Closing Stages Of Gti-6 Conversion

[gti-si 0]

Well I'm drawing to a close with my Gti-6 conversion. Had a free day today and my new mounts had arrived! I went about replacing the the top engine mount with the RS2000 item, spaced with 10mm washer, then spaced the gearbox by 10mm also. The one thing I need to do is extend the bottom mount. How/where can I get this done? Im unsure of the best way to do, but know lots of you have done it so a little direction would be very apprieciated.

 

Second is wiring. It's pretty much done, however, 2 wires bug me. The first is a thick brown wire 'BB1' on the large gti-6 multiplug, which I believe (going off a wiring chart on the forum) is a permanant live. Question is, do I wire this straigh to the battery terminal or do I need to run it through a fuse first? In which case 25amp?

 

There is also the thick red wire '1200', does this need a switched live? I think it heads to the double relay, but what to do with it?

 

And finally, the ECU earth M444, is this the earth that is bolted to the head?

 

As far as I can work out everything I need to get the car running is at the big multiplug and I shouldn't have to locate any other wires should I?

 

Thanks in advance, and I realise there is alot of info covering wiring but these questions remain unanswered

Edited May 9, 2008 by gti-si

[Spiky 37]

1200 - fuel pump

141 - diagnostic socket

822 - antistart

465 - speedometer

140 - diagnostic socket

123 - fuel pump

220 - reverse driving light

1072 - charging light

415 - oil level indicator

820 - antistart

808 - aircon ?

426 - tacho (will not work on a 205gti dial)

c02j - switched 12+

cc4 - switched 12+

401 - coolant temp dial

480 - warning light engine management

821 - antistart

414 - oil level indicator

012 - > C12 - switched 12+

100 - starter

bb1 - 12+

 

you dont need to extend the bottom arm if you have enought clearance with the MC and ex manifold

 

make sure you have a switched live to pin 14 of the big ignition relay, grey cable

[gti-si 0]

Without extending the bottom arm I don't have enough clearance on the exhaust, it'll touch the bulkhead. The MC is fine now the engines been lowered. Thanks for the list, but it still leaves me abit clueless about the two wires. BB1 is a permanent live, so do I take that directly to the +ve termial or fuse it? And the fuel pump wire '1200', is this the output from the relay that sends the feed to the pump?

[Spiky 37]

extend the bottom arm about 5mm then

 

you could wire bb1 to a switch or perm live if you run it to the battery, you will need a fuse just in case,

 

i really cant remember what i did with mine,

 

1200, should connect to the fuel pump feed on the the brown plug

[gti-si 0]

Excellent, cheers Spiky. 25amp fuse do the trick?

 

Right, well I was thinking 7mm, so 5mm sounds good. Is it a hard job extending it? I guess I could get access to a welder, how should I go about it?

[welshpug 1,626]

I ran the wire you call BB1 (permanent live to the Relay) in this instance from the shunt box on the slam panel of my 205

 

(The wire in mine is Yellow as its a different loom, but has the same 14 pin relay)

Edited May 9, 2008 by welshpug

[Spiky 37]

10-15 should be fine

 

yeah trace around the edge of the mount, cut then reweld then re meausure

[Spiky 37]

if it was my car, i'd run it off a switched live, rather than perm

[welshpug 1,626]

but surely you wouldn't need it to be switched as the relay does the switching? (i.e the whole point of the relay) it still goes via a fuse in the shunt box as it did when the loom was in its original installation?

 

up to you of course how you do it.

[gti-si 0]

Ahhh excellent, hopefully should have it running tomorrow then! Cheers guys.

 

Anyone know where I can get a Be3 gearbox final drive drain plug from? Need to fill her up with some oil first.

[Spiky 37]

but surely you wouldn't need it to be switched as the relay does the switching? (i.e the whole point of the relay) it still goes via a fuse in the shunt box as it did when the loom was in its original installation?

 

up to you of course how you do it.

 

 

just reading another thread, they mention putting it on the alternator ring terminal, rather than the shunt box.

 

i guess it dont really matter

[welshpug 1,626]

No I suppose it doesn't really, if you do switch it you have a further point to immobilise it though, not a concern in my car as it has a well fitted cat 1 alarm.

 

Si you can get the drain plug from Peugeot or Citroen,

 

Part number; 2221 32

 

CASING PLUG DIAM M16 X 1.50- BVM BE3 £1.39, includes copper washer.

Edited May 9, 2008 by welshpug

[gti-si 0]

Nice one welshpug, i'll nip down before they shut. Need some hub nuts too.

 

I think i'm going to just connect BB1 to the shunt box, it makes life easier then and I know where i'm at.

 

Will it still kickover without a lambda sensor? Hoping it'll just run on a base map

[welshpug 1,626]

it will indeed, it'll run a bit rich but not badly, definitely something to sort out as soon as possible but it wont stop you getting it on the road.

[gti-si 0]

Ahh brilliant, well I've just ordered one so i'll have it next week. Wish me luck, will report back tomorrow with how I get on!

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Good luck with it matey, I'm starting my conversion next week hopefully! I've got all this wiring s*ite to come

[gti-si 0]

I've made a little table Oli, may help you and others out, may be utter sh*te, i'll post it anyway!

 

 

Thanks to Dreamweaver for the multiplug diagram

Edited May 10, 2008 by gti-si

[shooter mcgavin 37]

 

 

i extended mine 7mm

[gti-si 0]

I'm with ya, had to leave it at my mates garage for the weekend though. My welder isn't right for the job, it's a rod welder, needs a mig to do it right, i've asked for it to be extended 5/6mm, that will give me the clearance I need.

 

Peugeot also have no final drive drain plugs in the northwest! Typical, managed to get hold of an M16 Renault sump plug, not tried it yet, hopefully that should work.

 

Right, time to get cracking

[gti-si 0]

Well today after alot of pissing around I managed to get the alternator tensioned up and everything connected. Wired up the loom as shown in the diagram above and I still don't get a spark. I can't see why atall, ive traced the wire that goes to pin 14 on the relay (i think) and it's a cream wire CC4. It isnt very thick though, is this right?

 

Another thing, the engine turns over very fast, doesnt chug when turning over like cars usually do. Could this be a severe problem or is it just a powerfull starter motor? Im worried there's no compression :S

 

Edit: Will just add that the fuel pump isn't priming, isn't just on cranking

Edited May 10, 2008 by gti-si

[Spiky 37]

pin 14 of the double really which i think is cable 123 grey, needs the switched live, this controls the spark and fuel pump feed

[gti-si 0]

I've got grey 123 as the Lambda sensor, but I did give that a switched live, along with C12 and CC4 which is the only wire on the big multiplug that goes to the double relay so im guessing thats pin 14

[Spiky 37]

check with a multi meter to be sure

[gti-si 0]

i think I may not have connected the fuel pump correctly. I've read alot of posts saying white wire 120 goes to the fuel pump, yet I have red 1200 going to the pump, as thats stated in another topic, is that perhaps a diffference between VTS and GTi6 looms?

 

....I really hope it's not my inertia switch... Im sure i set it, but I didint check..I hadnt got round to bridging them as yet

 

Could be a very stupid moment

Edited May 10, 2008 by gti-si

[gti-si 0]

Right, today I took the multimeter down to my car. I'm not an electrician so didn't really know what to look for. I checked firstly I was getting switche 12v, I then located pin 14 on the double relay and as expected it was the Cream wire 'CC4'. Once this has recieved 12v, the relay then sends a 12v feed to red '1200'. There was a break in wire 76 (205 fuel pump) under the dash. Once I fixed this the fuel pump now primes....however...it doesn't stop priming. I can hear fuel flowing through the rail constantly, it sounds like its just recirculating it back into the outlet and back to the tank. When I crank it over it's not starting.

 

With a multimeter how can I test that the injectors are working and I'm getting a spark? There should be no other reason for no spark now, the TDC is connected, the lambda isn't present however, will I need to bridge anything for it too start?

 

My appologies for the amount of questions here, just having a hard time fixing it up, this is my first time at anything like this