Livelee 0 Posted October 20, 2007 (edited) I've got a 309 with standard servo and MC. Engine wise it used to have a 1.9mi in it and i've just fitted a 2.0mi. The engine is almost touching the MC and i'm sure when the engine is fired up and moves it will hit the MC. If I removed the servo the MC would have more room. I'm running 306 HDi front calipers and standard 309 rear. Any thought / reccomendations on this course of action? Many Thanks Dan Edited October 20, 2007 by Livelee Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bonzai 2 Posted October 20, 2007 ive run without servo assistance for a month or so, and i would not advise it. seems ok in most circumstances, but one time i experienced someone pulling out on me on a fast road and i couldnt find it in me to stop in time i had to take avoiding action, luckily there was no oncoming traffic. I think there is an easier solution of packing out the drivers side engine mount a couple of mm. Or change MC altogether, i think tom m is doing this for clearance on his turbo project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Livelee 0 Posted October 20, 2007 The car is a 100% track car if that makes a difference. I don't mind having to press the pedal harder, just as long as the brakes are at least as good as servo assisted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Livelee 0 Posted October 21, 2007 Right, i've removed it all. What a pain in the arse job that is. The new plan is to cut the mounting plate (that bolts to the baulkhead) and reweld it at a greater angle to allow the MC to clear the engine. I've got a new MC from somewhere, but not sure what Peugeot it came from. It says BOSCH 22 down the side and has a detachable header tank. Would fitting this give a better peddle feel over the standard MC, bearing in mind the 307 calipers. Cheers Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom_m 0 Posted October 21, 2007 (edited) if you're getting rid of the servo get a proper peddle box with correctly sized master cylinders. anything else will just be dangerous. and the 22mc is the perfect choice for the hdi callipers if you're still running a servo Edited October 21, 2007 by tom_m Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Livelee 0 Posted October 22, 2007 Cheers Tom. As it looks "easy" to cut and reweld the servo mounting plate at a new angle that's the current plan. I'll keep the servo and use the 22mm MC. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GLPoomobile 958 Posted October 22, 2007 I'm no expert so I'm merely recycling info I have read on here - it's been said plenty of times that the bulkhead has some flex in it which can affect braking performance, i.e. some of the pressure you exert on the pedal can be taken up by the bulkhead instead of the MC and servo doing everything (or something like that ), so since you are going to cut and weld it then maybe you should look into reinforcing this area to minimise flex. Sorry for the bulls*it explanation! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baz 421 Posted October 22, 2007 I'm no expert so I'm merely recycling info I have read on here - it's been said plenty of times that the bulkhead has some flex in it which can affect braking performance, i.e. some of the pressure you exert on the pedal can be taken up by the bulkhead instead of the MC and servo doing everything (or something like that ), so since you are going to cut and weld it then maybe you should look into reinforcing this area to minimise flex. Sorry for the bulls*it explanation! There's an available plate for this very purpose, it's a weld-in jobbie though! Comp cars run them. We run a few of the cars at work without servo assistance as you gain a better pedal feel, but you have to make sure the brakes are in tip-top condition, and best to run fully braided lines too, the less give in the whole system the better, perhaps obviously. This is ok for competition cars, but i really wouldn't advise it on the road as said! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Livelee 0 Posted October 22, 2007 Yes, i'm aware of the flex. With the old engine in there was a good 1/2 inch of movement. If it the standard plate that flexes or the baulkhead around it? We'll try and strenghen it but i'm unsure what to do really. Any advice? Many Thanks Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom_m 0 Posted October 22, 2007 (edited) and best to run fully braided lines too, the less give in the whole system the better, perhaps obviously. fully braided lines are more to do with safety in a crash, not rigidity of the pipes. solid copper lines are better at transmitting the pressure, but can split in an accident and spill flammable brake fluid in the cabin. (if run through the cabin) Edited October 22, 2007 by tom_m Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Livelee 0 Posted October 23, 2007 I've got braided lines replacing the rubber ones. :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Livelee 0 Posted October 24, 2007 Modification in progress. Those that know what the plate looks like will see that it's been cut. We made a jig to hold it all in place while it was being cut and bent. There's now plenty of clearance above the engine. We might just shave a bit off the cam belt cover. I'll fit it today and show a pic later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom_m 0 Posted October 24, 2007 lol is someone welding his arse to the bench while he does that? looks good. has it moved the brake peddle much? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Livelee 0 Posted October 24, 2007 Glitch in the Matrix ;-) The peddles should be ok. If not they can be cut and welded into a decent place. I wasn't overly happy with the location of the brake peddle anyway, plus the massive travel it had due to the 307 calipers wasn't good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom_m 0 Posted October 24, 2007 the 22.2mm mc reduces the peddle travel compared with the standard 19mm mc. but doesn't make it as ridiculously short as with the 23.8mm mc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
