Any Cheap / Easy Rallye (uk Spec) Engine Mods?

[TaylorsTDGTI 0]

Hi Guys.

 

Ive added a UK spec Rallye to my collection. It has a standard 1360cc TU Iron block. Its OK, but certainly could do with some sort of tuning / modification to improve the output.

 

Ive searched the forums, and its great to see so much TU engine tuning tips, but all seem to be quite 'involving and costly', id also like to stay on the carb / mechanical engine route. Can anyone give me a few simple mods that i can do myself on a reasonable budget?

 

I dont fancy doing a engine change all by myself, or trying to wire in electronic ignition. I think i could comfortably change heads / manifolds myself though if this was worth while.

 

So far i have the following ideas:

 

XS Carbs

Ehaust manifold

Head change - which head would be best please???

 

Any small pointers would be helpful as ive only played with XU and DERV engines before.

 

Cheers,

 

James

Edited January 2, 2008 by TaylorsTDGTI

[Jrod 7]

Swap to an XS engine to gain 10bhp and lose 20kg

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

saxo vtr on bike carbs

[TaylorsTDGTI 0]

Maybe a bit too much for me to do by myself.

 

How much wiring does it require to go from carb to injection? Surely all the gauges need to be re-wired, loom installed, injection fuel tank etc??

 

Anyone want to build a VTR on carb engine for me and fit it?

 

JT

Edited January 3, 2008 by TaylorsTDGTI

[Sandy 191]

It's all a big job really, as Jrod says,a swap to the XS engine is the only "simple" way to improve it, without getting into a cycle of mismatching and poor running.

[TaylorsTDGTI 0]

Yep. Looks like an XS engine then.

 

The follwing guide (Off the AX owners club) is how to make a Carb 1.6 TU engine: http://www.axoc.co.uk/wiki/doku.php?id=gtr_engine

 

Would this work for me?

Im guessing id have to use the XS head and carb instead of my head and carb?

Would my Rallye gearbox fit this setup OK?

 

James

[Batfink 201]

I'd rather fit the 1.3 rallye engine from the 106 than a vtr

[Jrod 7]

Sorry, you don’t have enough rights to continue. Perhaps you forgot to login? This Wiki is only avaliable to Paid members.

[TaylorsTDGTI 0]

Copy and pasted for your reference...

 

GTR Engine Conversion

 

Start with a standard GT engine.

Using the bottom half of a VTR engine (Phase 1 or 2) and swap it with the GT bottom end.

Phase 1 is the older Blacktop, and the Phase 2 is the newer Silver top engine

This will convert your engine to a 1400cc from a 1600cc .

 

To do this, you will need the following:

 

*

GT Head plus ancilleries (though you can use bottom end ancilleries from the VTR)

*

VTR Bottom end, (Phase 1 will give you a lower compression ratio than a phase 2)

*

MLS (Multi Layered Steel) Head gasket

*

Adjustable Camshaft Sprocket

*

VTR Starter Motor (Though GT will work)

 

All you have to do is remove the GT bottom end, and replace it with the VTR bottom end. Removing the Engine

Removing the head whilst the engine is still in the car means you do not have to raise the front of the AX as high to pull the engine out from under.

Then its up to your whether you rebuild the GTR engine whilst it is out, but bare in mind this will mean that you will have to raise the car more to get it back under to reinstall.

Then its just the reversal of removal to refit.

Cam timing on this is relitavely the same as standard, though it does need advancing by a few degrees, hence the need for the adjustable cam sprocket. Piper, Kent or equivelent will suffice.

 

The GT Solex Carburretor will need to be rejetted for optimum performance, as it will be jetted for a 1400cc engine and not 1600cc. However it will cope very well, and only needs the mixture adjustment reseting to cope.

Bottom end Prep

 

The VTR Bottom end will not have timing marks on the fly or block. Whilst the bottom is seperated, you need to turn the engine at the crank so pistons 1 and 4 are at TDC. The more accurate the better, but is not crucial. Once at TDC, you need to make a clear mark on the flywheel and on the engine wall so they line up and shows when it is at tdc. You can make degree markings at increments of 2 or 4 degrees up to 24 degrees either side whilst you have good access. I used white car body paint to do this, as it shows up better.

 

The reason for this is so when you make cam timing adjustments you know when the bottom end is at tdc, and also makes ignition timing alot easier to adjust using a strobe.

Timing

 

So you dont get confused...

Cam Timing

 

This is the adjustment of the camshaft to the crank shaft, at the timing belt end. With the crank locked, turning the camshaft (whilst facing it) clockwise, advances the timing, and anticlockwise retards the timing. This setup requires the cam timing to adjusted so it is advanced. Remember that everytime you make adjustments to this you also need to re adjust the ignition timing. If you use an adjustable camshaft sprocket, you are advised to follow manufacturers instructions so you do not bend valves.

Ignition Timing

 

This is turning the distributor which adjusts when there is a spark at the spark plugs. Facing this, turning it clockwise, advances timing, and anticlockwise retards timing. Using a strobe connect it to spark plug number 1 and lead 1. Point it at the fly and with the engine running you should see the timing marks you made light up. If they line up then timing is at tdc. Idealling you want the timing to be about 8 degrees before tdc (advanced), so the timing mark on the wheel needs to move up and light up before the tdc mark on the engine block. Pictures to follow

[calvinhorse 870]

im selling a mint vtr bottom end

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=84372

[Sandy 191]

The VTR engine with a single carb and distributor doesn't work very well at all, many people have wasted alot of time and money going down this (seemingly easy) route.

[TaylorsTDGTI 0]

thats a shame. So it looks like a modified xs engine for me if i want to stay on the carb / distributor path.

 

performance xs engine / parts to be added to the wanted section then!

 

JT

[Sandy 191]

Best to keep it simple and save for more serious work down the line IMO yes.

[stu_woac 1]

to make the rallye feel faster puting the xs gearbox on helps as the uk rallye has a long box

[TaylorsTDGTI 0]

Thanks for all the wise pointers. I think your all quite right. Im going to keep it simple, just fit an xs engine complete with gearbox and enjoy it for a while. A cam, manifold etc can all come at a later date.

 

JT

[TaylorsTDGTI 0]

I wouldnt normally post in the wrong section (but as i cant post in the wanted section yet) but as its kind of linked to the topic - If anyone has a XS engine and box i can drop into my rallye, im interested in buying.

 

Cheers

 

James

[kanyeost 0]

There's a guy breaking an xs in Abingdon if that's close to you. He's on ebay and doesn't mention the engine but might be worth a try, just search for 205 xs.

[TaylorsTDGTI 0]

Already spoken to him. Engine not available, but thank you for letting me know. JT

[Sandy 191]

Good one Stu, I didn't think of that, the gearbox change certainly does liven it up!