2pack Paint Mixing Ratio

[DamirGTI 345]

Hello !

 

Boys , i need some help with the mixing ratio (im no good with mathematics ) :

 

I've bought 2pack etch primer , it says on the can that the mixing ratio is 4:1 - so it's 4 parts of paint ( can of paint is 0.75L ) + 1 parts of activator/acid ( bottle of activator/acid is 0.19L ) .

Now , i wish to mix up small amount - 100ml of paint , so how much of paint/acid i need to add in the mix to make 100ml ?

 

Damir

Edited November 15, 2008 by DamirGTI

[Paintguy 0]

80ml primer : 20ml actvator

 

Always keep them in the ratio of 4:1 (or near enough) and you'll be fine.

 

If you have them, it's a good idea to use a straight sided tin or cup, and a steel ruler. Put the ruler in the bottom of the cup, and add (for example) 4cm of primer. Divide that number by the mixing ratio and add that much activator on top (4÷4 = 1, so 1cm of activator needed)

[DamirGTI 345]

Nice one

 

Thanks Andy !

Damir

[Paintguy 0]

Just to add, whatever you mix it in, make sure you do so thoroughly.

 

Don't just swirl it around like you would do a cup of coffee, lol, but mix for a full minute, concentrating on scraping the thick primer from the sides and bottom of your mixing vessel

[DamirGTI 345]

Will do

 

How do you actually making this 4:1 mixing calculations (if i wish to mix up little bit more afterwards for painting bigger area .. ) this puzzles me a bit must say

 

One more thing , is it possible to weld over these zinc/chrome oxide primer layers ? (i've heard that some of them are weldable , like weld trough primers , at least it says so in the data sheet ..) if not , what should i use in order to protect the steel surface in between (seams) when making lap welds so that this layer doesn't burn out during the welding process ?

 

Damir

[jimistdt 1]

How do you actually making this 4:1 mixing calculations

 

Its just a multiplication factor, the larger amount is 4x greater than the smaller amount.

 

The amounts are not important so long as the ratios are correct.

 

 

[DamirGTI 345]

Shame on me i always had some sort of brain damage for these math stuff

 

Damir

[Ricardo 0]

Do you not add thinners too? Or is that 2pk acrylic top coat only?

 

I mix 2pk in flat sided jar and just measure in mm up the side. (2:1 + 10% thinners = three marks on the jar from bottom

20mm : 10mm : 3mm)

[Paintguy 0]

Do you not add thinners too? Or is that 2pk acrylic top coat only?

Most etch primer don't need a thinner/reducer.

 

I mix 2pk in flat sided jar and just measure in mm up the side. (2:1 + 10% thinners = three marks on the jar from bottom

20mm : 10mm : 3mm)

Similar to the method I mentioned in post #2. A great idea if you don't want to shell out for proper graduated mixing cups

[Ricardo 0]

Would you use etch primer on alloys, rather than std cellulose primer?

[Tom Fenton 1,585]

Yes, use etch primer on aluminium. I also have used it when painting fibreglass.

[Paintguy 0]

Would you use etch primer on alloys, rather than std cellulose primer?

Yes, definitely.

 

Etch rarely has much build (thickness) to it though, so the usual procedure is a coat or two of etch over the bare aluminium, then a hi-build primer over the top if required (celly primer will suffice).

[Ricardo 0]

Come to think of it we used to use a thin yellow etch primer on the Seawolf missile housings on frigates, they were aluminium. Wish I could get hold of some of that! If it can keep the sea out ....

[Ricardo 0]

Sorry to but in like this but is the etch/primer clear? Cos it would need to be if just laquering ali wheels.

Thanks

Richard

[Paintguy 0]

I've never seen a clear etch primer, but I suppose someone might make one.

 

You're always going to have trouble with alloys if you just want to lacquer (clearcoat) them. Even the manufacturers can't get it right, and you very often see OEM wheels with flaking lacquer. We have one guy at work employed solely to repair alloys, and I'd say 50% of his jobs involve repairing flaking ones. When you think we rarely have any cars over 4 years old, it's not a good sign!

 

There are some clears about that are meant to be designed for polished metal or bare aluminium, but I haven't tried them myself, and if they really did live up to their claims then I'm sure we'd see more wheel manufacturers using them