Gti-6: Extending Lower Mount With Lowered Engine

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Quick question, how have you guys using shorter top mounts and lowered gearbox gone about lining their lower mount up? Mine seems like it will need angling down about 15mm to match the bolt holes up, as well as the 12mm in extra length to clear the manifold from the bulkhead.

 

I can't see anyone having this problem on here though

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Anyone have any input? Would be much appreciated

[t16ryan 1]

with the rs2000 mount i used and 2 washers i only extended it 4mm and was enough to clear bulk head but every car will be slightly different some others have extended 8-10mm

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Sorry, i probably haven't explained it clearly enough...

 

What i mean is because the engine and box have been lowered 15mm or so with the rs2000 mount (ive fitted 10mm of washers too), the center hole of the lower bush is now 15mm lower too.

 

So clearly even if i extended the lower fork by 8-10mm, the bolt still won't line up

[gti-si 0]

I just bent the mount down as well and pinned it under pressure

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

I thought that might've been the case si. Doubt i'll be able to bend mine down enough though tbh, as i've replaced the fork bush with a bbm one now and there's very little leeway in it.

 

Plus bolting them up under that much strain will cause problems i'd have thought anyway!

[Peetypug 5]

what i'm gona do is

 

cut the 2 forks off the lower mount

then weld one side with a large bit of metal, say 80mm by 80mm

then put it back on and move the engine whilst on the rs2000 mount and lowered box mount

mark the point where it sits correctly, mark it then drill and do the same the other side

once done that, i'll trim them both down

 

i'm also re-angling the brake servo to give me a bit more room

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

I made this using some 10mm threaded rod, rod connector and a length of metal bent into shape for the mount. I also had to angle mine down so I just welded the fork further down the rod connector.

 

This was just a trail fit but I then spaced the bolts with some washers and gave it a lick of paint.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/ewP205/Image0011.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v331/ewP205/Image2.jpg

 

Edit: Pictures are upside down but you get the idea

Edited July 26, 2008 by Edp

[Alastairh 47]

Hello mate, how you doing?

 

Have you considered just running it on standard mounts and re angle the manifold. MC clearance can be sorted with other methods.

 

Just seems like a bit of night mare and make the drive train become dangerous

 

Al

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Cheers for that guys, liking both of your ideas

 

I'll probably measure the original dimensions, chop the fork halfway down and weld in two 50mm x 50mm plates and then work out where the new holes need to be.

 

Al- I have briefly considered how the drivetrain will be affected, but this seemed like the easier option at the time! I haven't heard any complaints of exploding diffs and dead CV joints lately though, unless people are just keep quiet about it.

 

Did you re-angle the manifold on your conversion mate? I suppose the other option is to run standard mounts, extend the lower fork, grind the cam cover and re-angle the mc

[maxi 36 1 Cars]

I have tried both methods and the best way is to reangle the exhaust manifold and weld it back together. This si the way I do all mine now. In fact, I recnetly took the engineback out of my black gti6205, put new std mounts on it and reangled the manifold after I broke 2 shafts within the space of a week.

 

How did you do your one Al???

 

Maxi

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Maxi- Well that's put things into perspective, is that a standard engine you broke two shafts with!? Pretty shocking really

 

How was the engine mounted before that happened?... and when you re-angled the manifold, did you completely leave the mounts and lower fork alone and just modify the area around the master cylinder?

[Spiky 37]

i've changed how mine was setup

 

i'm now running new bbm mounts and extended the bottom arm 8mm

 

and re-angled my brake servo

 

over the winter, i'm taking my engine out and cutting my bulkhead, then the engine will sit std

[Alastairh 47]

Adam.

 

I ran mine with a slightly exstended fork. As im sure your aware, my Sorrento has seen the odd bit of use, especially with a 4 branch Mi manifld previously fitted. But didn't need exstending as much as others have done, but thats just the difference between used 205 shells.

 

If i was to do it again (Which up until 1 week ago i was going to - running out of time till she drops) i would be following you, Dan and Carl with the re angled manifold. I started thinking about it logically. Go back to the Mi conversions. The biggest reason the exstended mount is so throwned apon over manifold modifications is because oil surge. So ok, the Xu10 has improved over this. But what makes it acceptable to still exstend these as a cost cutter but put drive train under risk like you've experienced with a heavier, taller block and then lower it?

 

Al

Edited July 28, 2008 by Alastairh

[maxi 36 1 Cars]

Adam.

 

I ran mine with a slightly exstended fork. As im sure your aware, my Sorrento has seen the odd bit of use, especially with a 4 branch Mi manifld previously fitted. But didn't need exstending as much as others have done, but thats just the difference between used 205 shells.

 

If i was to do it again (Which up until 1 week ago i was going to - running out of time till she drops) i would be following you, Dan and Carl with the re angled manifold. I started thinking about it logically. Go back to the Mi conversions. The biggest reason the exstended mount is so throwned apon over manifold modifications is because oil surge. So ok, the Xu10 has improved over this. But what makes it acceptable to still exstend these as a cost cutter but put drive train under risk like you've experienced with a heavier, taller block and then lower it?

 

Al

 

 

As I told Tom in a PM earlier, I spent a long time a few years ago with the engines in and out to get the angle of them just right. I have a jig for doing it now, Carl asked me the best way to do it and I gave him my experience.

 

Maxi

[whizzer71 0]

We re-angle the manifold use std type mounts (Normally BBM) and then space the pedal box at the bottom to get the master cylinder to clear the cam cover/pedal box,Having done several now and having tried several different methods I think this is probably the best and easiest way of doing it.

This also saves beating the bulkhead,These cars are starting to get rare now so at least doing it like this everything can be put back to std at any point in time with no detrimental effect to the car or shell itself,Its only a Q of time.

 

 

Tris

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Anybody have a photo of their re-angled manifold just to give me an idea, cheers.

[gti-si 0]

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.ph...7361&page=2

 

There you go

[Peetypug 5]

i'm now starting to get a bit annoyed

there are so many ways of doing this!

if i were to re-angle the exhaust manifold how much would have to be taken out?

just for example

cut it off square

then cutting down away from the block to say 10mm out

 

is that enough?

my problem is i aint very good at welding and i dont want to pay to have the engine taken out to have it welded then put back in

[whizzer71 0]

i'm now starting to get a bit annoyed

there are so many ways of doing this!

if i were to re-angle the exhaust manifold how much would have to be taken out?

just for example

cut it off square

then cutting down away from the block to say 10mm out

 

is that enough?

my problem is i aint very good at welding and i dont want to pay to have the engine taken out to have it welded then put back in

 

We just cut enough out of the pipes where they join the manifold to lower it by 5mm (But dont cut completely through them if you see what I mean just keep shaving a little at a time with an angle grinder till you can lower it sufficiently),I then get the manifold welded up by a local engineering firm as they tend to crack otherwise.

Bolt the manifold to the engine first remove your subframe and then install the engine from the bottom of the car,this is a damn site easier than messing about trying to bolt the manifold to the engine afterwards with it all in there !

Hope that helps

 

Tris