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XLR8

205 Twisted Arb?

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XLR8

Hi there, I am currently in the process of raising my rear ride height (for rallying) I did everything correct & now have both my trailing arms hanging at the correct height from the chassis & both identical. Problem is when I bolt the ARB back on one side, the other side's end plate does not line up with the hole in the trailing arm (its exactly between the splines & if I try to fit anyway, it causes the trailing arms to be un-even)...

 

Has anyone else had this before? are twisted ARB's common? Is there anyway round it other than just buying a new arb?

 

Thanks!

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niklas

It's the same as with the torsion bars, you have to rotate the ARB until both end plates line up with the bolt holes in the trailing arms!

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Jrod

I've always just done it up as it is, can only cause a bit of preload in the ARB

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niklas
I've always just done it up as it is, can only cause a bit of preload in the ARB

 

The ARB will be stiffer when turning one direction and softer when turning the other direction!!

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XLR8
The ARB will be stiffer when turning one direction and softer when turning the other direction!!

 

 

Exactly, which in turn will make the rear end unstable.

 

Does it sound like a new ARB needed (if its twisted has it had it?) or should I just redrill a new hole in the end plate to bolt on to the trailing arm...

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welshpug

are you doing it with one side bolted down? the holes are slotted so if you loosen the opposite side you should be able to fit the end plate so that the bolt goes in without any tension.

 

check that the trailing arms are 100% at the same height.

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XLR8
are you doing it with one side bolted down? the holes are slotted so if you loosen the opposite side you should be able to fit the end plate so that the bolt goes in without any tension.

 

check that the trailing arms are 100% at the same height.

 

Hi, The holes are only very slightly slotted & even with the other side at the end of the slot, this side is still about 8mm out.... ok not a million miles I know, but too much to just ignore it.

Both arms are hanging at exactly the same height, right down the the millimeter.

 

There is enough metal to redrill a new hole, but if this arb has been twisted does this mean it had enough?

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niklas
Hi, The holes are only very slightly slotted & even with the other side at the end of the slot, this side is still about 8mm out.... ok not a million miles I know, but too much to just ignore it.

Both arms are hanging at exactly the same height, right down the the millimeter.

 

There is enough metal to redrill a new hole, but if this arb has been twisted does this mean it had enough?

 

As I said, you have to rotate the ARB until it lines up!

Rotate the ARB one spline on one of the brackets, then try putting the other bracket on so the holes line up. If they don't rotate the first bracket one more spline and try again. And so on...

It's exactly the same as with the torsion bars where you adjust the trailing arms to the correct height and then rotate the torsions bars until they slide in.

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XLR8
As I said, you have to rotate the ARB until it lines up!

Rotate the ARB one spline on one of the brackets, then try putting the other bracket on so the holes line up. If they don't rotate the first bracket one more spline and try again. And so on...

It's exactly the same as with the torsion bars where you adjust the trailing arms to the correct height and then rotate the torsions bars until they slide in.

 

I understand what you say, but when I dismantled it I only removed one end plate to get the arb out.. So logic would say when I reassembled it It would go back on where it came off...

But I will try your technique before I do any thing else to it.

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Jrod

I've read it on here many times that people just have the bit of the preload in the ARB with no problems.

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niklas
I understand what you say, but when I dismantled it I only removed one end plate to get the arb out.. So logic would say when I reassembled it It would go back on where it came off...

But I will try your technique before I do any thing else to it.

 

Oh.. I thought you removed both end plates.

As somebody else said, are you sure the trailing arms are the same height? And were they the same height before? A previous owner/mechanic may have preferred the "preload" way...

 

If you remove the ARB from the car and put it on the floor with the end plates on, you'll immediately see how they do differ a little.

The quickest way is to rotate the ARB while measuring on the floor until both end plates touch the floor likewise.

If the end plates have edges that make them different put the ARB on two identical wooden pieces and the "measurement" will be ok.

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XLR8
As I said, you have to rotate the ARB until it lines up!

Rotate the ARB one spline on one of the brackets, then try putting the other bracket on so the holes line up. If they don't rotate the first bracket one more spline and try again. And so on...

It's exactly the same as with the torsion bars where you adjust the trailing arms to the correct height and then rotate the torsions bars until they slide in.

 

 

Ok, fully removed the arb & both end-plates today.. tried rotating one end plate 1 spline at a time, then trying the other end plate on... No matter what, I just couldnt get both sides the same, one plate is always in-between the splines & thus 10mm higher or lower than the other side..

 

Any other suggestions?

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Pugnut

i've rarely seem an arb go in and line up with both sides mm perfect . a little adjustment of one of the arms is usually always required

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XLR8
i've rarely seem an arb go in and line up with both sides mm perfect . a little adjustment of one of the arms is usually always required

 

If I just put it back how it is, one wheel will be higher than the other & the pre-loading will be different on each wheel... not a big deal I know- But im trying to get the rear end handling as good a spossible for the rallys.. Its mainly the jumps & bumps that I want the set up to be spot on for.

 

 

Im guessing that re-drilling one end plate may be the best Idea..

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Jrod
If I just put it back how it is, one wheel will be higher than the other & the pre-loading will be different on each wheel... not a big deal I know- But im trying to get the rear end handling as good a spossible for the rallys.. Its mainly the jumps & bumps that I want the set up to be spot on for.

Im guessing that re-drilling one end plate may be the best Idea..

 

 

It wont be a different height as the load will be spread on both sides.

 

Never had a problem with it when doing bups and jumps in our rallys.

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