Cracked Block 1.6.. Able To Repair?

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

Hi in response to my earlier post about the water leak on my 1.6..

 

Turns out it's a crack in the block from somwhere directly under the inlet manifold..

 

Is there any way this can be repaired? Has anyone used Wondarweld before?

 

Would it have to be welded up properly?

 

Cheers Rob

[Nathan 0]

Mine cracked like this, was fine for a few months (just a slow steady leak), but then it started to open up more. I ended up swapping the engine as this was the easiest option.

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

I could swap the engine but im not able to do that easily in my position. I'm currently in the process of buying the car, and need to drive it 70 miles home so even a temporary fix would be acceptable.

 

Is there a way of sealing the crack with good results? Has anyone repaired a crack before?

 

Otherwise a new engine will have to be the only way, though im trying to avoid this option.

 

Thanks, Rob

[taylorspug 7]

As a *temporary* fix, chemical metal or the like would do it for the journey home id imagine, then id get it over to somewhere with welding facilities, get the inlet manifold off and have it welded up. Seeing as you are from Brighton you arent far from me, however i dont have the equipment to weld up a block. May be worth giving QEP a call, they are local and will probably be able to help.

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

Sweet. You mean chemical metal like the tubes/putty you can buy in halford's?

 

Does it need to cure/harden under heat from the engine? Or maybe just fill the gap and use a hairdryer/blowtorch? (sorry might sound daft but never used it before)

 

If a block is welded, will it be useable as new or will the welded crack always be a weak point on the engine? I'm guessing that location has thin walls. (under inlet manifold)

 

Is the block alloy or cast iron? Wouldnt alloy be more expensive/harder to weld?

 

Cheers Rob

[large 33]

Someone has replaced the the head gaskit and left the big spacer out replacing the engine is the cheapest and easiest option.

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

So has the lack of spacer reduced the compression ratio and caused excess pressure thus the crack? (just a guess, like to learn about thse things)

 

What is the big spacer? does it bolt between the block and head?

 

As long as liquid metal will hold til i get back to Brighton all is good, i can source a new engine from somewhere.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

If I were you I'd join the AA/Greenflag/RAC with recovery cover, then drive it a mile down the road from where you are buying it, then ring them out for a ride home......

[Arahan 4]

Think he means the head bolt spacers, theres a larger one where the water pump resides iirc and if the larger one isnt put back here then the head bolt here goes to far. (i think )

[large 33]

^^^^^ Spot on that man . Whan you change the HG you replace the bolts as well all the bolts are the same length, were the water pump is in the block it is right under the back l/h/s bolt. So you need

A: a shorter bolt

B: a spacer

Pug went for option B, so if you leave the spacer out the bolt goes to the water pump housing putting a crack or hole in to the block.

If you wanted to weld it properly you would need to heat the block up untill its cherry red weld it then cool it down slowly in an oven. So the block would have to be bare.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Hi in response to my earlier post about the water leak on my 1.6..

 

Turns out it's a crack in the block from somwhere directly under the inlet manifold..

 

 

 

Cheers Rob

 

 

unless it's actually under the exhaust manifold, it won't be the headbolt spacer mis-hap

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

Ah.. Welding it is not an option then loads of hassle..

 

Stripping the block down, welding it then putting it back together & set up would cost a fortune on my budget!

 

New engine is the only option.

 

So, either way i have to get the car to Brighton. As Tom Fenton said, the RAC might be a good plan! But if i can fix it with some chemical metal or another sort of sealant just for that journey?

 

Do you folks think chemical metal would work? Guess i would just get underneath the car, slap it generously in the crack and wait for it to harden? Then fill with water, start it and see what happens. Maybe it will hold for longer than excpected, maybe not at all!

 

Does anyone have a spare 1.6 engine near Brighton/Sussex/London? Would travel, load it into the boot and find a garage with an engine winch to fit it. What sort of labour costs could I excpect to pay for fitting a new lump, ie. how many hours?

 

again any help much appreciated. Thanks, rob

[Guest shiftyshuffle]

I haven't seen the car in a week, but when we looked the leak was coming from underneath the inlet manifold (looking at the front of the engine toward the rear of the car with the timing belt on the left end) in 2 streams in the middle of the block (horizontally). I had to go and left it with a mechanic, who later said the block is cracked.

[taylorspug 7]

Ah.. Welding it is not an option then loads of hassle..

 

Stripping the block down, welding it then putting it back together & set up would cost a fortune on my budget!

 

New engine is the only option.

 

So, either way i have to get the car to Brighton. As Tom Fenton said, the RAC might be a good plan! But if i can fix it with some chemical metal or another sort of sealant just for that journey?

 

Do you folks think chemical metal would work? Guess i would just get underneath the car, slap it generously in the crack and wait for it to harden? Then fill with water, start it and see what happens. Maybe it will hold for longer than excpected, maybe not at all!

 

Does anyone have a spare 1.6 engine near Brighton/Sussex/London? Would travel, load it into the boot and find a garage with an engine winch to fit it. What sort of labour costs could I excpect to pay for fitting a new lump, ie. how many hours?

 

again any help much appreciated. Thanks, rob

 

PM me regarding the engine, i may be able to sort something out for you in the next couple of weeks and could fit it also. As i said before im just outside Brighton.

 

Ive seen the chemical metal thing work before, but its hard to say without seeing the extent of the damage on your engine.

[Guest OldGit]

PM me regarding the engine, i may be able to sort something out for you in the next couple of weeks and could fit it also. As i said before im just outside Brighton.

 

Ive seen the chemical metal thing work before, but its hard to say without seeing the extent of the damage on your engine.

 

i used chemical metal type stuff (actually 'steel stick') to bodge a leaky core plug on a mk2 escy for a couple of weeks. it wasn't fantastically successful over that period, but for 70odd miles might be ok. if you go that route you need to make sure that the area is as close to clinically clean as possible (absolutely no grease) and bone dry - unless you have a product for use underwater - such things do exist for the undersea pipeline and rig industry. meths or carb cleaner and plenty of clean clean rags would be a good way of cleaning up. don't envy you the location tho. follow the pack instructions to the letter. you can't really expect it to bridge a major breach, just minor holes or hairline stuff. could be worth considering using the stuff to stick a coin over the hole? again the coin would need to be uber clean.

 

if you're going to drive it with such a temporary repair, i'd be inclined to have plenty of water on board for emergency top ups!