Base Model Balljoints

[brian j 31]

I am trying to split the front suspension balljoints on a base model deisel (my runaround).

 

I have removed the pinch bolt and tried to lever the balljoint out. I can get the joint apart a bit (you can just see the machined grove in the shaft that the bolt engages with) but I cannot get it to come out the last few mm. I have tried a big hammer, a 10ft length of scaffold pole on the end of a crowbar and numerous wedges. I have tried wedging the hub carrier groove open with a big screwdriver. I have tried holding the bottom arm down with said scaffold pole while jacking the hub up. I have tried everything I can think of this afternoon for about 5 hrs!

 

The shaft of the balljoint is free to move around in the hub carrier, not siezed. It is like there isn't enough suspension movement to get them apart, which I know is rubbish.

 

I am normally OK with mechanicals and am feeling cold tired and thick because I can't find any reference to anyone else having this problem.

 

What am I missing?

 

Can I use a balljoint splitter on the joint without damaging the rubber cover? It doesnt look like it but...

 

Any help would be appreciated!

 

B

Edited February 16, 2008 by brian j

[Rob Thomson 6]

I don't think you're missing anything, sometimes they can be complete bastards.

 

Try compressing the strut with a spring compressor and/or undoing the bolt at the inner end of the TCA.

[brian j 31]

I don't think you're missing anything, sometimes they can be complete bastards.

 

Try compressing the strut with a spring compressor and/or undoing the bolt at the inner end of the TCA.

 

Thanks,

 

I'll give it a go tomorrow.

[steve@cornwall 100]

I hate doing these! I normally end up having to undo the other end of the arm at the subframe, the ARB nut and remove the whole bottom arm. Strange thing is that once all else is removed, the arm usually falls off the hub

[Jrod 7]

Make sure you have both front wheels jacked up, lever bar between subframe and arb and it should pop out.

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

I just put a chisel in the back of the hub to open it up a bit (the groove where the ball joint bolt goes),lever on the lower arm with a bar and if it still wont go i normally get someone to push in and out on the hub while im pulling down,the ball joint normally sticks because it goes on the squiff when its almost out and jams. Also some WD40 never goes a miss

[welshpug 1,626]

DO NOT use a lever or chisel in the clamp!

 

Have an assistant push the hub inwards as you lever the arm down with a logn bar with the opposite end on the trackrod end.

[AdamP 0]

DO NOT use a lever or chisel in the clamp!

 

Why's that? *guilty face*

[welshpug 1,626]

they break easily enough by overtightening without some numpty stretching the clamp the wrong way!!

[pug_ham 241 3 Cars]

Try compressing the strut with a spring compressor and/or undoing the bolt at the inner end of the TCA.

Thats how I used to get them out after once or twice struggling with a scaffold pole.

 

I ended up getting an old handbrake cable & cutting one end off so I could use it as a spring clamp by threading it through the strut top & lower spring pan holes, round & back up into the engine bay with a nut & bolt to clamp the end. Worked fine, just like the Peugeot cables shown in the haynes manual.

 

Graham.

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

they break easily enough by overtightening without some numpty stretching the clamp the wrong way!!

 

Never seen one break yet,as long as you dont go to mad with it,only want to open it up a bit. Iv been in the trade long enough and done enough to know it works fine. And how could you break one doing it up,it would strip the threads on the bolt before breaking the clamp.

Edited March 21, 2009 by pugdamo

[welshpug 1,626]

repeated over-tightening and repeated un-necessary stretching of the hub will cause it to fail, there have been many instances of oval hubs in recent times.

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

Oval hubs yes,but that seems to be more of an issue with 306/zx/Xsara,never had the problem with a 205,the casting or materials was probably better when the 205 was built. I still dont agree with the whole chisel causes it issue,if you open it slightly with a chisel,do whatever your doing and when refitting the ball joint tighten it up correctly and it will close back up,the oval hub is caused by the ball joint shaft moving around in the hub and wearing it out,normally caused by not tightening enough. And overtightening it would strip the threads on the bolt before it damaged the hub anyway.