MCH 0 Posted September 20, 2007 Right before I get Grilled I did attempt to use the search feature! But it kept coming up with "IPS Server Error" and wouldnt work. So my question is about getting an MI16 Engine rebuilt and how much it would hurt my back pocket.... Bassically I've been offered a 205 1.6 Gti with an Mi16 conversion (race engine apparently) its Cam'd and is on twin 45's but the bottm end is about to go! (knocking like a bugger!!!) Might have other engine bits done too... its sat on coil-overs and is stripped and caged... The car is cheap because of the engine and they have said a spare (working but standard) Mi engine will be included for an extra £100... How much would it set me back to fix the current engine and can anyone suggest a garage in (or close to) cornwall as it'll be an arse to swap the cam's etc over i imagine... thanks in advance Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,000 Posted September 20, 2007 If it's knocking, then chances are that it's spun a shell and probably knackered the crank and one of the rods. If that's the case, it's pretty much an engine-out job to fix it and that's going to cost mucho dollar at most garages - you could leave the engine in, but since the gearbox has to come out (so you can remove the flywheel to allow the crank to come out) and the head off (to remove the piston/rod) then it's just as easy to remove the whole engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MCH 0 Posted September 20, 2007 So is that the norm then? when the bottom end goes? It sounds like the "big end bearing" would it be cheaper to get the cam's and other bits changed to the other "spare" engine? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,000 Posted September 20, 2007 So is that the norm then? when the bottom end goes? It sounds like the "big end bearing" would it be cheaper to get the cam's and other bits changed to the other "spare" engine? Failed big-ends are unfortunately a bit of a weak point on XU9/XU10 engines, and in particular 1.9 Mi16's that are used on track as they're prone to oil surge. If the other bottom end is in good condition (and you will need to check, as alot of them are now very tired) then it would be easier and cheaper to swap the complete head with cams etc into the other bottom end. I would strongly advise that you replace the big-end shells on the other bottom end as a matter of course, and if you're planning on using it on track, install something like an XU10 baffled sump as a minimum to try and combat oil surge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MCH 0 Posted September 20, 2007 just been told by a mechanic (i hadn't actually seen the car) that it will be fine if the shells were changed... the car might see the track now and then if i buy it but mainly road use, whats the best way to protect the engine from the "oil surge" and bottom end trouble? many thanks for your help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,000 Posted September 20, 2007 I would be very suprised if the crank didn't atleast need a regrind (if it's not scrap) if it's knocking badly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MCH 0 Posted September 20, 2007 I would be very suprised if the crank didn't atleast need a regrind (if it's not scrap) if it's knocking badly. It now appears that it is not knocking as badly as first thought (I have not seen the car as yet). I will be viewing the car tonight. details are apparently: 1.6 Gti With Mi16 Conversion White "E" reg Stripped with buckets, harnesses and rollcage Running uprated Cam's & Twin Webber 45's sat on coil-overs price I've been told is £650 with buckets and harnesses £500 without and an extra £100-150 with spare engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,000 Posted September 20, 2007 Well, the only way is to remove the sump and check the condition of the big-end shells and crank journals Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted September 20, 2007 'Just been told by a mechanic (i hadn't actually seen the car) that it will be fine if the shells were changed' If someone was to say that to me I would never use them for anything, You must at least measure the crank pin's and check the rod to see if it has gone oval But I echo everything Ant;s said Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MCH 0 Posted September 21, 2007 Right... Turns out that the seller exagerated the knocking. It is fine on tickover but when reving at 3000 it has a VERY slight knock (stood infront with the bonnet up) been told by my mate (mechanic also) that at most he reakons it'll need shells and a regrind... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted September 21, 2007 Well i've just had to replace the bottom end and a rod on mi16 after it spun a shell and this is what it cost me. New Crank inc Postage £62 Polish & New Bearings £141 New Rod £10 Head Gasket & Bolts £40 5l 10w40 Oil £12 2l Gearbox Oil £10 5l Anti freeze £10 Sump Sealant £4 Total £289 and that was doing all the work myself Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alastairh 47 Posted September 22, 2007 At least its back on the road Matt! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
