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Guest Davva

No Spark 1.6 Gti - Tried Seeminly Everything..

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Guest Davva

Hi there,

 

I'm trying to get my 1.6 GTI to start, and its not playing ball!

 

We have checked all the wiring on the ECU and the Tachymetric relay, all seems to be functioning correctly. Also have checked all the wiring on the ignition module, thats ok too. There is 12v on the coil, and it still wont spark. Have also checked for continuity on hall sensor wiring.

 

Parts replaced: ECU, Ignition Module, Tachymetric Relay, Distributor inc Hall effect sensor, King Lead

 

The fuel pump is running and the injectors are pulsing as it is getting fuel in to the cylinders.

 

All i need is to get it to spark and I'm sure it will run! Have a spark plug tester plugged in between the no.1 ignition lead and the plug, and its not even so much as flickered on.

 

Am starting to think it may be something to do with the negative side of the coil?

 

Anyone have any ideas?... :)

 

Cheers in advance,

 

Dave

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Tom Fenton

I'd try another coil, they can just fail without warning.

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Guest Davva

Literally just tried another coil.. still no joy :)

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Tom Fenton

Connect your tester into the output of the coil, then you can isolate if the coil is not producing a spark, or if the dizzy is not distributing it!

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grandos

Check all your earth connections around the coil and ignition amp, I believe there are small braided wires that look easy to break going to the coil mounting.

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Guest Davva

coil is not producing a spark.. have checked all earth connections and everything checks out ok!

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Guest Davva
Check all your earth connections around the coil and ignition amp, I believe there are small braided wires that look easy to break going to the coil mounting.

 

Found thin film resistor from centre of rotor arm (inside black epoxy strip top of rotor arm)to tip burnt out, opencircuit. Felt great that we found the problem, replaced rotor arm & you guessed it, still no spark. Cannot detect any voltage on HT side of coil. 12Volts is on coil, wires from Ignition amp & dizzi sensor 'buzz' out OK, amp replaced too, as well as ECU. Rumour has it that Pug' fitted immobilisers on some, but cant see anything fitted, any ideas most welcome :-(

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Mikey S

is the rev counter moving when its being cranked over. if its not it points to an igntion module problem.

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Guest Davva
is the rev counter moving when its being cranked over. if its not it points to an igntion module problem.

 

Good question & one that has been in the back of my mind, as I have not seen the Rev' counter so much as jump all the time we have been diagnosing. We did try 2 modules & only have an untried 1.9 module left (the car we have is a 1.6), if that is OK to try, we can do that nxt. Btw, still puzzling why the rotor arm resistor burnt out!!??? Many thanks thus far

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Mikey S
Good question & one that has been in the back of my mind, as I have not seen the Rev' counter so much as jump all the time we have been diagnosing. We did try 2 modules & only have an untried 1.9 module left (the car we have is a 1.6), if that is OK to try, we can do that nxt. Btw, still puzzling why the rotor arm resistor burnt out!!??? Many thanks thus far

 

yes, you can use the 1.9 module on a 1.6, in fact you can use either the 5 or 7 pins modules on them without any problems.

 

i think the resister is there to beef the spark up a little but im no so sure. a good test for the rotor arm insulation is holding the king lead close to the rotor arm centre and cranking it over. if the spark jumps to the arm, the arm itself is shot.

 

have you checked the wiring between the distributor and the module for continuity?

Edited by pugger

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Gaz-2006

The distributor and the module have been checked for continuity and checked out ok.

 

It is now at the stage that the coil is giving out battery voltage with ignition on (12.5v) and 9v during cranking... this is checked from the coil output to the king lead.

 

Obviously thats not right as it should be thousands of volts on the high tension side.

 

Anyone had this before? I'm now thinking that it may be the negative side of the coil causing the problem as the voltage is in the correct places on the wiring plug for the coil.

 

Another coil has also been tried and the same symptoms occur!

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grandos

Are all the connections on the coil the right way round? i.e the small spade terminal connections. (postive/negative) As I can remember having starting problems if thats the case.

 

Compare to a working vehicle is the easiest way to check. (Same model year with same ignition)

Edited by grandos

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Redtop

Was the fault ever found on this vehicle? I have a similar car with the same type of fault [everything checked with known good components that start another car] and have it traced back to a previous alarm system being the fault. Did this vehicle have an aftermarket alarm?

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