around 8 degrees BTDC at idle)

Check for air leaks as also suggested!

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SeanO'Connor

Do you need to adjust the valve clearence on this engine if you have skimmed the head?

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Mikey S
Do you need to adjust the valve clearence on this engine if you have skimmed the head?

 

 

you should as a matter of course, as the valvetrain is removed when the headbolts are removed.

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Tandoh

After getting the head back from being skimmed we grinded in the valves, so is that a likely problem then?

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DamirGTI

Each and every time you grind/lap the valves the previous clearance will be lost , the more you grind/lap them the more you de-creasing the clearance in between , in this case , rocker arm and valve steam .. so valve clearance adjusting is a must do after valve grinding/lapping job .. :P

 

Too much clearance will result in poor performance (engine will usually be rather noisy) , and too little will be dangerous cos the valves might burn out .. anyway effect on the performance is in deed noticeable :blush:

 

But me thinks that theres some kind of combination of the incorrectly adjusted ignition timing (as said , perhaps cam/crank timing as well ..) and fueling :huh: check the cam timing first and then try with adjusting the valve clearances (it's easy job on a TU engine , no need for changing shims etc. ..) and advance the dizzy a little bit (move the dizzy by 2-3mm on the advance side for start ..) and check how it goes afterwards ..

 

Damir ;)

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Tandoh

Right finally got round to doing something with the Rallye:P

i started by changing the spark plugs. I got onto the 3rd and when i pulled out the lead, the connector was still attached to the top of the plug! A while ago i suspected a misfire from when it failed to ilde just after it started andstalled with a loud pop.

So ive got a new set of Ignition leads coming today. So hopefully it will be atleast better at starting if the power hasnt returned.

I will let you know if hes better!!

 

Thanks everyone

Luke

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Tandoh

Ah forgot to say, When the valves were ground in, the valve clearances were all correct. We will check this again if the leads dont solve the problem.

 

Thanks again

Luke

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