Mi16 With Petert Pump Extension. . ..

[philfingers 5]

I thought i'd post this in a seperate thread:-

 

Ok here's a little of what I've done, more pics at http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z143/oi...%20Rally%20Car/

 

This setup is:- MI16 engine, Mi16 oil pump and spacer/ stiffener plate. Fitted with GTi6 sump, 26t oil pump drive wheel (fits on the crank), 52 link chain, chain guard, oil pump spring and windage tray. Fabricated chain guard mounts and oil pump baffle with trap door. All important PeterT oil pump extension

 

I used some 10mm steel bar to make some posts 14mm long. Drilled and tapped out to M6 these are welded to the mains bolts. I made them short with the intention of having to space them out to get the height right. Martin (CRF450) had already done this on an Mi16 engine but as it was fitted with a 8v crank (4kgs lighter apparently) I wasn't sure whether the 21mm he suggested would work with the std Mi16 crank. I ended up using 8mm plain nuts as spacers, bit awkward to fit but does the job. Total standoff above the mains bolts is 20mm, so I could have used Martin's suggestion! There's around a 3mm claerance with the crank/ big ends when rotated. M6 bolts used are lockwired in place. Windage tray (new with oil pump spring is £10.73 from a dealer) needs to be modded to allow the dipstick through into the sump (I used a 1/2" hole) and a little on the back side about half way down.

 

The Mi16 oil pump doesn't have any mounting bosses for the chain guard so I made some up. Note the use of the nuts. Nylocs are affected by hot oil, so these lock on using metal tabs. locktite for good measure. the chain gaurd stops the oil pump chain from frothing up the oil.

 

Stiffener/ spacer plate needs to have the webs cut out. You can argue that it's not so stiff but the alloy sump is a damn site stiffer than the steel sump pan and I'm not looking for more power (yet ) so I reckon it will work. If you think you need the stiffner webs then you can buy custom ones from PeterT to do just this. In fairness I spent a lot of time making the little mounting posts and welding (that what I called the method of attachment that looks like it was done by a blind monkey with a stick welder!) them to the mains bolts. You can buy the whole setup from Peter and it's a more complete method of mounting the windage tray. You can't use the Gti6 mains bolts, they're M12 and not M11 like the Mi16 ones.

 

Oil pump baffle was made with a lot of trail and error, took me hours. I did do a 'draw around' and I will scan this and post it at some point for anyone else who wants to use it. I made a little trap door for the oil to match the one on the Gti6 sump. Make sure the door is slightly shorter. That way if the sump gets a gentle thump it shouldn't stop it opening. I have a full forest guard on my car so hopefully won't be an issue. The large brass nuts are there for weight to help the door close.

 

Interestingly you can see from the one photo that the distance from the bottom of the windage tray to the max mark on the dipstick is ~47mm. BUT THIS IS FLAT, ie with the sump face flat and not inclined as it would be in the car. Worth thinking about increasing the oil level. Must be a good topic for debate.

 

The two counterbored holes in the front of the GTi6 can drilled (using 1/2" drill bit) 10mm deeper to use the std bolts.

 

Oil pump is a Mi16 one fitted with a PeterT extended pickup and Gti6 oil pump spring. I guess you could also use a Gti6 pump too. The drive wheels on the pumps are the same, its the one on the crank that has to be changed to the 26t one with 52 link chain. I made up a little mounting to hold the oil pump in the correct place in the sump pan (fitted with spacer plate too) whilst i made up the oil pump baffle plate. Also the one place where the fourth oil pump baffle plate bolt mounts to the pump I used another M8 plain nuts as a spacer and kept the baffle plate flat. Should see how effective the baffle plate is when I come to the first oil change, it should take a while to drain out1

 

All sealed up with blue hylomar.

 

It will probably be a while before I get around to getting the motor in as it's currenty 8v and I'm going to seam weld the engine bay while i have the time

[welshpug 1,627]

Very interesting read, though your top link doesnt work!

 

Also worth noting its the 1.9 Mi16 not the 2.0 right?

[nick 3]

Looks a nice job, it is my engine that Martin has done the posts for. I too have gone for chain cover and pump baffle as well as the windage tray. I'm running and 8v crank with 8v rods and the mi pistons machined to suit the rods, it should be in in the next couple of weeks so we shall see if it all worth it (surge wise)

 

Nick

[philfingers 5]

Yep 1900 Alloy block. Try this link, http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z143/oi...%20Rally%20Car/

 

Phil

[philfingers 5]

I've scanned the pattern of the oil pump baffle for anyone who wants to use it

 

Phil

Mi16_Oil_pump_baffle.PDF

[Guest gilou-bilou]

Nice job, thanks !

[Guest Tox]

Hi phil.

Did you cutoff the ribbs on the sumpspacer/stiffner? It looks like that on the pictures.

If you did, don't you think you lose a lot of meaning with the stiffner?

[philfingers 5]

Stiffener/ spacer plate needs to have the webs cut out. You can argue that it's not so stiff but the alloy sump is a damn site stiffer than the steel sump pan and I'm not looking for more power (yet ) so I reckon it will work. If you think you need the stiffner webs then you can buy custom ones from PeterT to do just this. In fairness I spent a lot of time making the little mounting posts and welding (that what I called the method of attachment that looks like it was done by a blind monkey with a stick welder!) them to the mains bolts. You can buy the whole setup from Peter and it's a more complete method of mounting the windage tray. You can't use the Gti6 mains bolts, they're M12 and not M11 like the Mi16 ones.

 

The alloy sumps are far stiffer than the std steel ones fitted to some Mi's.

[kyepan 291]

is there any way of fitting the windage tray using standard main bolts? either standard mi-16 or standard something else? You mentioned that they are m12 for gti-6 and m11 for mi.

 

 

also just to be clear, the two holes bored out of the sump, is this needed if using the MI spacer plate?

 

cheers

 

J

[philfingers 5]

Erm the holes wouldn't need to be bored out if you weren't using the spacer, at least I don't think so!

You really need to either buy PeterT's proper spacer assembly with the webs to mount the windage tray or weld the little bosses on. If there are some std M11 bolts which you can use I'm not aware of them. You could use the M12 ones from the '6' BUT they would need doing by a machine shop and would cost more to do then buying PeterT's kit,

 

Phil