Exhaust Still Glowing Red Hot!

[matt-k 0]

Hi ive been trying to stop my exhaust manifold from glowing red hot after about 5 minutes of running on tick over, ive tried altering the timing via the dizzy & altered the fuel settings on my carbs.

I managed to get hold of a compression tester yesturday and the results are as follows 205, 220, 200, 225 psi. Is this ok?

I also removed the rocker cover and spark plugs, placed a screw driver down No1 hole so it rested on the piston, lent a ruler behind it for measurment and turned it over by hand to see when the valves opened & closed in relation to the piston (technical hey!) I found that the exhaust valves begin to open approx 15mm before the ignition stroke reaches the bottom of its stroke & the inlet valve is still in the process of closing for approx 15mm on its way up the cylinder on the compression stroke. Is this normal?

Another mechanic i spoke to today who lent me the compression tester says i may have the inlet & exhaust cams the wrong way round? what do you think? I noted the markings on them, the inlet has j2 stamped on it and kI at the other end and the exhaust has A2 and Lj stamped on it, mean anything?

Also is it possible to mix up the pulleys?

 

I know its alot of questions but any help is appreciated.

 

Cheers, Matt.

[Tom Fenton 1,563]

Ignition timing.

[DamirGTI 345]

Ditto , the ignition timing (in retarded position especially , but in too advanced also ) can result with glowing exh. manifold together with the wrong (too rich) air/fuel mixture at idle and on over-run ..

 

I'd try and play a little bit with the ignition timing , but sort out the air/fuel mixture (at idle and off idle ..) first and then adjust the timing .

 

Rgs !

Damir

Edited March 6, 2008 by DamirGTI

[matt-k 0]

To get the car running from cold i have to put the dissy on nearly full advance, once ive got it running i can back it of a bit and ive played about with this alot but the results are always the same. Red hot. Ive also played about with fuel setting on the carbs but no joy. Does anyone have any answers to my above questions as im trying to eliminate possible causes.

 

Thanks, Matt.

[sutol 0]

Is the vac advance fitted and working

[woodsy 0]

If you can start it only by having the dizzy all way advanced then is that pointing to the belt timing is too far retarded.Could only be one tooth out.I just put my old 8v motor in a car and used timing pins but damn thing kept locking up as think the head has been skimmed that many times its thrown the valve timing out.Anyway got it running by getting piston top dead and valves shut on that piston and trying it then but also had to have dizzy all way advanced so moved pulley one or two teeth advaned and now got it spot on with dizzy in middle.

[matt-k 0]

Thanks, so do i just advance the inlet cam 1 tooth or the inlet and exhaust?

 

Cheers, Matt.

[matt-k 0]

Or would retarding the crank 1 tooth have the same effect?

[woodsy 0]

i think i would advance the inlet cam 1 tooth and see how u get on.Also turn engine over by hand twice before starting it just to make sure no valves are hitting piston, dont want that.

[matt-k 0]

Ive advanced the inlet cam 1 tooth and it seems to have improved things, unfortunatly i had to remove my aternator to get to the belt tensioner and now my batteries flat and my new charger gave up with a puff of smoke so i need to get another one before i can make any more progress!

Im thinking of retarding the exhaust cam 1 tooth so it remains closed for longer on the ignition stoke. (see my first post above) What do you think?