Setting Up After 2.0 8v Conversion

[jengis 0]

Hi,

 

I swapped my 1.6 for an XU10J2 engine at the weekend. Started first time, despite the engine having been sat in the garage for nearly a year. I am running it on the 1.6 management and inlet manifold.

 

However, theres a few things:

 

I am yet to sort out the engine breathers properly. currently I have joined the crankcase to the 306 XSi cam cover with a large large-ish diameter hose (as it was in the 306 donor). Theres two outlets on the cam cover that need to be, presumably plumbed into the intake before and after the throttle. At the moment I am just venting these to atmosphere. When warm there is a helluva lot of fumes and the main crankcase breather is getting gunked up with mayo. Am I likely to stop the gunking by getting the top breathers plumbed into the intake? If so, any ideas on what to use as a PCV valve? does the 205 have a PCV valve in the standard breather system?

 

With the idle screw turned in fully it still idles at 1400 rpm when warm. This is with the breather hose unions blanked off, so I'm worried that when I plumb the breathers into the inlet it will actually increase the idle further!

 

Any ideas?

[Anthony 1,000]

Assuming you've checked that the throttle is definately closing fully, there's no air leaks and that the SAD (if connected) is definately closed, the you should be able to just adjust the throttle stop screw to bring the idle speed back down - it'll probably be a bit gunked up, but it's definately there. You'll need to reset the throttle switch position afterwards.

 

Also worth checking that you've not wound the dizzy on too far - more ignition advance increases idle speed.

 

Mayo in the breathers is fairly common at this time of year, especially if you've got them open to atmosphere where cold damp air can get in.

[jengis 0]

As soon as it was running I played with the the ignition. Set it same as I have with standard engines (i.e. finding fastest idle and knocking back by 200 rpm, or by finding point where it starts to pink then backing off by couple of mm's). However, It does seem very far on the "advanced" end of its adjustment.

 

I haven't checked the throttle stop position, but as the switch and stop were nicely set before, I didn't see any reason to change at this early stage. Perhaps it may have a bit of a gap that isn't needed with the larger inlet vacuum created by bigger cc.??

 

One other thing I noticed, I have would out the Idle CO adjuster nut to lean it off. Bizare, I know, but it seemed like it was overfueling until I advanced the ignition and leaned the mixture. Increasing idle mixture only increased idle too, so I was happy that leaning it out was the right thing. I know I need to get it measured properly but for the time being I just want it to be near enough right.

 

Not toooo worried about the breathers as I was hoping to use the XU5 cam cover on the XU10 head, and run the same closed system as before.

 

Anthony, how did you fit the cam cover to your XU10 head? Looking at the studs and nuts that hold the cam bearings down, they are too long on the XU10. Seems like I might have to rebuilt the head with some mix and match of GTi bits. In this area I am out of my deapth! Any advice on this?

 

Cheers!

[carbers205 1]

Mate have you got any pics to hand?

I run an XU10J2C in my 306 so know exactly where everything goes, only I cant remember exactly which bits of which car you are using now! (inlet, tb, cam cover etc)

As far as the studs go for the cam cover, the fitting is totally different between XU10 and XU5/9. As you will have already seen the XU10 has 10 studs and nuts whereas the others only have 3 as far as I recall

[Anthony 1,000]

Anthony, how did you fit the cam cover to your XU10 head? Looking at the studs and nuts that hold the cam bearings down, they are too long on the XU10. Seems like I might have to rebuilt the head with some mix and match of GTi bits. In this area I am out of my deapth! Any advice on this?

Use the cam bearing cap nuts from a XU5/XU9 head rather than the XU10 ones, and the XU5/XU9 camcover will bolt straight on

[jengis 0]

Mate have you got any pics to hand?

I run an XU10J2C in my 306 so know exactly where everything goes, only I cant remember exactly which bits of which car you are using now! (inlet, tb, cam cover etc)

As far as the studs go for the cam cover, the fitting is totally different between XU10 and XU5/9. As you will have already seen the XU10 has 10 studs and nuts whereas the others only have 3 as far as I recall

 

Pics of are still on the work camera, have not had chance to upload as yet. Hopefully get some on here soon.

I'm using the 205 inlet, throttle body, AFM, SAD plumbed in ok. But have got the ugly plastic XU10 cam cover. I can see that the XU 10 head has the three drillings just waiting to be used to bolt the 205 cover to....

 

Use the cam bearing cap nuts from a XU5/XU9 head rather than the XU10 ones, and the XU5/XU9 camcover will bolt straight on

 

Thats what I hoped. Cheers! So the longer studs can be swapped for the shorter ones off the 205?

 

Can't do much to it until next week sometime, but I'm happier with what I've got to do now. Ta.

 

One last question, I promise!... What could be the likely cause of a disconcerting squeek/whine from the cambelt area? Did I over-tesion the cambelt perhaps? I was concerned about the engine mount fouling the belt so put a wee bit more tension on than I would have otherwise, but by no means excessive, or so I thought?

[carbers205 1]

Yeah the standard 205 ones dont have any thread out the top like the 306 ones do, then the 205 cover will bolt to the 3 holes in the bearing caps.

The whine may be down to either cam or alt belt tension, the cambelt tensioner has a square hole, that should be almost directly below the bolt that attaches the tensioner, you do need to make sure that there is sufficient tension in the front run of the belt though.

It is also possible that the alt pulley is squeeking, or worst case, the water pump