nick9one1 2 Posted October 28, 2008 I have narrowed down my non starting 1.9 rebuild down to non firing injectors. The spark plugs do spark in the correct order so I think that narrows down the number of things it could be. One thing I have noticed is there doesn't seem to be voltage from either of the wires on any the injector plugs. I think this could be down to a short.. a faulty connection somewhere or possibly a relay or fuse? any ideas?? thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,628 Posted October 28, 2008 what is the order they fire in at the moment? should be 1342. 1 being flywheel end... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted October 28, 2008 Injector wiring and firing is quite simple, as on most 4 cyl engines they all batch fire, ie all at once. This is because they should have a 12volt, ignition switched live feed, which is on (guess what) constantly when the ignition is on. This should be your first point of call; do you have a 5amp fused 12v ignition switched feed to all of the injectors? You said you have nothing. This is worrying. The ECU just grips the earths for the injectors, grounding the other wire going to the injectors when the injector should fire. Providing you know your ECU is fine and your wiring - which you can at least continuity test - is sound, there's no reason with the correct live feed in place that your injectors won't fire. It's unlikely all of your injectors are naffed, so really it's just a simple wiring check IMHO. Note that most Bosch injectors have a '+' positive mark where the JPT wiring connector plugs in for the live feed. Good luck and keep us posted. Should be easy to fault find this one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted October 29, 2008 sounds like a wire might have become disconnected near the ignition then, there has been some bodgery around there from an old alarm that's come out. Ill have a quick look in the morning before work and let you know! thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted October 29, 2008 (edited) sounds like a wire might have become disconnected near the ignition then, there has been some bodgery around there from an old alarm that's come out. Ill have a quick look in the morning before work and let you know! thanks! The switch source will be the ignition barrel, but your break/mis-continuity could be anywhere from there, through your injector relay (which Mi16s have so I guess 8v have them) to the last point where your injector wires are bundled together. I say the latter because as they're all not firing, the break won't be after the point you have individual wire pairs going into the injectors or indeed caused by a dodgy injector plug connection. Checky your injector relay first. The Haynes book of lies should tell you whether it has one and where it is. On Mi's they're part of the loom, often in a little black lunchbox affair. Usually one inch cube sized affairs. Edited October 29, 2008 by DrSarty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted October 29, 2008 well ive taken a quick picture of the haynes as i cant find a relay in there, The wires just seem to bunch up and go to the ecu 89 is SAD 91 is Tachametric relay 93 is throttle switch 1 is air flow sensor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,000 Posted October 29, 2008 Tachymetric relay would be my suspicion, as that supplies power for the injectors as well as the fuel pump Check that you've got constant +12v at one of the thick wires on the tachyrelay plug (brown IIRC), +12v switched ignition at one of the thinner wires (yellow IIRC) and an earth (green IIRC). The constant feed comes from the black power distribution box under the bonnet, and the switched feed comes from the brown multiplugs under the dash. Assuming that's correct all correct, you should get +12v at the other two thick wires (both white IIRC) when cranking or engine running - if you don't, the relay is probably shot. You can test it by using a couple of bits of wire to short the three thick wires together, effectively giving constant power to the fuel pump and injectors. If it then starts and runs, you know the relay is definately at fault. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrSarty 90 1 Cars Posted October 29, 2008 A one-for-one tachy relay swap is a simple method too. I didn't know the tachy relay dealt with the injectors too. Anthony's clever is he, but then I've only fiddled with valvers, and there is no tachy relay as it's built into the ECU. I think this'll fix it then, as unless the brown muti-plug(s) under the dash (LHS of steering column) have come undone or dodgy, or you'v slashed through the loom somewhere the tachy relay swap seems the logical answer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted October 29, 2008 Daft question,but you did have coil wired up when checking injectors were firing??????? Only ask cause I was checking mine the other day and had removed the coil to remove the fuel rail,injectors were not firing with coil off Put the plug back on the coil and the injectors all fired ok Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted October 30, 2008 thanks for all your help, It turned out the injectors positive feed had broken just after they all join up. Although now a more serious problem has happened. Once i turned the key it started on the button and sounded great, then there was a knocking noise so I turned it off. I pulled the dipstick out to check the oil and it was milky white! At this point I was wondering if somehow I has missed putting one of the one of the liner seals on althouth I dont think i did. I decided to start taking the head off and I noticed that the cam pully bolt had sheared off and so had the little notch that lined it up to the camshaft. So i guess the knocking was the pistons hitting the valves. Im not having much luck with these engines! Any idea of the possible causes? I guess the cam must have siezed as the turning force of the belt comes from the bottom pully. could water in the oil have caused the cam to sieze? shearing the bolt? If this is the case what other possible causes of oil in the water are there, missing liner seal, headgasket, any thing inside the engine that might be missing? like abolt not in a hole or something? I do have a replacement head so Im going to stick that on providing all the damage is only to the head. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted October 31, 2008 any ideas? I want to put the replacement head on tomorrow but not without knowing why it went wrong! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CosKev 16 Posted November 1, 2008 Oh dear Can't think why cam pulley bolt and key would shear,would have thought cam belt would have jumped/snapped/been thrown off if cam was seized before it would shear anything like that. Did you turn the engine over a few times by hand with a socket on the bottom pulley bolt before starting engine????? How did it feel???? You have got serious problems whatever though I'm afraid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roman 0 Posted November 1, 2008 Oh dear Can't think why cam pulley bolt and key would shear,would have thought cam belt would have jumped/snapped/been thrown off if cam was seized before it would shear anything like that. Did you turn the engine over a few times by hand with a socket on the bottom pulley bolt before starting engine????? How did it feel???? You have got serious problems whatever though I'm afraid if you're lucky..... couple bent valve... if you not..... disaster Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick9one1 2 Posted November 2, 2008 yes i did turn it over by hand, seemed fairly easy and double checked the timing holes. and it did run for 30secs or so before this happened?! are there any retainers that stop the cam sliding from side to side in the 205? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
