Two Questions - Fan Switch And Gearstick

[Pob 1]

Hi all,

 

I have two questions for you..

 

First one, I think I have a faulty fan switch... I went to Peugeot and enquired but there is a few choices on temperatures. At the moment it cuts in both fans at full speed just slightly over 4 bars on the temp gauge. Normal running is 4 bars, so it cuts in alot and is very annoying. Any ideas which one I should go for so it doesn't cut in so often.

 

Second question, The gearstick movement in my 205 is very wierd. The sideways movement is very notchy, I've been told there is bushes that mounts the gearstick and wear, is this true and is it hard to sort out?

 

Thanks,

Dan

[tom_m 0]

First one, I think I have a faulty fan switch... I went to Peugeot and enquired but there is a few choices on temperatures. At the moment it cuts in both fans at full speed just slightly over 4 bars on the temp gauge. Normal running is 4 bars, so it cuts in alot and is very annoying. Any ideas which one I should go for so it doesn't cut in so often.

 

4 bars on the coolant temp gauge is 90 degrees, you don't want it running much hotter than that. the fan switch should be dual stage as standard and there should be a slow fan that keeps things under control usually. it sounds very much like your slow speed is faulty. i'm running an 87-92 (iirc) switch. the slow speed kicks in at 87 and high speed at 92. i never get high speed coming on during normal driving.

 

the hotter one is something like 90-103 (approx) and IMO it leaves cooling too late on an ageing cooling system

 

if you rad is in good condition the fans rarely kick in at all, i've seen cars with new rads barely get above 80 degrees.

Edited December 14, 2007 by tom_m

[Pob 1]

4 bars on the coolant temp gauge is 90 degrees, you don't want it running much hotter than that. the fan switch should be dual stage as standard and there should be a slow fan that keeps things under control usually. it sounds very much like your slow speed is faulty. i'm running an 87-92 (iirc) switch. the slow speed kicks in at 87 and high speed at 92. i never get high speed coming on during normal driving.

 

the hotter one is something like 90-103 (approx) and IMO it leaves cooling too late on an ageing cooling system

 

if you rad is in good condition the fans rarely kick in at all, i've seen cars with new rads barely get above 80 degrees.

 

 

I've replaced the rad about 2 weeks ago, and it still runs the same temp so I don't think its down to the Rad. When i got the car it didn't have a stat fitted and it ran around 2 bars, fitted a stat and it went upto 4 bars.. As far as I know its a 89c stat. I have a dual fan fitted and it cuts in at full speed, what would cause this? the switch? It also cuts in sometimes when the engine is off which is a little strange.

 

The coolant is clean and new, the heater matrix is new. Although for some reason, it doesn't have a oil cooler fitted. Its been removed for one reason or another, this could be the reason it runs a little hotter than normal?

 

Thanks,

Dan

Edited December 14, 2007 by Pob

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

It sounds to me like the slow speed is not working, this means that the temperature is allowed to climb higher than it normally would, meaning the fast speed is kicking in and out controlling the temp.

I have had the same problem myself on my old 405Mi16, replacing the fan switch for a new one cured things.

[Pob 1]

It sounds to me like the slow speed is not working, this means that the temperature is allowed to climb higher than it normally would, meaning the fast speed is kicking in and out controlling the temp.

I have had the same problem myself on my old 405Mi16, replacing the fan switch for a new one cured things.

 

 

Thanks for the reply. So the 87-92 is the one to go for? I'm also going to fit an oil cooler. Would a 13 row cooler be an over kill? Also would the sandwich plate with or without a stat be best?

 

Thanks again,

Dan

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

If fitting an oil cooler make 100% sure you actually need one to cool the oil, don't just use it as a band aid to a water system not working correctly. Oil that is not hot enough is just as bad as oil that is too hot.

If you decide you are going to fit an oil cooler then an inline thermostat or thermostatic sandwich plate is a MUST in my opinion.

[Anthony 1,000]

Thanks for the reply. So the 87-92 is the one to go for?

Not without having an 82 degree 'stat it isn't - you need to have a cooler running thermostat than the fan switching temperature, otherwise the fan will be on continuously once the engine has warmed up.

 

As for an oil cooler, as mentioned above, do you actually need one? On the standard gauge, unless the oil temperature is regularly straying into the second half of the gauge and you do trackdays I wouldn't personally say that you need one.

[Pob 1]

Not without having an 82 degree 'stat it isn't - you need to have a cooler running thermostat than the fan switching temperature, otherwise the fan will be on continuously once the engine has warmed up.

 

As for an oil cooler, as mentioned above, do you actually need one? On the standard gauge, unless the oil temperature is regularly straying into the second half of the gauge and you do trackdays I wouldn't personally say that you need one.

 

 

I thought as standard the 1.9's have a cool cooler fitted? What stat temp is the correct one? I thought 89 was and 82 was for the auto? If Im running a 89c stat, what rad temp switch would be the best one? From past cars, the full fan speed cuts in at high temps, 92 isn't exactly high is it? 103 is high in my books.

 

My oil temp gauge isn't working at the moment, think I need a new sender. So i'm unsure of temps.

 

Thanks,

Dan

Edited December 14, 2007 by Pob