Steering Wanders On Long Bends

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

The story goes a little like this....

 

Since January under long fastish corners (especially right hander’s) the car would seemingly randomly wander in and out of the corners, at the time there was a little play on the rack, so I replaced the rack, both track arms and ends, and the adjoining UJ, the play has gone and the problem is still there,

 

Then I think, maybe it’s a worn wish bone bush, replace both arms, and anti roll bar bushes, the problem is still there,

 

while doing the above work I find the drivers side caliper is sticking on quite badly, So I replace the MC and both front calipers, still no luck,

 

The only thing steering wise I have not replaced is the top mounts, I know the passenger side is slightly worn as it knocks when I turn onto my drive, could it be these or could it possibly be worn engine mounts? The lowest mount is well shot I think, could this be causing it??

 

All advice appreciated

Paul

[kyepan 291]

front subframe mounting bolts - check for tightness.

Would guess the rack bolts are ok..

 

you've pretty much covered the lot at the front, perhaps turn your attention rear ward.

 

rear sandwich mounts, beam mounts, trailing arms...

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

front subframe mounting bolts - check for tightness.

Would guess the rack bolts are ok....

 

you've pretty much covered the lot at the front, perhaps turn your attention rear ward.

 

rear sandwich mounts, beam mounts, trailing arms...

 

The front subframe mounts are fine i replaced these when i did the lower arms as a matter of course, as were the rack bolts,

 

The reason im still concentrating on the front is the way the steering wheel snatches slightly, would this also happen if the problem was coming from the rear?? would it be a good idea to start at the back with new beam mounts and go from there??

 

Deffinatley not the engine mounts you think

Paul

 

EDIT: if it helps it feels like the problem has gotten worse since i replaced the front calipers, as the binding ones may have been masking the problem slightly....

Edited May 25, 2008 by M_R_205

[kyepan 291]

DrSarty had a funny wandering steering issue, car turned in suddenly on right handers, it was a knackered rear beam, not sure what though. Ask Anthony he helped remove it.

 

Sandwich mounts have got to be getting a bit long in the tooth by now. They are easy to change once you drop the beam off, which in itself only involves removing the rear sliencer, and undoing the brake unions. From what i understand they allow a bit of passive rear steer, and if old and perished when and how that happens becomes a bit random.

 

You could undo the bolts for them situe, cut them in half, and swap for group N solid ones (that used a bolt through rather than two studs in the rubber, without all the exhaust / brake hose nonsense. cheaper than a recon beam too.

 

If it still wanders after that, you could check the allignment of the rear using lazer alignment, any stupid camber or toe and you may either have a knackered trailing arm, rear wheel bearing, beyond that the beam experts on hear may be able to help.

 

I've had binding brakes on the 1.6 setup i had on the old MI, it pulled very definitly to the left under braking, this was markedly different to the lift off left, accelerator down right wandering from knackered wishbone bushes, and different once again from DR s 's sitting cornering, *bunk... sudden change of direction.. Its almost like something was rusted or stuck and only came unstuck at a certain ammount of load.

 

Engine mounts usually judder, and or cause the exhaust to hit the sub frame, but they are cheap and easy to replace, you can get a mildy upgraded 306 diesel mount for peanuts (instead of the 50 quid group a ones).

Edited May 27, 2008 by kyepan

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

Thanks for the reply, it sounds very simmilar to what Drsarty had, as its corners fine then all of a sudden pulls in, Very scary during long fast bends when your not expecting it,

 

il left the back of the car up today and see if anything is obvioulsy wrong, the solid rear mounts look easy enough to make so il try that first i think

 

Paul

[Goliath 94]

It could be tracking as i think this it whats wrong with mine atm, I do have other symptoms too though. I came to the conclusion that if its toeing in then as you turn the outside wheel gets more grip and therefore would turn to its line if it was toeing in. Does it wander at any other times? Mine will turn left if I drive over a manhole or puddle with my left wheel which would also tie in with it toeing in as the right wheel would get more grip and follow its line again.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

From your description I'd say its almost certainly the rear beam unfortunately.

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

Mine will turn left if I drive over a manhole or puddle with my left wheel

 

that will happen on all cars due to the extra resistance on the left wheel off the manhole impact or the water, easiest way to check the tracking is find a flat road and take your hands off the wheel, if it goes straigh accelerate and brake with you hands off, see if it pulls to one side,

 

 

From your description I'd say its almost certainly the rear beam unfortunately

 

what should i check for? play on the bushes, play on the trailing arms and camer/toe??

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Check for play on the trailing arms, get it up in the air with the wheels off, and pull/push the arms. Sometimes the play can feel miniscule but it really does have a big effect on the car. It can be difficult to detect play, but if you put a finger on the area between the arm and the beam tube whilst moving the arm with your other hand you can feel the movement between the two. I did a beam on a car for a guy off here a couple of weeks ago, there was very little play with the car in the air and pulling and pushing the arm, but it drove horribly and felt like it wanted to pitch you into the hedge at any moment. With the beam in bits the pivot shafts had worn only slightly on the outer ends, the bearing rollers had made indents into the shafts.

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

easiest way to check the tracking is find a flat road and take your hands off the wheel, if it goes straigh accelerate and brake with you hands off, see if it pulls to one side,

 

Thats not true IMO, what that checks is to see if the car geometry is ok to see if it's pulling left or right; most will tend to drift left due to road camber. If the car is wildy toeing in or out the wheels centralise anyway when driving straight. Accelerating without hands on the wheel will check the bushes and braking in a striaght line will check the brakes more than the suspension.

[M_R_205 5 1 Cars]

Thats not true IMO, what that checks is to see if the car geometry is ok to see if it's pulling left or right; most will tend to drift left due to road camber. If the car is wildy toeing in or out the wheels centralise anyway when driving straight. Accelerating without hands on the wheel will check the bushes and braking in a striaght line will check the brakes more than the suspension.

 

I see where your coming from, the reason i said a flat bit of road was so there is no camber and the car shouldnt pull left, as you say if the tracking is way out it wil drive straightish anyway but if the camber was that far out the steering would be massivly light, grumble/squeel like mad and be impossible to drive, as for the acelerating breaking, good point lol

[pug_ham 242 3 Cars]

When my STDT was doing similar this it was the hub that had started to go oval.

 

It got gradually worse before I replaced it when I found the balljoint had play in also but your wishbones are fairly new so you should be able to count that out.

 

Graham.

[dazEmad 0]

I am Having a similiar issue over 50mph around bends. Im Certain mine is the rear wheelbearing as it is making quite a noise when its been driven over 60 mph so its possible it could be that.

[Pugnut 9 1 Cars]

can i ask a stupid question ?

 

 

 

 

tyre pressures?

 

 

just ruling out the simple stuff!!